Just Bought An '82 240D 4 Speed! Got questions - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 11-09-2011, 02:42 PM

ahseville! you should have stopped by on your way back to SC... I'd have helped you diagnose plenty!
actually, since you are not far away, you might wanna schedule a trip over here, and lets get a few spare parts for you, and get some tuning done on the car!

barry123400 · #17 11-09-2011, 05:07 PM

Take Vstech's gratious offer. Find out in advance from other members if he enjoys a beer or whatever. I only wish I had access to his current pile of parts.

vstech · #18 11-09-2011, 06:21 PM

I only wish I enjoyed beer... sadly I do not.
I'm a candy/soda kind of gent.
however, I"LL PROVIDE WHATEVER BEVERAGES ANYBODY WANTS for assistance in my yard!!!
parts are easy for me! just come get them!

oilslick · #19 11-10-2011, 10:27 AM

Absolutely nothing this morning! No click, no nothin'. Everything lights up inthe cluster as it should but it's as though there is no power going to the starter now. I WILL GET THIS FIGURED OUT!

oilslick · #20 11-10-2011, 03:17 PM

I know that there is a neutral safety switch on an auto tranny but is there any such device on a manual tranny. Is there any electrical device that would keep the car from starting if it is in gear, even with the clutch depressed? The reason I asl is because it would not do anything this morning but a few minutes ago I went to the garage to try again and I turned the switch on and off multiple times. On one of those times the blower which had been inoperable came to life but the switch still would not engage the starter. I move the shifter around a little and presto! The starter engaged. Maybe my car just thinks that it is an automatic.

barry123400 · #21 11-10-2011, 04:59 PM

Well sounds like you will have to deal with the electrical portion of the key switch one way or another. Or something in that area. Take a meter or test light.

Go between a ground and the small terminal on the stater. Have someone put the key into the start position. No voltage present is a pretty good indicator of that electrical portion of your key switch is out.

You can run a temporary wire from that small terminal and when you want to start just touch the positive terminal of the battery. The car is so old there are no interlocks to prevent starting on the manual cars.

In the old days we just bridged the small terminal on our starters to the large hot post on the starter with a screwdriver to power up the starter solinoid.

I would carefully inspect the keyswitch area just in case the last owner messed up something. You may want to consider cleaning up the major grounds and battery terminals first. These cars are old and connections can corrode. Wiggling the shift lever for example may have completed a ground for a moment. Again there are just no interlocks on a 240d.

oilslick · #22 11-10-2011, 06:59 PM

Does anyone have a picture of the proper routing for the heater hoses (under the hood) for a w123 240D? If you do I would appreciate it if you could post it for me. Thanks!

oilslick · #23 11-11-2011, 09:42 PM

All i can figure is that the previous owner got a faulty new ignition switch. I bought a new switch and tumbler with two keys and now she starts everytime and the blower works great again. Someone had bypassed the heater core and I feared the worst. I thought I was going to be looking at a core replacemnet BUT it turns out that the core is good but the valve under the hood is leaking. It's not leaking a gallon a minute but a drip every now and then. The cable for the driver's side is sticky and I tried to free it up but I was not too successful. I am loving this 240D!!!

Now, if I can get this project moving along.

toomany MBZ · #24 11-11-2011, 10:31 PM

The shaded parts are not applicable to your car.

oilslick · #25 11-12-2011, 11:56 AM

When I went to bed last night I was so thrilled that I would be able to ride in a heated car this morning. I jumped in the benz this morning with my son and we headed out. The benz started without effort! I switched on the blower a few miles down the road and NOTHING!!! It worked fine last night before I went to bed and now this morning it won't work. Oh well.

barry123400 · #26 11-12-2011, 01:30 PM

Try to establish if twelve volts is getting to the motor. Many heater motors themselves become intermittent.

oilslick · #27 11-13-2011, 03:55 PM

Now the intermittent starter problem is back. For some reason this car keeps burning up ignition switches. I am completely at a loss with electrical issues. I don't know an ohm from a nome. A volt from a jolt. An amp from a cramp. I will, however, check all the ground points that I can find and eliminate that. Oh well.

engatwork · #28 11-13-2011, 03:58 PM

There should be a heavy cable without insulation bolted between the engine and the frame. Make sure it is secure with good connections at both ends.

Good to see you back

.

oilslick · #29 11-13-2011, 04:31 PM

I couldn't stay away from these cars. Everytime I would see one I would miss mine. I've had quite a collection of these cars over the last few years. I had a great connection for used parts and I was buying these cars right and left. My parts connection is still there but the stream of diesels coming into the scrap yard has slowed down to a trickle.

The engine in this 240d is solid! The body is solid and the paint is very good and original. I am lost on electrical matters. Would a bad ground cause an ignition switch to burn out? The blower stopped working first and now the starter engages about 2 seconds after the key has been turned to the start position. When I replaced the switch on Friday
everything worked great but by the next morning the blower had ceased to function. There was no power at all going to the fuse in the fuse block. I jumpered that with an inline 25 amp fuse so now I have the blower working. Today after church I went to start the engine and there was a 2 second delay between turning the key and the starter
actually engaging. Gotta get this figured out. I want it to work as it should.

Kevin

ROLLGUY · #30 11-14-2011, 12:13 AM

This might be a long shot, but try isolating the starter solenoid. Remove the start wire from the solenoid, and have a helper turn the ign sw to start while you have your meter hooked up to the wire. You should have battery voltage immediately when the key is turned to start. If the delay is still there, it would be a faulty ign sw (again). If the delay is not there, your solenoid could be the problem.