finally got both the 240's working... what do you recommend for maint?? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

wilburtual · #1 11-04-2011, 12:03 AM

i think after having 2 240D's for over a year, i finally have both of them running and on the road at the SAME TIME! LOL!
so... i wanted to get you guys' recommendations for what maintenance to do next.. both cars are W123 240Ds (1977 & 1981) and had many previous owners, and i dont have any service records... so who knows when anything has been done..! i've done oil changes every 3k since ive had them, but not really any other routine stuff, only things that needed fixin to get them running.

where do i start in order to give them some love and keep them going to 300k?
i am a starving musician.. so i guess if you could list your recommends in the order of importance, as i will have to slowly check them off the list (for each car). im more interested in engine / car longevity than perks or a super smooth ride,etc..

valve adjustment? trans fluid and filter change? coolant drain/fill, etc??

leathermang · #2 11-04-2011, 12:10 AM

Absolutely the list you have made and the valve adjustment is critical since that can allow a valve to burn very fast if it gets to the ' too tight' stage.....

katja · #3 11-04-2011, 12:32 AM

How about a good workout?

Mercedes Benz 240D DIESEL POWER.MOD - YouTube

Not really good for your clutch....but hey, never underestimate the power of a 2.4L diesel!

Oh, and I second the valve adjustment, and that's a good reminder that mine is due for one.

sethza · #4 11-04-2011, 12:39 AM

I would always make sure the coolant in the car is a nice green color...not just for 123s but for any car thats 30+ years old. The reason I ended up replacing my engine was because it always running 10 degrees or more over the normal operating temp. I just didn't trust it. This was from years of rusty water being used as coolant, after a while the coolant passages rusted permanently beyond a state that allows proper heat transfer... I've heard that an addition one millimeter of rust to the inside of the engine is equivalent to one whole inch of iron in terms of how well the heat can travel out of the block and into the coolant. That's my rant on coolant, because I feel like it's often so overlooked. I know I ignored it, and paid the price.

Also, on any diesel that's been sitting make sure the fuel tank is clean. Its common when diesel sits for algae to form. I had a huge problem with this as it left me stranded *several* times. I must have replaced the fuel filter about 50 times in 3 years. In fact, from now on anytime I buy a used car with a diesel engine I will remove the tank and have it cleaned as a precaution. Keep this in mind!

Lastly, try to replace the two o-rings that are on the shaft that goes down the middle of your oil filter when you do your oil change. These get brittle when a car sits, and it will negatively effect your oil pressure and how long it takes for your oil pressure to build on start-up. Most oil filters don't come with these little o-rings, so I feel like most people neglect this. I just buy the rings in bulk. You don't get to the 500k club by letting your car run with no oil pressure for 15 seconds every morning!

I work at a used book store, so I know what it's like maintaining a vintage car on a shoe string budget. Always have a couple hundred in the savings account...

Seth

toomany MBZ · #5 11-04-2011, 12:45 AM

Use the orange anti freeze, not the green stuff.

Orange is aluminum friendly, green is not, your radiator is aluminum.

sethza · #6 11-04-2011, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Use the orange anti freeze, not the green stuff.

Orange is aluminum friendly, green is not, your radiator is aluminum.

What brand? You don't mean the gm stuff do you? I've seen the effects of Dexcool, its not as good in the long haul.

Travis_k · #7 11-04-2011, 01:14 AM

Volkswagen G12 coolant would be fine if you get the cooling system clean enough before you put it in. As long as there is no contamination G12 is fine in pretty much any engine. Subaru coolant is also good. The GM stuff is terrible, but there are lots of other long life coolants that are fine.

Codifex Maximus · #8 11-04-2011, 01:21 AM

I'd say:
Winter's comin' on - make sure your glow plugs are in good condition.
Check your axle assemblies for wear of boots.
Check flex disks, tranny mount, differential mount, motor mounts.
Check fuel delivery plastic hoses for degradation at tank and up front. Fuel filters and primer pump.
Check vacuum pump pressure hose and all smaller hoses for wear.
Check brake pads and rotors for wear.
Have front end inspected and aligned.
Make sure the exhaust hangers are not about to give out.

wilburtual · #9 11-04-2011, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by katja

How about a good workout?

Mercedes Benz 240D DIESEL POWER.MOD - YouTube

Not really good for your clutch....but hey, never underestimate the power of a 2.4L diesel!

LOL!! holy cow, good to know my options.. !! i guess that means if 1 240 breaks down i use the other as a tow truck

toomany MBZ · #10 11-04-2011, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sethza

What brand? You don't mean the gm stuff do you? I've seen the effects of Dexcool, its not as good in the long haul.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/zerexg05.pdf

wilburtual · #11 11-04-2011, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Codifex Maximus

I'd say:

Make sure the exhaust hangers are not about to give out.

i learned this the other day when my GF calls me on the phone and says she "hears a noise" while driving... i told her to pull over til i could get to where she was,, and yup, the whole exhaust was draggin on the ground..! are those standard parts i can get online here,etc? i improvised some cable to get it hung for now, but i should really hang it right before i forget about it...

i just changed glow plugs! changed all fuel hoses in front and at tank! changed fuel filters, and primer pumps! did brake pads, a rotor and a bad caliper!

i think both of them have fairly green looking coolant, i dont have the space/tools to do a flush of any sort, but i could prob at least drain and fill,-i have no idea how clean the system is or isnt.. i am interested to hear what others think about the coolant type/brand debate!

piccolovic · #12 11-04-2011, 11:16 PM

The non-colored stuff sold at NAPA??? Or for the Chryslers?

vstech · #13 11-05-2011, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piccolovic

The non-colored stuff sold at NAPA??? Or for the Chryslers?

Yup.
ZEREX G-05 at NAPA is the preferred stuff to use in our cars.

NEVER USE ANYTHING WITH generic ORANGE COOLANT IN ANY CAR!!! orange is dex-cool... and unless you are SUPREMELY meticulous in removing every single trace of any debris and chemical from the cooling system, you will have a nice thick layer of rubber in all your coolant passages, and a huge layer of it in the block...

IF you are starting with a freshly boiled block, and NEW coolant excangers... it's possible to use for 3-5 years, then you have to boil it out again...

G-05 has NONE of these problems, and works properly with the aluminum radiators, and the plastic tanks!

wilburtual · #14 11-05-2011, 03:49 PM

got it, zerex G-05 it is! how much coolant will my 240 take if i just pull the radiator plug and let it drain? is there a better way to drain? i dont have the space or tools to do any sort of flush, so its gotta just be a bucket/drain type deal. -- which is better than nothing right?
do i have to do anything to bleed the system after i drain and fill?

toomany MBZ · #15 11-05-2011, 05:06 PM

So much for the orange stuff.

The attachment is from the service manual.

I'm betting you have the wonderfully simplistic manual HVAC system, so some of that won't be necessary.