|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
what next electric window problems
purrchased 300cd knowing there was a problem with rear left window, finally got after it, pulled everything, tested motor - test sat.
track was bent and needed lude, replaced it and nothing! check rear switch - sat, child safety not the problem, voltmeter - no power coming back to switch, pulled console, no power on rear left switch, further looking shows red/blk wire to right front switch cut and jumper red wire run to the connector and forward under the console... note right front window is working with this jumper wire, i open the connector pull x3 prongs, replaced them, reconnected check window, it's not working, check fuse box, blown fuse, replaced x3, all blown, affraid to replace, until something reasonable changes. by the way, right front was down when "i stopped it" from working. i pulled the door cover put direct power to the motor and the window closed with ease. needless to say i am frastrated. did i replace the prones incorrectly? i don't know and i have no reference, why the severed wire and the rigged jumper? i feel the need to enter the dash console and find this jumper and see what happened to the actual red/blk wire that was cut and why. i know this is lengthy and goes in many directions, but if you've been down similiar paths before... maybe you can help. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
A few members have dealt with the rear windows in the CD, so there should be something here. The rear windows of mine suffer from the dreaded half opening issue and I'll eventually have to deal with them myself.
I would check out that wire first. There has to be a reason the PO did what they did, and I hate mysteries. As to the fuses... double check them. I actually had one for my 300D go but it LOOKED good. The crack in it was so small you could hardly see it. Good luck and post any pictures you take of the job for those of us still facing the repair. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Chase down the jumper wire first then deal with the actual switches. Wheres the other end of the cut wire?
I'd guess that something shorted whent the PO spilled his coffee and this was his way of dealing with it when he broke the wire pulling the switch out rather than removing the console wood to disconnect the switch.
__________________
95 E300D working out the kinks 77 300D, 227k, station car 83 300CD 370k, gone away 89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more 79 VW FI Bus- 145k miles, summer driver 59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k miles 12 VW Jetta- 160k miles |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
If I understand your description, the Rd/Blk wire to the right front was cut. The switch is now connected via some remaining Rd/Blk stub to a new red wire that runs forward into the dash. Does that mean there's a remaining or disconnected Rd/Blk wire that is in the wiring harness and also goes back into the dash?
According to the schematic, power to the left rear comes from a Rd/White wire. It's also off the same fuse as the right front, but via a different wire. Is the Rd/Wh wire intact? If the right front was working okay with the jumper and before you worked on the pins, and afterward the switch blew x3, then I'd guess that you put something back together differently. I won't say "wrong" since I don't know where that red wire is going to. I presume it's Fuse A that was blown. Replaced with a 16A? That's what my wiring diagram shows. Check your right door hinge area and see if the red wire got routed that way to replace a chafed wire. It doesn't seem to match your symptoms, but it's a possibility. |
Bookmarks |
|
|