Hi,

I am a "new" owner of an 82 300D turbodiesel. I have a bunch of questions which if anyone could help with, Id appreciate to know about:

- The locks work, but the engine doesnt always turn off. The person I bought it from said to look at the fittings on the vacuum hoses, any comments?

- one spot by the front dome light the vinyl(not the headliner) is
coming out, and I can see the underside. whats the best stuff to use to reattach? Im afraid glues may melt the vinyl.

- I plan on going to a dealer to get an overall maintenance done, as it hasnt been driven many miles in the past few years because the guy got two new MB's what should I have done/replaced as good measure?

- Any additives that would be good for the fuel? perhaps to clean the injectors, etc?

-WHat is the best solvent/cleaner to clean the seats and to clean the headliner? all the cars I and my parents have had since I was 5 or so have had cloth seats and headliners, so I want to clean everything up but dont know the best chemical.

-do 82 300D's have PCV valves? I noticed a breather type tube going form the crankcase to the intake, and thats what I figured it was, bt Im not sure if pcv valves were used in those days ,since pollution controls werent as stringent.

-what brand oil, etc do you use? I was thinking of using the whole selection of shell Rotella products. 15w-40 oil, rotella diesel additive, rotella long service premixed coolant.

-Fwhat brand of filters do you use? I went to pep boys and they were out of purolator air filters for the car, but had purolator oil filters. Is it better to use boschor some other? BTW, the oil filter is an odd looking creature, but Im going to post another message about that.

Thanks for all the help. I know this is quite a lengthy message, but I appreciate any help I can get to keep the car running for a long time.

JMH

I'll take a swing at this:

When you go in to get the general look over have them replace the Timing Chain and related stuff if your car has over 150,000 miles. That is probably the most important thing that could count as PM. Another thing to check is the Antifreeze - is it green? If it is flush the system and fill it with the proper amount of MB Antifreeze and water. I've recently discovered part #000-989-10-25, citric acid, works very well at cleaning everything out - search for that part number with the search function and you'll learn more. The MB stuff contains various chemicals that are benificial to your engine and radiator that the green stuff doesn't have.

As far as Oil Filters go: Get OEM oil Filters or at least order them from FastLane. Don't skimp on the oil you use, people here will argue (most likely to the death) over which oil is best but we all agree that it should carry a CH-4 rating. You can get that with Mobil Delvac (either Delvac 1300 or the synthetic - Delvac1) and Chevron Delo. Regular Mobil Synthetic works very well (I use it) but I'll be the first to admit that if you can get Delvac1 put that in.

For Fuel Additives I've used Redline's Diesel Fuel Catylist and Power and Service's Diesel Additive (dunno the name, it comes in a while bottle). Although I prefer the Power and Service stuff Just follow the directions on the bottle.

No your car doesn't have a PCV valve, it's just a PCV tube.

__________________
2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/119226-1982-300d-sale.html#post852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

BTW


From all of us Diesel Fanatics - Welcome to the club, we think you'll enjoy it.

__________________
2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

You've been through alot of the same models. Do you change when they have too much mileage or when you find a better one?

JMH: It's better if you find a local Mercedes specialist rather than the dealer. They charge cheaper, probably do a better job and you can have an intimate dialogue with them about the condition of your car as time goes on. I usually buy nothing but OEM parts (thru the internet) and bring them over to my mechanic to install. I always find that when I try to do the work on my 18 year old car, there's always some screw I can't get off and I spend hours not accomplishing anything. Last week he installed Bikstein shocks all around, mono valve, thermostat, and changed tyhe oil. He told me that the screw on the old shock broke off and had to be drilled out. Good thing I didn't try that at home! Last summer he installed a new air condensor, which seized, then reinstall another one while only charging me the labor for one. He replaced the aux fan for the air, which was faulty. The car rides tight nowadays. Good luck!

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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

I'm just the opposite: I do ALL the work my self. The only time my car sees the mechanic is for diagnosis if it's something really difficult or obscure. While at the Mechanic they might go and adjust something that I've been meaning to adjust and it's easier for them, but that's about it.

__________________
2005 Audi A4 1.8T CVT -Silver/Black "Siegfried"

1982 300D - Silver/Blue "Ralph" -For Sale:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=852260

1989 VW Diesel Jetta Blue/Blue "Bodo" RIP

Unless the car has a history of infrequent oil changes or the timing chain shows to be stretched upon measurement, you do NOT have to replace the timing chain as a preventive maintenance item. It is a double row chain and if the oil is changed frequently, you will probably see a piston fail or the engine just wear out to a point of not having enough compression to run before the timing chain breaks.

Measure the chain for stretch to give you peace of mind.

Good luck,

If your card does not have hydraulic valve lifters, have the valves adjusted. Check the timing of the camshaft with respect to the crankshaft. If more than three degrees late, replace timing chain or install offset woodruff key in camshaft drive gear. Check out the vacuum system with a vacuum gage. You might have a weak vacuum pump.

P E H

Welcome...where y'all live?

Get the Haynes manual for the W123 diesels...also an owners manual if you don't have one.

Re vacuum related run-on: If engine won't shut off, open hood, stand with your toes against the front tire, and look toward the rear/top of the engine. You'll see a red tab marked STOP. Push this to shut off the engine. These vacuum problems are more weird than anything else, and leak is likely around the ac/heater area.

DO find an independent mechanic. There are also numerous aftermarket dealers in all sorts of parts for these cars/ ADSITCO and Performance Products are but two. I'd also join the MB Club of America.

Change oil every 3,000 miles and the car will live forever...congratulations.