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  #1  
Old 10-21-2011, 07:50 AM
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might be buying this 83 300SD

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum, but am a longtime member of Pelican Parts. I have been offered an 83 300SD for $1000 from a friend. He is the second owner. The car has 211,000 miles. Paint is in great shape. Rust free. Interior is 8/10. The car started on the first turn after sitting in his garage for 6 months (with the help of jumper cables). He is not a "car guy" and had all maintenance done by a merc mechanic. He wanted to list the car at a higher price, but balked when it developed a starting problem. I have since diagnosed this "problem" as a bad alternator, leading to a dead battery. He is looking for a new car and just wants it gone.

I'm test driving the car this weekend. I have done some research, but are there any common items/problem areas I should be looking for that are costly to repair? I do all of my own work and am competent to the level of rebuilding gas engines, so fixing a few items is not an issue. I don't "need" this car, but based on the condition so far, I think the price is looking too good to pass up.

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  #2  
Old 10-21-2011, 07:57 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
lied to for years
 
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Besure that rubber flex disks are not rotten,Trans fluid and filter changed,no torn boots on rear axles.Steering rubbers ok.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:00 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
lied to for years
 
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Then check wheel bearings,of course oil,fuel filters,front end and back end for wear.
I bought mine with 267,000 miles,has 335,000 right now runs perfect.But I checked and replaced fuel line and everything I told you.
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddM300SD View Post
Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum, but am a longtime member of Pelican Parts. I have been offered an 83 300SD for $1000 from a friend. He is the second owner. The car has 211,000 miles. Paint is in great shape. Rust free. Interior is 8/10. The car started on the first turn after sitting in his garage for 6 months (with the help of jumper cables). He is not a "car guy" and had all maintenance done by a merc mechanic. He wanted to list the car at a higher price, but balked when it developed a starting problem. I have since diagnosed this "problem" as a bad alternator, leading to a dead battery. He is looking for a new car and just wants it gone.

I'm test driving the car this weekend. I have done some research, but are there any common items/problem areas I should be looking for that are costly to repair? I do all of my own work and am competent to the level of rebuilding gas engines, so fixing a few items is not an issue. I don't "need" this car, but based on the condition so far, I think the price is looking too good to pass up.
Hey Todd,
With a little luck, when Wayne gets to it, we will all be members of both.
It would be good to see the Pelican Parts post count shown at the top of your posts.
There have been many threads on here about what to look for on a om617. you sound like you have had a good look anyway.
Personally, I would stay away from anything that has been run on anything but diesel, others will disagree though.
Depending on your location, there are probably members who would be happy to cast their eye over it for you.
Make sure the trans doesnt slip on change.
The inside of the front tires will give a good indication of the front suspension.
Climate control can be a bear.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:42 AM
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Where?

Where are you located? Where is the car? I have always found it wise to take a car to a shop of my choosing to do the 110-point inspection and get a full report. Well worth the $65 . . . then I can plan the repair/R & R schedule. The alternator can cost you a mint, not to mention the time it will take to R & R it, unless you can replace the diodes from behind the alternator, while it's still mounted. Most general mechanics cuss up a storm having to R & R MBZ alternators. Some swear the alternators are installed, and the rest of the car is built around it!!!! LOL.
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:47 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
lied to for years
 
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I had my alternator rebuilt for $85.It also might be just the voltage regulator.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2011, 09:50 AM
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a common problem with the SD's especially 83 and up is the belts not being the correct size, leading to slipping under load. the 83 uses a 1000mm MATCHED set of belts, and they have to be in pretty good shape, or at speed the alt will not charge...
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  #8  
Old 10-21-2011, 10:08 PM
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If it looks like advertised and it started and ran pretty well, I do not see how you can go wrong for $1K. The SD is a really great car and you will keep it for years. And it's actually fun to sort out the problems. Such a great car.
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  #9  
Old 10-22-2011, 07:20 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I figure for $1000, if I can identify any issues on the test drive/full inspection, I really can't go wrong. I have never owned a Merc Diesel and am always looking for a challenge. Cosmetically, the car is quite nice. I'll know it's mechanical condition after the test drive. Current owner only drove during spring/summer months. Glow plugs, brakes, tires, belts are all fresh. How often should the timing chain be changed, if at all? The owner has some records, but if I NEED to be aware of a specific service at a specific mileage, that would be good to know.

Todd
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  #10  
Old 10-22-2011, 07:32 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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at around 275 K miles a lot of 617 turbos need a head gasket. Otherwise you are past all the mileages for certain work to be performed. If your description of the car is accurate it seems hard to go wrong at the price. The SD is a lovely car but it does have a lot to maintain on it.

Good luck!
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #11  
Old 10-22-2011, 09:25 AM
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If you step back and look at it (the opportunity, not the car itself) from a distance, I think you have to say to yourself that this is an older car and there will be maintenance issues. Rubber and plastic deteriorate over time and things wear out. You can try to identify what the common maintenance issues will be and try to get more specific based on the service records. This is a smart thing to do.

Having said that, if you like to fix things and like this particular SD, finding one that has been well maintained and without rust for $1,000 is a rare opportunity. If it was me and I liked the car, and it has been serviced as you say, I would not hesitate to buy it, keep it running, fix stuff as needed and enjoy it.

Richard
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:22 PM
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Ugh. The test drive was less than spectacular. Let me clarify that I glanced over the car outside at dusk about a week ago. Today, it was 1:00pm and sunny. First, I got a much better look at the outside of the car. Paint looks pretty good for 25+ years. What I hadn't noticed was some surface rust on the rocker panels just behind the front wheels. You practically have to be on the ground to see it, but the car is not rust free. Next, I open all the doors. Carpet is dirty. Not vacuum it out dirty. Years of use dirty. Here's where it gets good. Car started on charged up battery. As I'm getting out to check for oil leaks, smoke, etc., it stalls -- out of fuel! The gauge showed less than 1/8, but not on E. I drive to get diesel. Come back. Car won't start. Do I need to prime it? Pull out owner's manual. Yes. I Prime it. It finally idles. Mind you, I haven't even left the driveway.

On test drive: vibration in steering from rest (flat spotted tires?) No power, but I'm driving around around a small neighborhood. Car is not insured or registered, so I can't really drive it the way I want. Alternator is charging, so maybe just loose belts. About 2.5 inches of play in the steering while the car is stationary.

For the finale, the brake master cylinder is shot, I think. Or could it be the booster? When I press the pedal, I get 2-3 inches of hissing travel, but no assist. Pedal goes to floor and the car will stop, but not quickly or safely. Feels just like a stalled engine with power brakes. Brake idiot light is on. Brake fluid is at correct level in resevoir. If this was a gas engine, I would say absolutely. How does the MC get vacuum with a diesel engine in a 300SD?

So, exterior is 6.5/10. Interior 6/10. Mechanically, everything I noticed was fixable (by me), but I'm beginning to think my money could be better spent on something else. The engine is smooth, if not gutless. Then again, I barely got above 2500 RPM.

Is this car even worth $1000?

Todd
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  #13  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:27 PM
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Vacuum pump provides the vacuum. None of those issues are substantial. All seem easily fixed. Could have a plugged switchover valve system causing the low power. Still seems like a good deal to me. Interior of my daughter's 84sd was filthy when I bought it. An afternoon of cleaning brought it back to good condition.
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:31 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Vacuum pump provides the vacuum. None of those issues are substantial. All seem easily fixed. Could have a plugged switchover valve system causing the low power. Still seems like a good deal to me. Interior of my daughter's 84sd was filthy when I bought it. An afternoon of cleaning brought it back to good condition.
x2.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #15  
Old 10-22-2011, 08:48 PM
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Coupons

. . . .or you can cut the coupon for the $69 detailing at your local car wash. Pick how you want to use it . . . interior, or exterior. They will often polish the paint on the exterior, interior, they'll wash everything, including steam-cleaning the carpets!!!! That's the easy part. I'd ask the others for the advice on the brakes and vacuum. But definitely something has to be done to the brakes.

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1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
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