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  #16  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
keep in mind when using a crowsfoot wrench with a torque spec.
the head extends past the center of the wrench, so some calculation is needed, or you must find the point in the rotation where it's closest to neutral offset.
If the Crow Foot Wrench extend beyond the length of the Torque Wrench you need to calculate the Troque.
If the Crow Foot Wrench is to the side of the Wrench at a 90 dgree angle and stays at that angle (see the thumb nail pic) you do not need to calculate the Torque.

If you are going to use the Crow Foot in a manner that extends the length of the wrench.
Torque Wrench Crowfoot Extension Calculator

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Drive shaft support bearing?-torque-90-degree.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 11-09-2011 at 03:36 PM.
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:29 PM
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cool, I knew there would be an angle to work. are you sure it's 90? I was thinking something like 120...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:30 PM
vstech's Avatar
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anyway, on a crowsfoot socket, the increase is negligible so 90 is likely perfect.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2011, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
anyway, on a crowsfoot socket, the increase is negligible so 90 is likely perfect.
I looked up that info about the time I did the U-joint replacement.

I did not record in my notes where I got the info on if the wrench is 90 degrees to the Torque Wrench it does not change the Torque. But, I read it someplace and was surprised to see that was the case.
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2011, 02:21 PM
1984 300SD
 
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Phil, if you intend to replace the center bearing only just slide the rear shaft with bearing support out of the spline. (after careful marking).
Remove the two rear most exhaust donuts, leave the rest alone. Probably rusted tight, why make a big job out of this. Four little bolts to drop the diff, five minutes.
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  #21  
Old 11-11-2011, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by The Gears View Post
Phil, if you intend to replace the center bearing only just slide the rear shaft with bearing support out of the spline. (after careful marking).
Remove the two rear most exhaust donuts, leave the rest alone. Probably rusted tight, why make a big job out of this. Four little bolts to drop the diff, five minutes.
I may be doing that since I don't have a covered area to work and it's on a gravel driveway and the rains have started. I may do this the quickest way I can and then go back next spring when it's nicer out to replace the flex discs etc.
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2011, 03:43 PM
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Had my car at the shop today to change center bearing. Just removing the 2 donuts on the center mufflers gave enough room to remove the driveshaft shield. Nothing else went well ( another thread about that ).

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