Idler arm rebuild; grease it? or not?
 

Should I grease the bolt and bushings on the new idler arm rebuild kit?

When I took the old one out, there wasn't any grease on it, and didn't look like there ever was any, so I dunno...

This addition to the front end tightened things up to where I felt some of the Mercedes road-magic come through!

I am not sure but I know grease will deteriorate rubber. How difficult was the job? Did you have to order a kit(s) for each side?

You should use silicone based grease such as Syl-Glide to ease installation of the bushings in the journal. I don't think the bolt or the metal inside the bushing need to be greased. My understanding is that when you tighten down the bolt (torque value is high - don't have the manual here) the bolt and the inside of the bushings move as one, rotating in the inner sleeve of the rubber bushings. Some Syl-Glide on the bolt might keep it from rusting to the inner sleeves and facilitate removal 20 years from now.

Steve

There is only one idler arm on the car, and you just need one kit.

The trickey bit about the job was of course, getting the old one out. Mine were not worn to the point where they would just fall out, so there was much tapping with different size punches etc.

I found that if I put together all my 3/8 drive extensions into one long one, I could feed it down through the engine compartment next to the air cleaner, and through the top of the idler arm holder tube to bash out the bottom bushing.
Much getting up and down.

When I tightened the bolt down, I noticed enough resistance in the steering when driving that the car would not track well, or come all the way back to center.
So I loosened the nut on the bolt and it drives very well. This is why I suspect I should grease this thing.

But I don't like having that nut loose...:eek:

Can anyone else weigh in on this???

I don't think that the bolt is supposed to turn with the idler arm. When I replaced mine and retorqued to the original setting, the arm rotated on the bolt. The arm is not slotted or splined so I think this is how it should be. I snugged it up just enough to take the play out of the arm. I'm guessing a little grease where the arm rubs on the bolt would be OK

My kit had a nylon locking nut so I doubt that it would loosen up. I removed the old bushings by heating the mount until the rubber softened.

No grease. I've done several of them and never used any lubricant at all.

They already come with a coating on them, thats plenty for easing installation.

Yes, you definitely should grease them when new as there is nothing more than a trace on assembly - if you are lucky! Push the sleeve out of the bushing and liberally pack with a lithium based grease filling the gap between the two bushings when fitting. The inner sleeves are clamped together and run on a white metal coated bush that is bonded into the rubber outer bushing. The rubber is lipped around a disc that is part of the center bush that forms a seal and a thrust face - push out from the inside.

NB - The bolt clamps the 2 inner sleeves and idler arm together (120nm), they must not rotate on the bolt. The bearing is INSIDE the bushings.

I agree, just did mine -don't worry! Lightly coat bolt if you wish but this new assembly will outlive you most likely -so, no grease! Do clean housing well before installing to discourage future rust potential and lightly coat walls with grease -good luck, quick easy job!

Sorry my friend but that is absolute nonsense!:). The rubber bushing does not and must not rotate in the housing and the last thing you want to get on the rubber or walls of the sleeve is any type of grease. A water based lubricant such as KY should be used for assembly. The bearing is inside the bushing - push the center sleeve out of an old bushing an see for yourself.

Sorry beagle, would love to add lube to the bearing, but don't see how I'd get the inner tube out... Nothing is coming out of the assembly shown below. Seems like a complete part.

It is well greased inside by appearance and motion, btw.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...4/96784f1c.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...4/e455f400.jpg

Maybe a little late - but verify you get the correct order (and quantity) of parts to go back in.

This link: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/280858-idler-arm-repair-kit-order.html?highlight=idler

Or the FSM or EPC.

Pretty sure this is how it came out...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...4/12369eda.jpg

Note that the washer against the arm is dependent upon arm part number. Mine is 2332:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...4/6cbcbad0.jpg

And the FSM says that this is the second type with stop lug - for which the washer (with a 115 p/n and it is NOT included in the Febi rebuild kit) must be used.

Installed mine only with a tiny bit of sylglide on the outer rubber to help it slide in.

Hope to have a comprehensive DIY tomorrow....

Looking at your first pic - Push hard on the inner bush,while lifting the rubber lip that is moulded around a disc on the outside with a couple of small blunt screwdrivers and the inner sleeve/disc will pop out. I used a hooked piece of wire lift the seal back over the disc on reassembly.

I had to change my bushes when the car was only 3 years old. I lubed my new bushes (they were dry) with Moly high pressure grease and it still has no play now 24 years later! The traces of white greasy substance, outside and inside, is not grease but release agent used to prevent adhesion to the mould - useless as a bearing lube.

Perhaps you could post a pic of the two separated parts to clarify for others?