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  #1  
Old 10-09-2011, 11:36 AM
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'98 E300 Turbo Diesel - Window Module/Rough Idle

I recently purchased a '98 E300 TD. Overall the car is pretty clean with 200k on it and I'm happy with the purchase. I sent it to a shop that specializes in MB work to have them check the car over and they replaced some bushing and the front and rear flex plates. They also replaced the window control switch on the console because I had a window that wasn't working. Now one of the windows that was working isn't. They scanned it and tell me that the window control module isn't showing up and that I need to replace it. Reading some of the threads, before I go and replace this module I'm going to check all the grounds and replace the K40. I've also checked all the fuses I can find and they seem to be in good condition. Is there anything else I can check before I move on to the module?

I also also noticed a rough idle once the car gets warm. Cold engine the idle is fine. The shop I went to had me run a fuel additive through a couple of tanks to possibly clean the injectors and so far that hasn't helped. I'm thinking possibly a fuel pump? I know the low sulfur diesel doesn't lubricate the fuel pump as well as they higher sulfur fuel did. I'm open to suggestions!

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  #2  
Old 10-10-2011, 01:45 PM
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Location: Walnut Creek, CA & 1,150 miles S of Key West
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If your K40 relay is bad you ought to have other electrical gremlins. Intermittant shutdowns, etc.

No fuel pump on this engine. Has a mechanical "lift" pump on the side of the IP.

Check your fuel lines for air bubbles, and the "shut off valve" (balck plastic valve on side of IP) and top of the IP (delivery valves) for fuel leaks. All of the above are sealed using orings that deterioate.
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  #3  
Old 10-10-2011, 07:01 PM
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Hi, welcome to the forum. I second the idea of bubbles in the fuel lines. You can see them streaming through the whitish looking plastic fuel lines. If the lines are older, they may be dark brown and you can hold a flashlight behind them to see through.
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  #4  
Old 10-10-2011, 10:10 PM
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I've checked the fuel lines and can't see any bubbles, but when it starts idling rough it does act like it's starved for fuel. The mechanic at the shop I took it to said it had "dropped a cylinder". When I'm driving I don't have any issues as it seems to be smooth. I'll continue checking the fuel line for bubbles or perhaps just get the O rings replaced and eliminate that as a potential cause.

On the issue of the gremlins.....I'm having some issues with my windows and in one case a complete door module isn't showing up when scanned. It was just working fine and then quit. If I pull a few fuses out and re-insert then I get windows back.....for a while. I'm replacing the K40 as soon as it gets here and then I'll trouble shoot the bus under the rear seat as it seems to be the next most likely culprit. So far all of the grounds I have found seem to be good but I'm cleaning them up anyway just to be sure. I was getting a lamp out message even though the lamps were working. I checked all the plugs and found one that wasn't locking tightly and fixed that, haven't seen that message since.

While we had it on the computer it did show some active faults, however I didn't get the codes so I'll have to get it hooked up again and see what it's throwing code wise.
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:28 PM
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While running rough you ought to be able to feel the metal fuel lines and get a good sense of which cyl is running rough or isn't firing (which I find highly doubtful). Once isolated, you can crack the inj line nut at the IP to prevent fuel getting to that cyl and see if RPM's change. That test will show you what a dropped cyl feels and sounds like. If there is no effect, that inj should be moved to another cyl to see if the problem moves with the inj or remains at that cyl. If the problem moves, the inj needs to be rebuilt. If it stays the problem is at that cyl or the IP.

You'll need a special 22mm inj socket, and at least two inj heat sheild crush washers. They are single use only.
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09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2011, 12:07 PM
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What did you pay

I hope you get your problems solved.I have a 98 e300 that I want to sell and was wondering what you payed for yours?
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  #7  
Old 10-15-2011, 11:15 AM
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I replaced about 20 fuses and most of what wasn't working is now working. Interestingly, none of the fuses I replaced showed any visible signs of a problem. I haven't yet checked them with a meter. I got the replacement K40 in and installed that, the old one doesn't appear to have any bad or burnt places in it so I have a spare if needed .

I am still getting the rough idle at times, although it seems to be greatly diminished at this point. It's occurred once since I changed out the fuses. At that time I popped the hood and checked for air bubbles but didn't see any. As it seems to be intermittent I'm thinking something along the lines of fuel delivery. Both the fuel filters were just changed. I've read there is a screen that should be checked so I'll look into that. The absence of air bubbles has me thinking the O rings mentioned before are probably ok?

Overall mileage is good I think at 33.5 mpg (i do a lot of highway driving to and from work).

As for what I paid for the car, I got it for around 7K and it was very clean!
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2011, 09:35 AM
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As an update.......I'm still having issues with what does appear to be a can bus issue. My door modules stop functioning at times, I get "lamp out" messages when all are working and am still getting rough idle at times. What I've done so far....had the car to two different shops. Both ran diagnostics, one told me the glow plug relay was bad. Inspected the relay saw no signs of a problem. Reinstalled relay, reset codes and no more faults for relay. Second shop found a hard fault on overhead controls for curtesy lights and sunroof controls. Pulled the unit from the car and found signs of heat but both bulbs were still functioning. There is an onboard fan enclosed and I'm checking this to make sure it's working as it should and checking the circuit board to make sure it is good. While the unit was out of the car, I started getting "lamp out" messages again which makes me think it's ok (process of elimination). The shops I am dealing with have been reluctant to expose the can bus and check the individual components. Instead they prefer to use their computer programs, which I guess I understand.....but as I have explained to them, it seems to me that the computer programs are going to chase the same ghosts. Does anyone have a "how to" on checking the can bus? I have arrived at the conclusion that I'll have to do it myself.
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  #9  
Old 12-13-2011, 01:21 AM
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Flood salvage car??
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  #10  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:16 AM
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Nope, car was bought new in Winston Salem, NC and I'm the second owner. However, when I checked under the rear seat the foam case that holds the air pump had some mold on the inside where the pump sits. This weekend, I'm going to pull the pump out and see if I can get at the circuit board on the pump to check it. I've also noticed the light under the shifter seems to fade in and out, possibly a short there?

In any event, right now front two door modules don't work and keyless entry/door locks aren't working. Tranny is acting a bit goofy too and I think all of this is downstream from the air pump on the bus system. But I don't have a service manual so I'm not 100% sure.
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2011, 02:53 AM
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Update: I went back and checked the air pump again, pulled the power plugs and reattached. I had a corroded connector on a front park light and cleaned that up, reconnected. Now everything works *scratching head*.

My fuse diagram doesn't show the parking lights being on the same circuit with the door modules, so I'm thinking that perhaps one of the connectors on the pump was loose or is also corroded. I'll have to check that again, though I'm not in any hurry now as I am enjoying having window functions again!

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