82 240D Blower motor not working
 

I recently ordered a new fan switch from Phil and got it installed today, turned the key no fan. So I checked the #8 fuse it looked good, pulled it out just to make sure looks good. So I pulled the blower motor out and it looked fine, but just to double check I removed the blower motor from my 83 300D that I know works and still no fan? Is there anything else I can check...I really need that fan working it is cold down here and the 240D is my dependable daily driver.

Thanks in advance

I think you are going to need to get an ohm meter or test light bulb and trace where electricity IS and is NOT going from the battery to your fan...

Are ALL other electrical things on your car working just fine ?

Also, in the mean time ... .you could hard wire ( with appropriate size inline fuse ) your blower with an on off switch in the car... it is probably already pretty cold up there....

Good idea for a quick fix - but what would you suggest? It can't draw much more than an Amp or so... I've just checked vstech's look after your blowers thread and I can't see any power ratings on the blower motor I pulled...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305936-everybody-better-take-care-their-123-blowers.html

As the blower motors for cars with AC are different (says in the thread linked above) do you know if they need more power?

While the fan control switches are in position such that the fan SHOULD turn on, wiggle the key switch and see if it comes on. I've seen a flaky ignition switch cause this trouble before.

Army , I don't know what else you mean.... it seems that the electricity is not getting to the blower and tracing down the route it Should take...and finding the point at which it is not making that Next Step seems like the only logical method... perhaps I did not understand your question...

Sorry I was referring to the in-line fuse quick fix you suggested (I highlighted the text but then lazily didn't remove the other information). What size fuse would be appropriate?

Like you say it would be best to protect any quick fix wiring with a fuse; particularly as in my experience most of my quick fixes become permanent features and then get called "character"!

EDIT - I've changed the quote in my first post to make what I'm on about a bit clearer (hopefully)

I just fixed an 82 240 this morning.
pull the fuse cover, pull the #8 fuse, and look VERY CLOSELY at the holder end at the top, the center will likely have a bit of plastic melted sticking out of it. get a small knife, and clean it out, I bet your blower works again...

Check for power at the #8 fuse. If it's hot, check for power at the switch. If that too is hot, then check at the blower resistors.

As for the quick fix, I just did one yesterday on mine, but I was able to wire it so that the power is routed through the original 16 amp fuse and the original resistor array. My meter measure current up to 10 amps, so I did some checking on the low and middle settings. I got up to 10 amps starting current with the setting I decided to make semi-permanent, which then drops to about 8. Consider yourself lucky you aren't dealing with ACCIII like I am.

Wow that draws way more power than I thought - thanks for the info Skippy.

be sure you are checking the springy side of the fuse, not the riveted side...

10 Amps doesn't surprise me, but I didn't know for sure and was afraid to doubt the 1 Amp statement for fear of attack.

The rule on all these kinds of things for the fuse would be exactly the same fuse rating which it uses in the car.... Never ever bigger.....

I always size the wire for the coolest spec based on the fuse rating.
so for a 16A fuse, I'd run minimum #12 wire this is overkill for a motor load, as the startup amps is why the fuse is large... unless there is a bind...

Wow...thanks for all the replies I appreciate it. I will check the fuse holder first then check it to see if it is hot. I will check that first and report back. Thanks again everyone!

Sure

But I was thinking that if fuse number 8 was say 16 amps what else is on that "circuit"?

I could be wrong - I don't have the wiring diagram to hand (or the will to check!) - but if other things are also protected by the same fuse a lower fuse rating for the blower motor "on its own temporarily rigged wire" would be appropriate wouldn't it?

Exactly my thoughts... I've seen this way more than once on W123 and W126 cars, both gas and Diesel.

I had one more quick thought...do these cars use a Rheostat? I know in my 72 El-Camino one went bad, just wondering if the 240D has one?

Thanks again

Nope. Three (I think) resistors. Your switch controls how many of them current has to go through to get to the blower. In your application I believe they are located inside the heater box. You do have manual climate control, right?

Concentrate on the fuse holder first of all. Take a test light to ground from first one side of the fuseholder. Not the fuse. Than to the other with the fuse installed and blower turned to full. Ignition key has to be in the run position for these tests. .. Or bridge the two fuseholder terminals with the blower in the high on position and fuse installed as well. Use a test meter or test light. Your choice. This circuit is a fairly heavy current draw as the blower motors get older sometimes. The original fuseholder may no longer be up to the job. Many people in the past have substituted a pigtail arrangement type fuseholder to circumvent it. Just saying check it out very carefully.

When the blower switch is positioned in the highest flow position my guess is the voltage reduction device or speed enabler is basically bypassed. That is in the engine comparment I believe.

On a two forty this is a pretty simple ciruit of the speed switch that you have replaced, The motor, the resistance voltage reduction device and the fuse and fuseholder and last but not least the connection through the keyswitch that is either direct or activates a relay.

I will have to leave it up to others to mention if there is a relay trigggered by the ignition a switch in the run position. Otherwise that 10 plus amps is going to be seen by the key switch itself. The chances of connection failure other than at the fuseholder are small. In a way that fuseholder from the factory can be problamatic. It is the only fuseholder in that electrical system known to be marginal in design as the blowers get older. Failure in that area is known.

So I finally got a chance to go out and look at the #8 fuse and there is no power to it. So I used a jumper wire from the #10 fuse and the fan fired right up. Any idea's where to go from here?

Thanks

I would wire in a pigail fuseholder from the largest wire to the fusepanel that shuts off and on with the keyswitch. The other end of the pigtail fuse holder to the higher end of that old fuseholder.

Throw a spare glass fuse or spade fuse in the glove compartment that fits it as well.

You may have bypassed another item in the blower motor chain with your picking up your voltage source from another supply source though. At least keep this in mind. Could be the keyswitch or relay controlled by it although I do not have a wiring diagram to tell.

Have you wiggled the ignition switch yet?

Good Luck ID240d ! I'm hoping you get it fixed. I'm praying for ya! Mine stopped working but it was the fan brushes. Completely different issue but i understand what a bummer it is when it does not work and how frustrating it is trying to find it!

did the switch wiggle have no effect?

Thanks again for the replies....so I am a little confused about the ignition switch wiggle, should I just wiggle the key in the ignition or pull the panel under the steering wheel and wiggle the ignition assembly behind the dash..sorry for the dumb question just want to make sure it try it the right way.

Thanks again for the help!

Wiggling the key I beleive is what they mean.

Yes, wiggle the key. These switches get flaky. With the fan switches in position to run the fan, and the switch in the run position, wiggle the switch.

well after pulling my entire center console (almost) i decided to jump the fuse that looks fine, it wasn't. #8

Ill either need to jumper it, or repair the contact, either way thanks. and now the console can go back together, .......

...low priority because "...if it ain't 'broke'..." On my 82 240D (340K) ... only the highest, of the 3, positions doesn't work--high, that is. It acts as if I have low, medium and medium....highest switch position just keeps fan running at the middle / #2 of 3, positions. ....not something I can't live with. ...but curious.