Kerry's right, if you can't test drive it, then $2500 is crazy money. When I bought the 240D it ran down right awful . . . engine mounts completely gone, in desperate need of valve adjustment, leaking fuel system, etc, etc, etc . . . but the PO still let me drive it.

Could be something simple like fuel filters if it is bogging down under load, but who knows. If you're really interested, why don't you ask him if you can slap some new fuel filters on it . . fill the filter with fresh diesel first . . . and then the two of you can take it for a test drive together.

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

Yeah I agree, $2500 is crazy for that car. Maybe $1k at most. That looks like a typical car in pick and pull here, nothing that exciting.

Yes.....anything you can't drive or aren't allowed to drive.....you treat like a parts car when considering what its worth. You can't assume anything...or at least should NOT assume anything.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

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He wasn't trying to hide anything. He didn't want me to drive it to avoid getting stuck out on the highway. In a way his honesty revealed its unreliability.

One of the first things he did was to change the canister fuel filter. But I think the fuel tank needs to be flushed out with the tank fuel filter changed. I guess it's possible to pressure flush the main fuel line from engine to fuel tank. Also, there's a small fuel filter somewhere inline that could be changed. Does anyone know its location, and is this smaller filter identified as the "primary" filter? I should buy a cheap Haynes.

He says the engine has some blow by as white vapor out of oil fill port.

The more I think about it, $500 offer is a tad below the used car market. Crushers and scrap yards are paying $400 here. But so far the advice is good and much appreciated.

Overpaying for this car will take all the fun out of owning it. Especially, if it takes another $5000 to make it reliable. Which is what I'm guessing is worst case scenario.

Attached Thumbnails

 

the photos are making the car look worse. how bad is the rust on the floors? these w115s are known for rust on the rocker panels and on the drivers floor where the e-brake and speedocable run through. a unibody with rusted out floors is worth below the junk value. if theyre paying 400 for cars for scrap. it might be worth that if it is too unreliable to drive. especially a test drive.

most cars i see sold to the pick and pull here drive to the lot on their own and then they drive through the fence. they get 300-600 for most LATE models. not a 40 year old rust bucket.

im not being harsh, but ive been there, done that with pleanty of MBs. its not worth fixing the rust, especially on floors. the floor is the structure on these unibodies. it is the "crumble zone" for the accidents, if you weld/patch or change the structure, you will most likely fold in half in an accident.

as for the poor running, assume the worst. it needs an engine, where are you going to find a 2.2 L4 diesel???? parts for w115s, unless you have the money to buy new, it is impossible to buy parts at the scrap yard. i have seen only 2 w115s at scrap yards. do you work on the cars yourself? or use a mechanic? these cars are difficult to work on yourself. try to find a wiring diagram. if it werent for this site, my car would still be junk since i bought it. i am a shop manager at a garage specializing in mercedes, and i still have a hard time finding the resources.

keep in mind that it will probably cost 3500 to restore it. making the value of the car 5500(nada value). nobody pays nada values. there is a market for these old mercedes, but its mostly SL that get high dollar. many people will pay book for a 40 year old diesel imo. half of the people on here buy their cars cheap and try to keep them running cheap.

are you fixing it to drive as a cheap car? or to restore and sell? there is no margin for profit in restoring an old diesel. belive it or not, this salesman is going to make the most profit selling it to you. it sounds like he put maybe 50 dollars into a tune up and you still cant drive it. there is nothing cheap about restoring an old mercedes.

heres a few photos of my 220d with NO rust, clean interior. which i am having a hard time finding someone to pay more than 1,500 for.

good luck with your decision, i hope you dont over pay

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__________________
95 E320 24k
07 E550 4matic 20k Soon to go
1977 240d 481k
2013 SL 600


Non MBs

02 Ford F250 Lariat 4 Quad Cab 7.3 Diesel 95k
01 Chevy Suburban 249K LT 5.3 V8
88 Saab SPG Convertible 32k
06 Lincoln Mark LT 59k
62 VW Bug
52 Bentley Mark IV
53 GMC half Ton Pickup
08 VW Beetle convertible 2k
07 bmw x5 4.8i 17k
03 bmw x5 4.4i 40k
08 Range Rover S 9K

reading back to your older post, the dealer is not going to move this car at an auction. we sell cars at our garage too. nobody at an auction will pay more than 600 for that, it costs the dealer about 40 to run the car. him reducing the price 300 dollars is ridiculous. offer him 750. and set him straight. unless he will let you drive it, then, at most you should pay 1500.

hes had it since march, he will take any offer you give him.

for 2500 you could buy mine, ship it to where you live and still save money.

__________________
95 E320 24k
07 E550 4matic 20k Soon to go
1977 240d 481k
2013 SL 600


Non MBs

02 Ford F250 Lariat 4 Quad Cab 7.3 Diesel 95k
01 Chevy Suburban 249K LT 5.3 V8
88 Saab SPG Convertible 32k
06 Lincoln Mark LT 59k
62 VW Bug
52 Bentley Mark IV
53 GMC half Ton Pickup
08 VW Beetle convertible 2k
07 bmw x5 4.8i 17k
03 bmw x5 4.4i 40k
08 Range Rover S 9K

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IVIuzzy:

Thanks for your feedback.

Your input helps. I have no interest in what he paid for the car, or how much he has paid up to make it run. Fact is, he is better aware than me of the unknown expense in making it reliable. Those facts are what I'm collecting from him and contributors to this thread. As I said earlier, I'm enjoying the back and forth with the dealer. And the longer I think it through, the less I'm inclined to pay.

The rust on the floor is all the way thru at the center. There is another small vertical rust thru where a dead pedal would be, if the car had one. This is how you described. However, the L & R rockers are 90 percent clean with some non structural rust at two or three corners where rocker meets wheel arch. The body has been Ziebart'ed early in its life, and appears to have done a good job of preserving. Body looks well maintained and garaged most of its life. The paint is original. No sign of collusion damage. The F&B seats are good. Headliner fair. 4 door panels good. Windows good. 2 cracks in dash. Instrument panel filthy. Condition of engine, gearbox, drivetrain unknown. Electric, brakes, suspension, rubber bushings, all old aged. Rubber window, door, trunk, hood seals fair at best. Over time, I could DIY the project. It can't be anymore complex than my air cooled 911. Though not sure it would provide the same satisfaction. Certainly not in driving experience. As you say, no one fixes this model up for quick buck trade. It does have an eye appealing shape.

I know posted fotos makes the car look bad. I appreciate realistic, worse case, outside opinion.

I would immediately walk away from a car with rust like that. Buy one that has lived its life in the Southwest and you will likely get a rust free version. Then ship it to your location. I think the dealer is playing you.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Dealers I have known are happy to get their money back. They will also take a loss and move on if they made a mistake & over paid. I would decide on a price, take cash & either drive out with the title or my cash and not look back.

I have quit buying projects unless my other projects are finished because a couple of drivers have turned (rusted) into parts cars. You have a 911 sucking funds. That MBZ is only slightly more than salvage and can easily become relegated to parts status. If the dealer had other profitable options, he would likely have taken them. Follow the car buyer's 1st rule - don't fall in love and over pay. You'll remember every time you look at the car.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

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i think you make good sense suggesting southwest purchase. But impractical from southwest Ohio. The dealer and I know one another. No one's hoodooing no one. Besides which, the search is a great part of the fun.

Friend of mine from upstate NY found a nice 90's rust free Ford truck in CO. I checked it out for him to confirm condition and he shipped it home. NOt very difficult.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

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In late fall 2002, I bought from Saddle River NJ (last home of Dick Nixon) a 1998 Volvo S90 (twin cam, straight six, rear wheel drive, no rust) with about 72000 miles delivered to Blue Ash, Ohio. It's my beater car with 243K. I know how absentee buying works. Toughest car I've ever driven, by the way.