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#16
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I feel like we're running in circles. The issue would be impossible to identify using the drip OR strobe method unless the valve cover is pulled and the cam orientation is taken into account. I will be doing that today. Thanks.
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#17
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Quote:
In other words, it would be very easy to see whether the #1 piston is approaching TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke. |
#18
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Excellent, thanks. I wonder if too much oil would spray around while running it and shining the strobe on the cam through the oil cap.
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#19
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No, give it a shot.
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#20
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Very cool. I'll report back when I have more info.
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#21
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I wonder how accurate and how sensitive the piezo piclup is on the pulse adapter? As a test, can you try different tightness on the pickup clamp and see if it changes the reading?
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#22
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I have before. The tightness doesn't affect the timing of the pulse, it just affect how much current is generated from the pickup. It is totally accurate and much faster and easier to use than the drip method. I have used the drip method a few times before and it works alright, it's just a pain.
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#23
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Can you tell me more about the piezo clamp instrument you're using?
Like make / model / number... Is it a simple strobe light that pulses when the pressure sensor feels the pipe running to the injector flex? So you just shine it on the pointer at the crank?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#24
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Hang about
I've just found this thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/217823-timing-diesel-pulse-adapter-stobo-light-2.html I guess you've got the snap on tool? It doesn't seem to be available anymore. As for the MAG et18dpm shown in a picture in the thread above I can't find a price for that either... But an English company called Gunson do an adapter for about 125 GBP if you shop around - despite the rrp of 170.24! Gunson | 77089 | Diesel Adaptor For Timing Lights I've never been really impressed with Gunson though - anyone out there with experience?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#25
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Yes, I have the Snap-On pulse adapter. It transforms the pulse of the fuel line into a typical ignition signal (large diameter loop on device is the "ignition" wire). You can then use a typical gasser stroboscopic timing light. I love it and have been using it for quite a while on various engines. FWIW, with my unit I find 14° to be a bit too advance. 10-12° BTDC seem better to me. This is even more true for theVW IDI diesels.
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#26
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Quote:
Why do you think 10-12 degrees BTDC is better? Is it quieter /smoother running? Better mpg / less soot?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#27
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The piezo pickup generates the pulse when the injector starts to spray and the line begins to relax so it is the actual start of injection. The drip tube method shows when fuel begins being pushed into the metal line. Seems reasonable that it takes 10° of revolution to generate the pressure necessary to pop the injectors. I prefer 10°-12° because, IMO, 14° is too clattery.
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#28
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So here's the update on the car. I used the strobe on the cam through the oil filler cap and it was timed correctly. I was doubtful that 4-6° of timing would make it run so poorly, but figured I'd advance it some just to see. I loosened the four pump mounting bolts, pulled the injector lines and rotated the pump to advance it. I had to bend the lines a bit to get them to mate back up with the pump. During that time, fuel was draining from the metal lines onto the pump. After I got the lines bent into position, I tightened them down and yet fuel was still dripping a bit from the pump. I didn't think the primer pump cleared the metal lines, but figured I'd give it a go. When I pumped the primer pump, a stream of fuel squirted out from around the pump inlet banjo. I tightened it down. The car seems to run a lot better. I think the combination of somewhat retarded timing, sucking air into the pump and losing prime from sitting may well be what has been causing the car to start and run so poorly.
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#29
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I wonder if the injector line actually flexes? Does it actually expand and contract? Hard to imagine a steel line with thick walls expanding and contracting. I am going to put a digital vernier caliper on it and see if it can measure the flex.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#30
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That is a lot like trying to measure three nanoseconds using a stopwatch.
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