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  #1  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:00 PM
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Oil pan plug stuck... adhesive looking residue around it...

I went to change the oil for the first time since buying my 85 300d. Could not get the oil plug out of the pan. I nearly stripped it with a 12 point socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet (after trying a regular box wrench of course)..
I then proceeded to crank at it with a 6 point on a small socket wrench.. no go. At this point i noticed some yellowish residue around the plug.
I'm afraid to remove it now because i suspect the threads are stripped and the damn thing is glued in.
Any ideas?

I'm going to give the shop i bought it from a call... i bought the car "as is" but this is some shade tree **** that goes a bit beyond "as is" The window sticker said that they did the last oil change.

The oil pan doesn't look too hard to do, just that this is a former chicago car, so lets of potentially rusted in bolts hold it on.
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  #2  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:03 PM
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Wow, thats pretty bad. I am glad the sticker says they changed the oil last, they have little recourse.
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  #3  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky44 View Post
I went to change the oil for the first time since buying my 85 300d. Could not get the oil plug out of the pan. I nearly stripped it with a 12 point socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet (after trying a regular box wrench of course)..
I then proceeded to crank at it with a 6 point on a small socket wrench.. no go. At this point i noticed some yellowish residue around the plug.
I'm afraid to remove it now because i suspect the threads are stripped and the damn thing is glued in.
Any ideas?

I'm going to give the shop i bought it from a call... i bought the car "as is" but this is some shade tree **** that goes a bit beyond "as is" The window sticker said that they did the last oil change.

The oil pan doesn't look too hard to do, just that this is a former chicago car, so lets of potentially rusted in bolts hold it on.
Best use propane torch to loosen & if thread is stripped, have a heli coil installed. Not a job to do yourself if you havent done before.
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  #4  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:12 PM
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what should i be looking at for labor on a new oil pan?
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  #5  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:16 PM
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I know nothing of your particular car, but on my 560 SEL the oil pan replacement was very easy and a new pan from Pelican Parts was not much. Just make sure to get a new gasket. I am not sure if it is the "reusable" type, but I never reuse them. Also I dont think my pan came with a new plug bolt incase you decide to DIY this project. If your car is like mine, it was as easy to change as a wheel.
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  #6  
Old 11-19-2011, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
I know nothing of your particular car, but on my 560 SEL the oil pan replacement was very easy and a new pan from Pelican Parts was not much. Just make sure to get a new gasket. I am not sure if it is the "reusable" type, but I never reuse them. Also I dont think my pan came with a new plug bolt incase you decide to DIY this project. If your car is like mine, it was as easy to change as a wheel.
It doesn't look bad, but i'm concerned that the rusty old allen screws are going to give me trouble.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sky44 View Post
It doesn't look bad, but i'm concerned that the rusty old allen screws are going to give me trouble.
I can not be certain, but I bet they are stainless. I had no issues with mine. Also being a Chicago car that lived in the salt flats.

But if you take it to a shop, I would think no more than one hour labor. It sure took less than an hour for me. Drain oil: 10 minutes, remove bolts: 10 minutes, clean matting surface: 10 minutes, install new pan, 10 min, refill oil, 5 min.

So I would think under an hour. But again that is based on my pan. Not sure if you have stuff in the way of your bolts, etc. Such as the cross member.
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Old 11-19-2011, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
I can not be certain, but I bet they are stainless. I had no issues with mine. Also being a Chicago car that lived in the salt flats.

But if you take it to a shop, I would think no more than one hour labor. It sure took less than an hour for me. Drain oil: 10 minutes, remove bolts: 10 minutes, clean matting surface: 10 minutes, install new pan, 10 min, refill oil, 5 min.

So I would think under an hour. But again that is based on my pan. Not sure if you have stuff in the way of your bolts, etc. Such as the cross member.
looks pretty much free and clear. I'll be honest i hate working under cars. I might give it a whirl though.. it'll be extra fun since i can't drain the oil first
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky44 View Post
looks pretty much free and clear. I'll be honest i hate working under cars. I might give it a whirl though.. it'll be extra fun since i can't drain the oil first
I would try to siphon it. 8 quarts of BLACK oil is quite a mess maker.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:48 PM
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After siphoning the oil, it would be safer to replace the pan.

A W123 oil pan is cheap when purchased new under Febi brand (MB sells them for $80+). Make sure you get a new gasket if the drain plug proves too difficult to remove and oil pan replacement is necessary. Clean ALL the allen bolt heads that fasten the pan to the engine before removing them or you risk stripping them as well.

Make sure you also wrap the metal transmission cooler lines with some sort of rubber before fastening them back to the oil pan during reinstallation.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:48 PM
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yup, a good topsider can be made with a vacuum pump, and a garden sprayer... a mityvac could do it, but it'd take a LOT of pumps...
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2011, 01:41 AM
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is there anything available at autozone or something in the way of some kind of temporary emergency oil drain plug ? I thought i saw rubber type plug there once.

I gotta pick my brother up at the airport wed and give him the whole colorado experience, so i really need my car not "bricked" in my driveway with no oil in it. Buut.. i have 3200 miles on some sorta unknown crap oil and i'd really like to get it changed. There's also some chance that these threads are not effed i suppose....

i could give it a light kiss with an acetylene torch and throw an impact gun on it at work monday... but i'd like a plan-b if i can't get the plug back in.
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2011, 01:46 AM
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um...lots of lube places use that yellow crap. It isnt like lock tight, i hate to have to suggest you are trying to turn it the wrong direction. And if you are indeed going the right direction you simply need to give the ratchet a good wack and it will come lose.
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:27 AM
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If that's the case then wait until afterwards. 3200 miles is not that many miles on the oil. My 300SD manual says to go to 5k miles from the factory.
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  #15  
Old 11-20-2011, 03:30 AM
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Or......just use a topsider to change your oil from here on out. Simple, no mess.....drain plug never has to be removed again.
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