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#1
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I feel like a moron!
Hey guys,
So I finally got my new alternator on and was feeling pretty good about myself. Then did a diesel purge, and got ready to swap my fuel filters. Changed the inline filter, no problem, then changed the canister filter, and forgot to fill it with fuel. DOH! Then I pumped the primer pump for a while, but I didn't loosen the mount bolt to the canister filter, so it probably filled a bit, but not full. Then I started the engine. It started, ran rough for a bit, then shut down. I then went and read a bit on bleeding fuel, and read on the bleeding procedure involving loosening the injector bolt and cranking the engine. Of course, in my moment of total glory, I misread the procedure and thought you had to loosen the bolts all the way, and loosen them all at once, and then crank the engine. I did the opposite of what I was supposed to do. At this point my battery is getting tired, so I have a friend coming over with a battery charger and for a second set of hands. I wanted to ask about some good bleeding techniques. And to verify I have things right. I've searched a lot online, and found many procedures, but none of them were clear. The cranking method, just to be sure I understand it right: Loosen one injector bolt, just about 1 full turn or so, then have a friend crank the engine till you see fuel spouting out. However, don't crank for too long, as it's hard on the starter. How long is too long?(I read 30sec somewhere, but I feel like that's a long time) Then once you get fuel, close the bolt while they're cranking. Then move on and do the same. You may get it to start after 3 injectors, but it doesn't hurt to do all 5, no? Based on what I've done so far, I didn't mess anything up permanently, did I? That's really my main worry. Thanks guys! |
#2
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It isn't difficult. If car normally starts easily, crack 3 lines at the injectors. Crank engine until fuel comes out. Engine should start and run rough. Tighten lines. Let car run until smooth a normal. Done.
Some times, all it needs is some pumping on the primer. There are likely destructions on youtube.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#3
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#4
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Start the car on wd 40 sprayed into the inlet. Keep it running on wd 40 till the normal fuel supply system catches up. This can save the starter and battery or at least reduce the loading time on them. Also it does not hurt to keep using the primer pump until you hear the relief valve squeek.
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#5
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#6
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Remember, Safety Third! '99 E300 Turbodiesel, '82 300TD, 1996 12V Cummins Turbo, '94 Neoplan - Detroit 6V92TA |
#7
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Good thing I didn't do my method. lol Well at any rate, We hooked up my friends battery charger, and bleed the lines with the cranking method between charges. It's turning kinda slow now, so I'm hoping the battery is worn down again. We're going to let it charge for a bit and try it. Hopefully it starts now. I'll prolly go to the auto parts store tomorrow and swap out my battery since it's still under warranty, just to be safe.
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#8
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You can know if your battery is fully charged by measuring voltage across the battery terminals. Full charge is 12.6V. Volt meter is required tool for car repair. You are essentially urinating off the high side of a sailboat without proper tools. A cheap Harbor Freight meter will suffice. You can take your battery to the parts store for charging and testing in the interim.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#9
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Plenty of good thing have already been said. If you didn't fill the canister with fuel, you can always take it back off and do so . . . it will just save you (and your battery) that much energy. Maybe it's full by now though.
The essential piece is the battery. As you have found out, you can run it into the ground very quickly by cranking. Good thing you have a charger on hand. Get the battery charged up again and keep cranking . . . it will come along sooner or later. It doesn't hurt to have the nose of the car pointed downhill, no use in fighting gravity. And, as has been said, spraying a little WD-40 into the intake while cranking can help get you through. The next time you are running low on fuel, remember how much fun this is and then stop and fuel up!
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles '79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold) '83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer) ______________________________________ "Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman |
#10
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Yeah, you're sure right about that. The battery charger was a lifesaver. We let it charge for a little while and she fired right up. Idled rought for a bit but smoothed out. Took her for a drive and she did great. And I will be sure to never let myself run out of fuel! haha Thanks for all the help guys! Feelin' much better now that she's runnin' again. |
#11
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Personally I have never used diesel purge. Seems like a waste to me.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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Waste of time & $$$. If your fuel /injector system is glaging up, best find out why & fix it.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#13
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Well, the nature of diesel fuel dictates that you should use some form of injector cleaner every now and then. Every thing from gelling to algae, in small amounts can make your engine idle rough. Not cost effective, on the budget or the emotional health, to tear up your fuel system every time you hear a "miss." Oft times, simply adding to the fuel tank with a cleaner will improve things markedly . . . . so why bother to "find out why"? Just clean it first, and consider "finding out" after you've driven a tankful with cleaner. Might feel like new after the tankful.
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1983 300D, the "Avocado" 1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre 1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002 |
#14
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Yeah, Before I did it, I ended up reading a bit on the diesel purge, realized it wasn't really all it was cracked up to be. I already had the can though and it was cheap so I ran it through. I feel better if nothing else. haha I'll probably just get new injector nozzles eventually.
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#15
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Diesel purge will not fix worn nozzles or a totally gunked up system...but there are lots of people who have had great results and restoration of power after using it. It can be used as a purge or as an additive to the fuel...like any other additive that no one else is knocking. It has its application and is inexpensive so if it doesn't work you are not losing much. You own an old Mercedes, if $7 is gonna hurt you, just sell the car now! If you do it as it says you will likely see the purge bottle turn black, which it wouldn't do with normal diesel so it must be doing something, even if the results are not instantly or ever noticed. That said my cars were well maintained and I did not see much improvement when I did it on my 123 or 124.
Kinda like seafoam for gas cars...my friend was quoted $550 for a IAC Valve replacement for rough idle on a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I suggested running a can of $10 "Snake Oil" through it at a chance of saving $550...well worth it even if it didn't work. As it turned out, it did work and he has not had a problem in a month or more.
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1987 300TDT - 195,000 (Original #14 head) 1993 190E 2.3 - 105,000 1981 300D - 250,000 |
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