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  #1  
Old 10-14-2011, 04:51 PM
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2.5 liter 602 injector hardlines

Hi i have a 91 300d I just replaced the delivery valve seals and now the pump is as dry as new its nice not to have that layer of fuel covering everything under the hood..however it runs aweful. it starts nice then in a moment or two it starts to clatter and nail like never before. It also misses and stumbles. The idle is really much much louder. When the engine is hot its only a little better.
I am wondering if i got my hard lines mixed up. Mine have been taken apart by the last owner and are a jumble. I reassembled them the way i took them apart (I think ...i am pretty certain) I wanted to double check with you guys..... from the front of the engine the first injector to the first ip pump discharge the second to the second, third to third etc is this right? I have made obvious mistakes before and may have made one again. Any help would be great please and thanks.
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Old 10-14-2011, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallfly View Post
Hi i have a 91 300d I just replaced the delivery valve seals and now the pump is as dry as new its nice not to have that layer of fuel covering everything under the hood..however it runs aweful. it starts nice then in a moment or two it starts to clatter and nail like never before. It also misses and stumbles. The idle is really much much louder. When the engine is hot its only a little better.
I am wondering if i got my hard lines mixed up. Mine have been taken apart by the last owner and are a jumble. I reassembled them the way i took them apart (I think ...i am pretty certain) I wanted to double check with you guys..... from the front of the engine the first injector to the first ip pump discharge the second to the second, third to third etc is this right? I have made obvious mistakes before and may have made one again. Any help would be great please and thanks.
assuming that everything was returned to proper order and tightened down correctly, it is not unusual to experience the noisy rough running you're describing after changing the deliverery valve seals. It is not unusal for it to take a 100+ for things to settle in and even out like it was before doing this job.

Once your certain nothing is functionally of mechanically amiss take the car on a decent say one hour highway speed drive.

Sounds like the hard lines are correct they really only fit one way without some serious modification. Good Luck!
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:14 PM
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I had a similar problem with my 190D. You may already know this, but all the parts in the delivery valve holder need to go back in the same way they came out. I made the mistake of mixing them up one time. I also put one of the parts in upside down after dropping it. The copper washer needs to go back in the proper place as well. Again, I found out the hard way. I failed to put the copper washer back in (lost when I dropped the whole assembly). If it does not clear up after a while of driving, you can find out which DV has the problem by cracking loose the hard line at the injector. The one (or ones) that do not make the engine stumble, have a problem (kinda like pulling a plug wire on a gas engine).
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:07 PM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
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Sounds like you've got it hooked up correctly. It takes a while for the air to get out of the lines about 100 miles or so, maybe 1/2 tank of fuel or so. Go for a long drive and enjoy the scenery then let us know how it's going.

Not sure if you saw this: PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Delivery Valve Seals

It's pretty much the same procedure on the OM602 and it takes a bit for the air to get out and things to settle down.
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:42 PM
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The cylinders are numbered 1 through 5 from the front of the engine. The delivery valves are as well so it's easy to follow each line to the corresponding injector. It's not mixed up like gasser spark plug wires.

Sixto
87 300D
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:52 PM
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there are certain rules to follow when doing DV seals otherwise the engine goes rough.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:26 PM
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^yep

Been there done that. I changed em on a 95 E300 (the one I currently own) one time and messed one up. Seems I pulled the "barrel" (for lack of better terminology) out and when I re-installed it I sheared the pin that positioned it. The barrel does not need to come out. I pulled the IP and took it to the Bosch shop and there was enough pin left to shove it a little further out into the position needed to guide the barrel.

The car idled badly with this item messed up.
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:36 AM
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rough idle conclusion

Thanks to everybody who responded. I adjusted the timing, it was not out by more than 6 degrees, this made things a little smoother. But after about a full tank of fuel things got quiet. I took the car over the mountains for a hard 4 hour run and it ran great and now it is very quiet. It starts and idles smoothly even from cold. I think the car just had to work out things on its own(air in the fuel lines) but I have had injectors and lines off many times before with out air problems.
I did bypass the careful german vacuum controls dictating when the turbo should give me boost by lashing the waste gate shut with a spring. The boost gauge seldom reads over 12 psi so i don't worry about over boost but wow what a difference this made. I got to use the passing lanes going up hills for more than just getting out of the way.
cheers all....
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