help! oil change runied my '80 300D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kerry · #16 11-20-2011, 05:55 PM

I can't understand what the guy did apart from removing the power steering fluid. Why did he put transmission fluid (pink fluid) in the transmission? Did he drain the transmission? Did he drain the oil? Did he replace the oil filter. What did you ask him to do? What does the receipt say he did? How much did it cost? What fluids are listed on the receipt?

Stevo · #17 11-20-2011, 07:34 PM

These are the kind of stories that make me appreciate the fact that I take responsibility for doing the work on my own car.

Beware the Quickie Lube joints

vstech · #18 11-20-2011, 07:43 PM

actually, it's SUPER easy to change your own oil, but just a 13mm combo wrench will make it slightly more difficult.

I'd recommend at a minimum a 3/8" drive ratchet, and a 6" extension with a good 6 point 13mm socket. DO NOT USE CHEAPO TOOLS HERE!!!

the ratchet and extension make it childs play to pull the two 13mm nuts off the oil filter lid. then remove the extension and pull the drain plug. no need to even lift the car. plenty of room to get under there with it sitting on the tires.

slide the drain pan under the car, loosen slightly the drain plug, and put the drain pan under the plug. get up, and loosen the nuts from the oil filter lid, and lift the lid slightly and set it on the studs. then go back under the car, and remove the drain bolt by hand. (rubber gloves help here!)

on my cars, the heater hose is really close to the filter lid, so I move it out of the way, but if the hose is old, this could break it. your call.
then when the oil stops dripping, I pull the filter lid all the way out, and remove the filter and deposit it into a ziplock bag and dispose of it.

most filters come with a bag of copper washers... use just the one that fits over the drain bolt. the others are for other cars, not yours.

the filter should also come with a large 4" o-ring. it goes around the filter lid. so you have to REMOVE the old o-ring!!!!

then notice the end of the shaft on the filter lid, there are two rubber grooves with o-rings in them, yours are likely hardened to plastic by now. chip them out and install new ones. I use a 6mm/10mm/2mm for the lower ring, and a 7mm/11mm/2mm upper ring. some just use two 6mm's your call there. but have the o-rings on hand BEFORE you drain your oil, or you will not be able to drive the car!!!

anyway, after you've put the o-rings on the shaft, and the lid, set the new filter into the canister and then set the shaft into the filter, and rotate the lid to fit over the studs. gently set the lid down, and look carefully to see if the large o-ring stayed on the lid. fix it if it didn't or you will have a HUGE oil leak when you start your car.

thread the 13mm nuts onto the lid by hand and tighten them only until they bottom out. DO NOT OVERTOURQE the nuts!!! just snug is fine.

put the drain plug back in and tighten it the same.

refill the oil with your choice of xW40 Cxx Rated oil, I start with 7 quarts, then fire up the motor until oil pressure is solid, then I get out and look for leaks around the filter then hit the kill button and let the oil settle down. then add until the level is centered on the dipstick.
done.

Skippy · #19 11-20-2011, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

actually, it's SUPER easy to change your own oil, but just a 13mm combo wrench will make it slightly more difficult.

I just use the one wrench and sometimes a small screwdriver to get the filter housing o-ring off. YMMV

Quote:

gently set the lid down, and look carefully to see if the large o-ring stayed on the lid. fix it if it didn't or you will have a HUGE oil leak when you start your car.

I had that huge oil leak once

Quote:

I start with 7 quarts, then fire up the motor until oil pressure is solid, then I get out and look for leaks around the filter then hit the kill button and let the oil settle down. then add until the level is centered on the dipstick.
done.

I've learned from experience that on mine two gallons will put it exactly to the full mark. Mine is turboed however and I believe it has a slightly larger oil capacity than the non-turbo models. Again, YMMV.

leathermang · #20 11-20-2011, 08:44 PM

One does not have to change one's own oil or fluids...
but what would a Haynes manual cost ? Like $10-15 ?
You could at least tell the idiot at a place like that what you wanted done and show them where the lids are....
When I bought my $2000 1981 123 Wagon in 1999 I immediately spent $250 on manuals ... they were available from the dealer new at that time... about $50 each....
And I read them.... giving me ten years of fun correcting misinformation posted by forum members who insist on writing fiction...
LOL

NEWTO1980300D · #21 11-22-2011, 10:23 AM

is all 15w40 oil for diesel? My poor car (Joleen) is being towed to the mechanic's now to be fixed by someone who has worked on diesel Benzs before. I read everything I could so far and just want to make sure I know everything I should going in there.

leathermang · #22 11-22-2011, 10:36 AM

NO....................................
You must find oil which is designated DIESEL....
lots of threads on that..
Lots of common brands have them .... I use DELO myself....

Zacharias · #23 11-22-2011, 10:47 AM

I am tempted to say that the idiot who did that should not be working in any capacity in the auto repair industry, except possibly changing tires (assuming he is bright enough not to amputate any limbs while operating a tire machine).

BUT, consider this: for a while my friend who runs a shop took in guys from the local one-or two-year auto mechanics course at the local adult education centre, for work experience placements.

He actually had two guys who couldn't consistently remember which way to turn the wrench to loosen fasteners. He had to make them memorize and recite "lefty loosey, rightey tightey" before turning the wrenches....

I wish I was making that up.

Anyway someone mentioned brakes. I hope to god all this guy does is oil changes. At least that limits the scope of the impact of his complete lack of common sense.

NEWTO1980300D · #24 11-22-2011, 10:48 AM

DAMN IT!!! i think the "mechanic" put in the wrong oil!!!!!!!! so it will say diesel on the label. Got it! Thank you for clearing that up!!

NEWTO1980300D · #25 11-22-2011, 10:50 AM

Quote:

"Women get the last word in every argument. Anything a man says after that is the beginning of a new argument." ~Author Unknown

love this by the way, i needed to laugh after my weekend

Zacharias · #26 11-22-2011, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEWTO1980300D

DAMN IT!!! i think the "mechanic" put in the wrong oil!!!!!!!! so it will say diesel on the label. Got it! Thank you for clearing that up!!

Do you recall what the label said, exactly? Or just the brand name?

leathermang · #27 11-22-2011, 10:51 AM

I don't actually read the label on oil .... or not lately.....
I think somewhere on it there will be a ' spec ' which will designate it as Diesel Rated....I get Delo 400 myself and know that is diesel rated.... there are others...
but I just know a couple of brands and their ' name' which I know are diesel rated and get them....

Air&Road · #28 11-22-2011, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Find the return line back to the PS pump (the device that the moron filled with oil).

Disconnect the return line...............should be just a hose clamp holding it on.

Get a one gallon bucket.

Put the end of the hose in the bucket.

Purchase one gallon of automatic transmission fluid.

Get another person.

Open the gallon container of transmission fluid and get ready to pour it in the reservoir (the device that the moron filled with oil).

Get the second person to start the engine and slowly turn the steering from lock to lock.

Pour like mad to keep fluid in the reservoir as the pump tries to blow it all out the return line.

Hopefully, one gallon will be sufficient to eliminate most of the engine oil. What residual remains won't be a problem. Be sure that the second person moves the wheel from lock to lock several times during this process. It is easier on the system if the vehicle is raised off the wheels and supported via the body.

Very good description of the procedure, but if you use ATF, use Type A. Dexron or Mercon is not good for the seals in the pump. The other acceptable fluid is regualar Power Steering Fluid from the parts store. If you can find Type A ATF it will be cheaper than Power Steering Fluid.

NEWTO1980300D · #29 11-22-2011, 10:59 AM

Quote:

"Do you recall what the label said, exactly? Or just the brand name?"

just that it was 15w40 i called him up just now and he didn't even apologize he said, "Oh, that's ****ed up. Every Mercedes has the oil filter in the front."

Zacharias · #30 11-22-2011, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NEWTO1980300D

just that it was 15w40 i called him up just now and he didn't even apologize he said, "Oh, that's ****ed up. Every Mercedes has the oil filter in the front."

Genius. Pure genius.

Born with the touch for client relations too.