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  #1  
Old 10-12-2011, 06:16 PM
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FYI Most Outrageous Dealership Parts Cost

Driver's side foot well air box flap. Over $250 with tax.

This is a 6 inch by 3 inch piece of plastic. Literally a flat square of plastic.

If you remove your air box to do heater core, A/C evaporator, etc. BE CAREFUL!!! IT IS EASY TO BREAK!!!

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1984 300 SD 384,000 Miles
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2011, 06:57 PM
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That is a rediculous and price gouging.

You can pull the whole unit from one in the junk yard for around $60. then you get the blower motor, evaporater and heater core, plus vac pods etc... and you get the experience of pulling the dash.

I haven`t worked on the 126 ac/heat box but have pulled a few 123 units so that is unchartered waters for me.

I saw a plastic welding kit a while back. maybe you could repair the flap?

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2011, 07:20 PM
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You could probably make one out of epoxy and glass in an hour or so.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2011, 07:31 PM
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In todays world. Little suprises me. Plus logically it is going to get worse. As I visualise the future the younger members on site will have to use their common sense. Plus develop abilities beyond what my generation has had to do. The price of not doing this may be severe. It always had some penalty. It is almost a daily thing to see excess costs on many things now.

It really was not like this for the majority of our lives. I am typing this even though our total income at our age is more than adaquate. The wife is sixty five and I am sixty nine. Personally I do not like the way the winds are blowing at all over a reasonable time frame.
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  #5  
Old 10-12-2011, 07:39 PM
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I tried a number of parts places...they all want to sell the entire air box.

It is not worth it for me going to a pick and pull to spend an entire day removing a dashboard and the entire air box for just that one part!!! And as they get old they get brittle so even if I was careful it is possible it could break during the removal. Imagine 7 hours out there and in the final steps the plastic neck shears off!!! Or after a successful removal putting it into my air box and seeing it shear off...

My first attempt at a fix was gluing the old one which had a perfectly clean break. It seemed like it would work but when I was putting the heater core in I forgot to close the legroom doors which put pressure on the glued flap. That broke it. I decided that gluing really wasn't a solution. Going through all this work for things to be marginal doesn't make sense to me.

I've decided the best solution is to buy the right side new (just over $40) and fit it. The trick to doing this is scrubbing all the foam backing off the opposite side and then applying a thin layer of felt tape to the side that seals it. The clearance is slightly off but without the foam backing on the one side I think it will work. The trick is to get that thin felt on there because if something doesn't buffer the door it will bang. If it bangs repeatedly it will probably break the neck or the plastic receiver with time.

Fabricating one would be interesting but I do not have the knowledge or capabilities to do it. I hope this post is useful to someone someday.
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2011, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
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Here's one for you.

The headrest track kit for w123 wagon 2nd row headrests. It's a few pieces of metal and bits. Dealer cost? $350 for each headrest! That means over $1000 for just the mounting bits for stinkin headrests! I got them to quote the headrests for $180 each, even if they don't have any more.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2011, 08:10 PM
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This isn't unique to Mercedes.

Some of the coolant hoses used by VW Vanagons, for example, were $400+ at the dealer before the stock was finally used up. I was also once quoted $80 for a power brake check valve.
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2011, 08:14 PM
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that's bad, but consider the door or ignition tumblers... about 40.00, ya want a glove box tumbler? 299.00
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  #9  
Old 10-12-2011, 08:23 PM
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'07 S550 wiper motor over $300.
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2011, 09:39 PM
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
'07 S550 wiper motor over $300.
That's actually not that bad.....a lot of the high price parts have to do with supply and demand....a part they sell 50 of per year is going to cost a lot more than one they sell 5,000 of....just the logistics/production/storage costs of keeping all those parts in stock costs big $$$
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #11  
Old 10-12-2011, 10:03 PM
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A rear W123 sedan/coupe US bumper is around $980 for the metal bar only. M103 catalytic converters are $1600 IIRC.
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2011, 10:07 PM
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Ghost of Diesels Past
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,285
DMC supposedly ran out of left front fenders and drivers side torsion bars.

LF Fenders were going for 1.5-2k (Mine went for $1900)

and the torsion bar for the drivers side have gone for $2k and still go for around that used(bars have a 30k cycle life [1 cycle is open/close]) but now you can buy new t-bars
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2011, 11:38 PM
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The SLS pump at $1,100. It's painfully simple when seen apart. Not a radical piece of design either, so no argument for R & D costs.

For all I know they are buying them from Citroen. That would go some ways to explaining it....
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

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  #14  
Old 10-13-2011, 09:42 AM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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On plastic parts where a high-stress molded-on shaft has snapped, I often drill through the center of the break to reinforce the plastic with a metal pin before gluing. I'll use one of those little rods left over from a pop-rivet or a piece cut from a nail or wire clothes-hanger - whatever happens to be the right size & thickness to do the job.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2011, 11:04 AM
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I was looking at buying this cherry 1987 420SEL that a guy was selling non-running. He gave me a chance to diagnose it some, chased it to this thing:
******** Parts Catalog

Coulda had the car for $1000, but check out the part cost at $2,300! Didn't even try the dealership at that point.

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