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#16
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You are right. At least with Kentucky windage, you know you are correcting in the proper direction.
What was the crankshaft angle when you installed the IP with the index marks aligned? |
#17
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Does your IP have the port on the side? If so, it would be an easy test to see if the timing is even close. You don't need the timing tool to check it. In the past, I just removed the cap and inserted a screwdriver in to feel the tab on the governor. You can also use a light and mirror to see if the tab is centered in the hole. Once you see it centered, you can view the crank pulley to see how far it is off. I have felt your pain! I had a bad pump on my 190, but the shop fixed everything BUT the governor. I timed it, but it would not run. After pulling it for the third time (oil filter stand as well), the IP shop said the governor was not right. They fixed it, and it timed correctly and the engine ran fine. Your pump being new should not have that problem.
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#18
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He said 24 degrees BTDC (my book says 24-26 degrees)
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#19
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Yes, I had 24 degrees on the balancing disc and the first two cam lobes were pointing upish.
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#20
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I didn't know new inline IP's were available? Is it NOS and how long has it been sitting on the shelf? What did it cost?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#21
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I'm not sure. I called Phil and told him What I needed. If I remember correctly a shop in Atlanta built the IP and mailed it to me. I sent them my old one as a core. I believe the cost was around 900 dollars.
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#22
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Diesel911 was correct..........I was mistaken. The timing was retarded...........and now it's even more retarded. If you have the IP lock tool, set it up and rotate the IP toward the engine until you get 15ATDC. As TF suggests, the "Kentucky windage" approach is not worth the effort. |
#23
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Quote:
I seemed to have it damned close by drip timing the first time. If I understand correctly, I would use the IP lock tool as follows; -set the engine to 15 degrees ATDC (which direction would the first two cam lobes be facing to confirm that I have 15 degrees on the correct stroke?) -Align the wide notch on the pump drive with the mark on the pump. Fit the collar onto the driver and insert the pump so that the mark on the pump is aligned with the mark on the engine block -install the lock tool into the side of the pump -swivel pump toward engine until it locks in position and torque down the pumps mounting bolts -remove the lock tool -replace all the other **** that had to be removed to do this and happily motor off Does that sound about rit or have I ****ed something up? |
#24
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But no, you took the moral high road and said something sarcastic and useless. May you live in interesting times. |
#25
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If you were close the first time...........why bother pulling the IP again? Just set the engine to 15ATDC on the power stroke (cam lobes will be pointing roughly upward..........not perfectly upward, but you can see the tips). Install the lock tool...........and carefully rotate the IP toward the engine until you feel the notch in the tool engage the tang inside the IP. Remember, you're looking for a very slight engagement..........you can absolutely rotate the IP right through the notch. If you don't feel it, remove the lock tool and take a strong light and a mirror and peer up into the port. See if you can see the tang. It will be obvious. If you cannot get the tang to engage the notch, you're looking for the tang to be directly in the middle of the port. That's "perfect" timing. If you confirm proper timing and the thing still smokes like hell, the IP needs to be returned............obviously it isn't "new". |
#26
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He's probably right............ I should know better, too. |
#27
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Funny aside... I order a whole new set of fuel injector lines from Phil (yes I arranged them in the proper order) By the time I have this IP timed those new fuel line nuts are going to be stripped. Lol. Actually though, northern tool sells a stubby 17mm open end wrench that, when ground a bit on one side fits the fuel line nuts beautifully without stripping the adjacent line nuts. |
#28
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During your experiments, I would encourage you to minimize the torque on those nuts...........both at the IP and the injector. |
#29
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I'm didn't mean to confer stripping them through brute force, but rather the close quarters of the nuts and your open end wrench. I can't somehow help but feel hurt by your use of the term "experiments." have I made some great social gaffe on here, or offended people and am unaware of it? If I have I'm deeply sorry, I merely made a post asking for help after I installed an injection pump and had unexpected consequences. I don't like to think of my time in the shop as "experimenting" though. Surely I can't be the only one who feels this way?
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#30
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LOL...........no intention of offense regarding "experiments". Use any term you prefer to signify work in progress without reaching a final conclusion just yet. I think of my time as "experiments" when I cannot seem to find a solution. I've been experimenting with the climate control system on the SD for years and I cannot get the damn thing to perform like it was originally manufactured. I recently changed the cluster on the SD because the plastic was a bit damaged in one place. Installed the new cluster and the outside temperature gauge failed to work. Take the gauge out and try the gauge in the pins by itself and it works fine............repeat..........it doesn't work in the cluster. I don't want to tell you how many "experiments" I went through to finally realize that the factory has a blank plastic plate inserted into clusters that do not use the outside temperature gauge so you don't peer into a dark cavity. This prevents visibility of the actual LCD readout. |
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