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  #16  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:15 PM
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the whole upper tensioning system is new, had it replaced a few months ago,

my injectors are new, I may be missing something with my linkages not sure. I'll Try to take a picture, I'm pretty sure it's the chain... I have to decide whether or not to dump more money into the engine or not...
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  #17  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:38 PM
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Before you kiss the engine goodbye, check the vacuum pump.

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  #18  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:41 PM
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New pump too. Had it done this year. Not kissing it good bye.. I just wonder if it's cheaper in the long run to drop a diff engine in there, the shop wants 2K plus to swap the chains out and the guide rails... there's a couple 603's around here that they dont want nearly that for... I dont know... It's something I'll decide later... I'm focusing on the other wagon right now getting it running, I pulled a lower milage 104 from the junk yard but need a couple parts to make it perfect, It's getting put in right now so I have something to drive while I decide what to do
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  #19  
Old 09-28-2011, 05:44 PM
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Things I've done to the current engine,
New vac pump
Delivery valve seals
New injectors/hardline clips too
refreshed the vac system
New fan
new rad
new AC
Front crank seal
Trans lines (it was up front...)
block heater new
New Tensioner system (thanks to the old AC shop...Jerks)
new serp Belt
new battery

There's prolly more... but... I dunno...
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  #20  
Old 09-28-2011, 06:44 PM
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Next oil change, pull the side pan and check for anything that isn't oil.





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  #21  
Old 09-28-2011, 06:46 PM
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thats in 1800 miles. will check it out
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  #22  
Old 09-28-2011, 06:48 PM
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Just because a part is new doesn't mean it's gone bad

If you have the valve cover off and remove the chain tensioner mightbe able to use a fibrescope to inspect the rails. If they're passable you could just roll in a new chain... much cheaper, and it's a factory approved job.

-J
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  #23  
Old 09-28-2011, 08:04 PM
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I have not taken the cover off yet, but at 310, 990 miles are they for sure needing to be done?
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:46 PM
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Ok... Serious Question, I'd add a poll from this question on... but... Well, I cant

Would you have the work done, on a car that has 311,000 miles on it (310 but it's 20 miles from being 311...) I know I cant do this work.. just never took on a project like it and I would have to buy/borrow a heck of a lot of tools...

Or, would you find a low mileage 603, Swap all my good parts to it, Injectors etc that I can and carry on from there?
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2011, 04:55 PM
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Best bet is to drive it to Titusville and let Pierre evaluate that. Then let him do the chain if he thinks that is the problem.
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  #26  
Old 09-29-2011, 05:15 PM
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Not trying to be smug... but I'm glad I only have 150K on mine.

I have never seen a 603 in the yards around here, but if you have access to a couple that you know are in good shape, I would go that route. But only if they had less than 200k on them.

I have not listened to your video but the 603 should be dead smooth, as you know. I'm still impressed with how mine runs.

I would pull your engine and save it for a rainy day. Replace all the wear items(bearings, head, seals, etc) and keep it on ice till you need it again. Or put it in a train

Goodluck
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  #27  
Old 09-29-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonbobshinigin View Post
Best bet is to drive it to Titusville and let Pierre evaluate that. Then let him do the chain if he thinks that is the problem.
Cost prohibitive, titusville is quite a ways from me and this would take a couple days to swap out the chain...
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  #28  
Old 09-29-2011, 05:52 PM
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Do you ask because you might be putting money into an engine that's going to fail some other way or because you're putting money into a vehicle but not increasing its resale value? Either way I think it's time to throw money at a professional assessment.

My plan of attack would be to run the engine with the belt removed to take the ancillaries out of the picture. Then I'd check chain elongation. Actually, I'd check it anyway if it hasn't been done in the last year. While checking the chain, I'd remove the cam sprocket and post pictures for an assessment of wear, and remove the upper guide to make sure it's intact. Then I'd remove the vacuum pump for an inspection. I've reused metal gaskets without introducing leaks. Make sure the front cover of the vacuum pump is on tight. You mentioned a new pump. It has bolts on the front cover, right? Then I'd pull the side pan to look for debris in the sump. None of these tasks requires special tools or skills. The cam sprocket bolt is the only thing I'd torque to spec. The rest is torqued to feel. You'll need a side pan gasket for sure. The valve cover gasket and metal vacuum gasket can be reused. Of course there's the cost or resolving the cause of the noise if you find it.

Another thing to try is loosen each injector line one at a time to see if you can isolate the noise to a cylinder. A lot of questions remain but it acquits the chain. Hmm... Johnnie Cochran could have used that line

That's the extent of what I can do by way of an assessment. If that doesn't reveal the cause of the clatter, off it goes to an indy for his opinion.

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  #29  
Old 09-29-2011, 06:14 PM
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I had it to the indy the other day he says it's the chain. but I'll check the chain stretch, the sound is in the front timing area of the engine, not anywhere in the valve train or injection areas least how it sounds to me. I'll post some pictures saturday or sunday of the stretch and go from there
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  #30  
Old 09-29-2011, 06:16 PM
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Haves compression test done and if all it good, I'd put a chain on and brag about the high mileage :-)
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