|
|
|
#61
|
|||
|
|||
It will be well worth it! Lol... So I figure my problems aren't that major... All things considering I think it want a bad deal. I will eventually do some minor inside repairs.. Maybe brand new carpet... The crack on the dash, the ac of course, maybe even take the caterpillar for a ride if he hasn't metamorphosed into a butterfly yet....
|
#62
|
|||
|
|||
Wasn't* a bad deal...
|
#63
|
||||
|
||||
Ummm have you actually taken the part off of the car yet?
I'm guessing it is broken - but then again wouldn't it be good to check?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#64
|
|||
|
|||
You can verify the pump diaphram by removing the filter top and placing your thumb over the openning. If the failure is enough to raise engine speed, doing so will block the air intake and reduce the speed.
The diaphram is fairly easiliy replaced without removing the pump. We used to do a lot of them.
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#65
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah u are right Army... @Steve... Good call, I just did as you said, it didn't slow the engine down enough to say it did, but it definitely did change the color of the smoke and the shake of the engine. When I plug the oil fill in the injection pump, the smoke turns very very dark, so dark that while I was looking down it actually blocked much of the sunlight and made it look like late evening instead of mid morning. the diesel knock or ping also became much louder and the engine was heavily labored although it still kept plugging away at fast idle... I did hear back from Phil, he is quick, no diaphragm available... Ge said he may be able to get a rebuilt pump though :-( if I ever do find a reasonable diaphragm, remind me to order a dozen!
|
#66
|
||||
|
||||
FYI
Good talking with you on the phone.
We do have one rebuilt IP in our Florida warehouse. $850.00 delivered. There is also a $100.00 core charge deposit required and will be refunded once returned. Part # 616070060188 FYI: These parts are discontinued, but still available, until stock is gone. Diaphragm MB# 0000750607 $84.00 gasket MB# 0010742380 $1.90 seal ring MB# 0000741559 $3.00 Here are some educational links for you. Diesel Injection Pump Timing Device threads Diesel Injection Pump Timing Device threads - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum OM616/617 Injection Pump. How to adjust the Naturally Aspirated Injection Pump. OM616/617 Injection Pump - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum '75 240 D M-style IP Theory - Help! '75 240 D M-style IP Theory - Help! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Fuel injection pump diagrams??? Fuel injection pump diagrams??? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Specialized Indicator for IP Timing Specialized Indicator for IP Timing - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum IP Timing IP Timing - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Setting timing with IP lock tool.... Why won't the plunger set? Setting timing with IP lock tool.... Why won't the plunger set? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Injector pump timing Injector pump timing - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Diesel Timing Chain Link Thread Diesel Timing Chain Thread - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Run away diesel, why does it happen? Run away diesel, why does it happen? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Inline diesel Injection Pumps FYI: Inline diesel Injection Pumps - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Cold weather starting links Cold weather starting links - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Strong nailing Strong nailing - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar and Nailing. LINK THREAD Injector + Heat shield + Nozzle, Prechamber + Collar, and Nailing. LINK THREAD - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Fuel only dribbles from removed injector line when cranking at WOT Fuel only dribbles from removed injector line when cranking at WOT - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum How forcefully will fuel come out of injector lines How forcefully will fuel come out of injector lines - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Drip Timing Threads Drip Timing Threads - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Help: What oil goes into Injector Pump?? Help: What oil goes into Injector Pump?? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI. Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI. - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Brake: Brake: Bad flex disk driving home Bad flex disk driving home - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Bad Flex Disc Bad Flex Disc - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Weekend Wrenching (a great picture of a bad flex disc) Weekend Wrenching - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum The Death of a Flex Disc ... did I kill my 240D? The Death of a Flex Disc ... did I kill my 240D? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum What happens when you ignore that "little" driveline vibration! What happens when you ignore that "little" driveline vibration! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Flex Disc Orientation, safety and durability issue. Flex Disc Orientation, safety and durability issue. - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum If your W123 is shaking down the highway. . . If your W123 is shaking down the highway. . . - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum Correct way to install front driveshaft guibo? (FLEX DISC) Correct way to install front driveshaft guibo? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 10-05-2011 at 12:27 PM. |
#67
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the good conversation and your time this morning Roy! I have faith that I can get her in tip top condition now!
|
#68
|
||||
|
||||
Excellent - post some pictures of your fun and games if you have the time.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#69
|
|||
|
|||
Depending on your circumstances and ability at scrounging etc. Have you considered locating a good newer 616 engine? It may be cheaper overall than persisting with what you have. This is generally dependant on availability in your location and price as well. Plus the ability to apraise a used engine overall.
Percentage of rust in your body if any would be important if this option were to be considered. The earlier model car you have generally drives quite nice compared to the 123 series in my opinion. Again depending where you live and a few factors another better complete newer engine out of a 123 is a plausable option. For me it would be the cheapest option at my geographical location. You have to be willing to change it out yourself of course. The loss of coolant plus some other things may indicate or may not multipal problems. Changing this car over to a four speed manual at the same time might be an option. They are just a better car with a manual box in my opinion. The five cylinder engine will go in as well remember. You would have to locate the parts in the 1-300 dollar area to really make this work well. Another thought was is the newer injection pump design like the 123s use adaptable? There are a lot of them around. A guy might get one out of a pick and pull place cheap enough for example. Although I have no ideal if the original pump can be substituted with one. Last edited by barry123400; 10-05-2011 at 01:28 PM. |
#70
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
...do you know or does anyone else know if you can use the later MW pump instead? Wouldn't that be easiest?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#71
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
What I was really concerned about was the coolant loss as well. I think the oil tower problem with the newer series engine can be worked around If I remember that at least. Even though the transmission shift problem should be established as serious or not as well before going forward. I suspect there should be a mechanical linkage to determine the throttle position somewhere there. Again not sure. I do own a couple of 1972 114 gas coupes. One had the mechanical transmission linkage to the engine disconnected when I brought it and it shifted up far too early. Horizontal rod under the manifold I think I remember. The second one of them has a manual transmission. |
#72
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Anyway a leak down test should help diagnose. The thing is that I get the feeling that the OP is keen - but I don't think he's really keen enough to want to do an engine swap that would involve custom alterations... Ron tell me if I'm wrong! What should we recommend? Leak down test and then if good buy a 85 dollar bit of rubber?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#73
|
||||
|
||||
So if a conversion was possible...
...what would have to be done to change up to a later MW pump?
The biggest difference would be that the later MW pump requires lubrication from the engine. It doesn't have its own little sump. So I guess you've have to put in a newer intermediate shaft and possibly a timing device to match... The drive for the oil pump should remain the same(?) Possibly a newer vacuum pump too? Junk the butterfly valve set up and install a newer throttle linkage and vacuum system... It would be a lot of work. Has anyone done something like this?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#74
|
|||
|
|||
Looking at the videos I'm not convinced there's a headgasket problem. The loss of water could easily be a leak somewhere or blow off due to the lack of an expansion tank. Personally, I would put the money and effort into the diaphragm and re-evaluate when it is done. Does anyone else think the smoke is definitive proof of a headgasket issue?
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#75
|
|||
|
|||
Tapping into the oil filter might give a source of oil for the newer style injection pump. Return could be to the oil pan. Not a lot of flow required.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|