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odd alternator behavior, W123
1983 300D, or a 123.133 with a 617.952
Alternator only works right when key is OFF (red light on brightly) and engine is still running. Off voltage: 12.8 Running voltage, key on with no load, idle: 11.8 Running voltage, key on with no load, rev to 3000 for one minute: 13.2 Running voltage, key off, headlights on, idle: 13.85 Any clues which wire or splice is funky? :confused: |
Inspect the regulator.
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Try redoing the tests after the car has been driven for about 10 minutes, before you shut it down. What was the voltage doing in the 1 minute while revving after idling? Slowly building? Do you have afterglow? How were you able to have the key off & idle? |
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Actually discovered by accident; pump/IP/switch have not been getting along lately. Some stops are instant, some can take up to 10 seconds. Today shut off switch, car didn't stall, volts from crappy 11.8 to normal 13.85, then car stalled after about five seconds, and volts drop to ~12.7. That is a known problem (leaking shutoff in IP), but not something anywhere near the top of my list these days. |
The key off test is meaningless as you have taken away the reference voltage from the reg.
The 11.8 is just low battery after starting. It came up with charge. I dont see anything there to concern me. What problems are you experiencing with the elec system? if any |
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the 12.8 at rest reading tells me the battery is either freshly charged, or brand new. if you did not just take the battery off a charger or a store shelf, the alternator must be charging it.
likely the glow plug relay is still on when you are testing the alternator. start the car, go for a drive, come back, THEN test the alternator voltages. within the first 3 minutes of starting the car, many items in the car could be pulling more amps than the alternator can handle. |
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