Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-25-2011, 03:30 PM
tip tip is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 41
finally took care of my fuel gauge problem...

Well, I had some extra time today so I decided to figure out one of the more annoying things on my '83 300D turbo. The fuel gauge does the usual jumping around, and never shows less than quarter of a tank. Really annoying, especially now that I'm driving it 50 miles a day.

I searched and read all the other posts related to this, and set to work. I decided to start with just cleaning the connector, but it was spotless. So I ended up taking out the whole sender and cleaning it. Thought I would share pictures of the process in hopes that it might help someone else out. Anyway, on with the pics:


removed the first aid kit


top of sender:



not too bad, pins where nice and clean:




since there was no problem with the connection, I decided to remove the sender. Channel locks did the trick:








fuel sender removed:



bottom cap removed:





gently tapped the sender apart:


yummy... I wouldn't be surprised if this has ever been apart




sender unit removed carefully:





gently cleaned with brake clean and a small toothbrush, with extra care cleaning the contacts:







reinstalling:


all set, lubed seal with some fresh diesel before installing:


had to do something about this foam insulation:






I am very happy with the result, fuel gauge works PERFECTLY now! I didn't even know there was a low fuel light! Needle is rock solid and doesn't bounce anymore.

This was a fairly simple job, took about an hour taking my time, being careful. Very impressed with this design, lightyears better than the late model VW senders I'm used to working with.

Check one more thing off of the LONG list of tasks to do on this car.


__________________
'83 300D - 261K | '97 Jetta - 209K | '63 Rivera - 22K | '86 C30 Dually - 105K

WTB: W123 Passenger doors - preferably Brown!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-25-2011, 03:37 PM
LandYaghtLover's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 1,341
Congrats! Wish that would have worked for me. I am going to take mine out AGAIN. I am a gasser, but same issue. Mine never goes below a half-tank.
__________________
1991 560 SEL / 185k miles
1992 750il / 17k miles - project car
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-25-2011, 04:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 417
I took mine apart this morning in the wagon and it was in pieces. All the gunk shown at the bottom of yours explains why my clean inline filter filled up with crud in no time.
__________________
Brad
1981 300TD - daily driver
1963 Chevy II
2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-25-2011, 09:24 PM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
I figure it's recommended, but is it necessary to have an empty or near empty tank of fuel before doing this job?
__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-25-2011, 09:44 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 4,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
I figure it's recommended, but is it necessary to have an empty or near empty tank of fuel before doing this job?
Not really, the lower the fuel the less mess potential there is. If you're quick you can pull it out and get a rag on it before it starts leaking and then make a run to the pan. There is a tiny whole at the bottom on the side of the tube. If you can plug it before it leaks you're golden, as long as the nut on the bottom is tight. If the hole is not plugged you can also pull the tube up until the whole is out of the fuel and let it drain out.
__________________
Andrew
'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-26-2011, 03:55 PM
John Schroader's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 404
I am delighted to read this post. A couple of months ago my fuel gauge quit working. Been pretty busy and have not bothered to check the archives on how to repair it. But ------ I had somehow convinced myself that I would need to remove the entire fuel tank to access the unit. What a relief it is to see that, in the beloved MB tradition, repairs are straightforward. Love this car and surely appreciate this forum.
__________________
John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-01-2011, 11:13 AM
John Schroader's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 404
Just removed the fuel sender and am not certain how to remove the bottom plate (photo #10). Surely don't want to twist anything off that doesn't need twisting. Any good advice is appreciated.
__________________
John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-01-2011, 11:22 AM
TheDon's Avatar
Ghost of Diesels Past
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,285
snap ring pliers or something to fit the two notches. A modified flat headscrew driver does the trick too.

I need to replace my sender in the 240D.

Great pictorial/DIY
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-01-2011, 12:44 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 4,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schroader View Post
Just removed the fuel sender and am not certain how to remove the bottom plate (photo #10). Surely don't want to twist anything off that doesn't need twisting. Any good advice is appreciated.
There is a nut on the bottom with a rubber collar on it. The nut is round but has two notches in it. A pair of needle noise work well or a modified flat head screwdriver as TheDon stated works too.
__________________
Andrew
'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-01-2011, 01:18 PM
John Schroader's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 404
Again, many thanks. Need to upgrade my bifocals, I guess.
__________________
John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-01-2011, 01:19 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 4,845
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schroader View Post
Again, many thanks. Need to upgrade my bifocals, I guess.
It's kind of a silly little nut. I don't know what the rubber collar is for, and why not just a normal nut?
__________________
Andrew
'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-23-2012, 01:57 PM
Meowcedes's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 2
Thank you so much for all these pictures! I work so much better with visuals. I have an '85 300SD I've been slowly fixing up, and this forum has helped me out a lot so far. I need to start posting more feedback, so this is a start!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-23-2012, 02:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 399
I haven't searched, but is the process similar for a W115?

Mine starts jumping around at 1/4 tank. Not always, and it tracks down to empty, but still something on my "to fix" list.

__________________
1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page