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Marketing Strategy, Psychology, and AC Repair
Some of you perhaps have seen the 1991 300D I have for sale. It's a really nice car, with the only obvious downside being that the AC doesn't work. As it's a recent acquisition, I have no idea what the issue is....and neither did the previous owner. It's an R12 system.
My current strategy has been to sell as is and let the new owner worry about the AC. Alternatively, I could get the AC system charged and diagnosed....and perhaps get lucky. But, especially since it's an R12 system, that's more money that I'm putting into the car. I should say that I do not have the skills to address the AC on my own. What would you do if you were in my shoes? What are the different factors that come into play when considering what to fix, what to let go when selling a car? How much more are likely prospective buyers willing to pay for working AC....in New England?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#2
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what else on the car that's a/c related isn't working? is the tach operational? it could be a fuse or just low on charge... a leak of course.
I would prefer a car untouched, and not working to one poorly converted to 134. I vote do not fix, but prepare for the buyers to want a lower price due to the potential for repairs.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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shertex,
no shop will touch the R12, and in my experience, up north, its tough to find a shop that truly knows what its doing with AC. Even if they do, a 134a 'conversion' could be $800-1200...or more spending on whats wrong. Your R12 system could have a single bad o-ring and you'd need to spend all the money on the conversion regardless. I am currently 'in training' in the stickied AC thread and assembling all the AC equipment to convert my 123's back to R12. Perhaps we could meet up and do a little diagnosis as to what is wrong. If the compressor still works I could test charge your system...and if it doesnt have any leaks charge it back with R12 (which no shop will do) and you'll be good to go. If it does have leaks we could pretty quickly tell where the leak is, and then be able to put a $$ amount on how much a fix would be. Working AC is a huge plus IMHO, even up here... dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#4
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Quote:
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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Quote:
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#6
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As mentioned, nobody will touch R-12.
So, you spend over $1K to get the thing running on R-134. You cannot get another $1K for the vehicle if the a/c is working, therefore, it's a bad investment. |
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shertex -
try jumpering the A/C compressor at the low pressure cutoff switch on the receiver drier. (I am familiar with the 123, 124 people please chime in if this is still valid on that chassis). if the compressor clicks on (don't leave it running, just test it for a few seconds to see if it engages), then it's at least worth a coming up here for a test-charge and seeing where (if any) leaks are. I have a halogen leak detector that makes that easy. if it is not leaking, then we can charge it with R12. if the compressor doesn't kick on, verify there is 12V getting to the compressor at the compressor electrical connection. if not 12V is present, then it;s an electrical issue. if 12V is present, then the compressor is probably seized...which would probably put it into the 'its not worth it' category.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
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Quote:
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#9
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Is it these two leads? And is it the wires themselves I jumper or the leads on the switch?
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Climate/83-542.pdf
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
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Many thanks to dieseldan for helping me make some progress. I had erroneously assumed that the system was R12 because of the labeling; in fact, it is R134a. And when I jumped the leads, the compressor worked fine.
So it may be worth my while to get the AC up and running. Never ceases to amaze me how helpful the folks on this forum are!
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#11
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Put a gauge on the low side to see if it's holding a decent charge. If so, it might be a wonky signal to the Klima keeping the compressor from engaging. Throw on an ice cube relay so the buyer knows it's a 'bypassable' control signal issue, not an evaporator or compressor issue. Remove the relay after the buyer sees the system works. If the buyer wants the relay, it's at his/her risk to continue running the compressor without Klima relay protection.
Sixto 87 300D |
#12
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Yes, yes they are..... Good Work DieselDan44....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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....and all i have learned thus far about A/C has been through the generous folks on the forum...
get ready for questions coming your way LM in the A/C thread :-)
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
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