Any experts on injectors that can answer this question?
 

I have a 1995 e300d with 230k on it. I was quoted $72 from Phil for a remanufactured Bosch injector. I can also get these rebuilt and also tested to be within 30lbs of each other for $60 from Bosch however I will be without use of my car for about a week.

Should I wait and save $75 and get a tested unit or are the ones ordered online always within spec? To be honest I have heard bad things about the remanufactured injectors ordered online. Thanks

What's wrong with the injector/s that you have now? If simply leaking, put on vise grip and tighten them. Personally, I wouldn't want to be without a car any longer than it would take to tear apart and put back together, and even at that, roomie better be home with the backup car, in case I need to run for parts.

I gave my backup car to my daughter for a few weeks. There is no leaking from the injectors but the engine is nailing so loud its wild. I performed a diesel purger which initially seemed to help a little bit but now its worst then ever. Believe me I dont want to spend over $400 if I dont have to however I dont know what else I can do. Honestly the engine sounds like a bunch of marbles in a tin can when accelerating and this is after I cleaned out the intake manifold!

Check your IP timing first
 

It is cheap and will help to diagnose the problem. Cheers Dan

Would you mind telling me how? I remember doing it on my Boss 302 in the day but never on a diesel.

MY Ip is not leaking and to be honest it seems like alot of work to check the timing? Is it me or can this be done rather quickly? Is the hardest part just getting to the bolts that need loosening?

I dont have the history of this car but it most likely never had the injectors changed after 230,000 miles. Is this normal real world time frame for the regular Joes?

Noisy car
 

If the diesel purger seemed to help a little initially, you probably have a lot of gunk in your fuel system. Might be time to scrub the tank (screen at bottom) to get rid of any algae buildup, change the fuel filters (should be two of them) and put injector cleaner in every tankful of fuel for awhile. Might also want to put 2-stroke motor oil or Lucas in the tank, and a quart of lucas oil stabilizer in the oil and see if the knocking goes away. The constant injector cleaner should eventually scrub out the injectors, if that is the problem.

Oh, I was asking about leaks from the injector body, itself, not the IP.

Good luck. I hope you started with a complete oil and filter change, and check the valve clearances, when you bought the car???

Rebuilts aren't balanced to each other
 

If you buy individual rebuilt injectors they won't be balanced to each other. If you have the time it would be better to get the set rebuilt and balanced.

Thanks guys, I think I will try some cleaning up for the engine and if that does not work go for the shop that will remanufacture and balance the inejectors.

BTW the engine is not knocking, it sounds like a gas engine that requires premium fuel and only got regular. Its pinging and pinging until the cows come home!

Air leaks in the Fuel Supply System can also cause nailing.

However at 230,000 miles on the original Injectors they surly need rebuilding. So I do not think Money would be wasted getting rebuilt Injectors.

My own preference would be to find another ride for the week and have the Injectors rebuilt local. That way if there was is a problem with them there is someone face-to-face to speak to.
That would also avoid having to pay to ship the Cores back.

An easy way to deal with the Timing (there is no Drip Method for your year and model) is to use the Timing Locking/Blocking Pin shown in the pics that goes into the Hole on the side of the IP and lines up on the Blade inside of the Hole.

Balancing
 

When I first bought the "Pumpkin" (now owned by Pierre), I had a leak problem from all the injectors. I went to a junkyard and picked up an additional four from another 240D they had rotting. I lucked out and had access to a buddy's shop, and he had a "Pop Tester." I tested all 8 injectors, put them in order of measured pressure and grabbed the group of 4 closest to each other, and had my "balance." The dead injector we used to braise as an adaptor for the compression tester, leaving me a couple extras for "just in case." I snugged up all of the injectors on the vise grip, then installed them. No more leaks, no more unwanted sounds!!!! The car is still running around south Florida!!! If you have a place to test them (set up pop-tester), you may wish to do that yourself, to see if any are "dead." You can also pick up extras from a junkyard . . . usually cheaply, and put them into the group for testing and get your "balance." Keep one extra for braising as an adaptor for compression testing, and put the extras away for future need. When you take one apart, you will be amazed at how simply they are made. I had to replace the O-rings on all of mine (5 cent parts from O-Ring selection kit, then snugged them up on the vice grip. That car ran like a gas engine with all the power, and just the right gearing on the 4-spd. Only had to adjust one valve, that was off by a couple thousanths and she ran like a charm for the next three years with only oil changes!!!! Was the most reliable car in the winter in Montana, for the whole household!!!!

Do you just grab the injector body with the VG and turn it? How tight should they be? Do you do that in the car or pull the injectors?

look at how the injector is built in this DIY...
I'd think he's recommending holding the body in the head to keep the heat shields from needing replacement, then tightening the upper shell with another wrench...

Thats what I thought he meant