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  #46  
Old 11-22-2011, 05:11 PM
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My Bad...you are correct... we used to heat food near the engine on our Hueys... not here in the states of course....LOL

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  #47  
Old 11-22-2011, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
my mom's 06 c 320 wagon had the oil filter up front... upside down spin on protruding through the engine cover.
Auh, then that explains it, the guy thought he had one of those 06 c 320s
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  #48  
Old 11-22-2011, 06:06 PM
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Just to be absolutely sure he didn't mess with your oil filter, I would open up the oil filter canister and make sure he didn't put one of those small pancake power steering filters in there. Sounds like he was just messing with your power steering pump, but I'm concerned that you said the oil was thick and black.

It should be clear and his putting regular oil in there should not have made it all that black. So not sure what combination of stuff he was messing with, but the power steering pump gets the flat filter and clear power steering fluid, and the rear canister should get a tall filter and that is the one where you should be seeing thick black oil.
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  #49  
Old 11-22-2011, 07:58 PM
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Could a Philly member meet up with this kid and help him out?
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  #50  
Old 11-22-2011, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Daman858 View Post
Could a Philly member meet up with this kid and help him out?
Her. Not that it matters much, the request is still valid.
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  #51  
Old 11-22-2011, 11:01 PM
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I think I'll move all this PS fluid discussion to it's own thread.
I'd like to hear more about the pro's and cons of PS fluid, but I don't wanna detract from the original topic here....
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  #52  
Old 11-22-2011, 11:49 PM
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Wrong Fluids

Actually, putting oil in the PS reservoir just makes the steering harder, but I've seen it done lots on the big trucks!!!! Same tight steering required, especially when not moving. The fact that it was black when he first opened it up, however, worries me. It should not be that dirty/burned. Good time to flush the power steering system and put in fresh "Power Steering Fluid," or with ATF, as mentioned earlier. Regular oil has too high a thickness, resulting in that hard jerky steering . . . not to mention how big your biceps will develop, if you leave that in. Generally, oil does not hurt the power steering pumps, and many truck/fleet owners use oil in their truck PS systems when they are getting old and starting to leak a tad bit.

Actually, it is highly unlikely that you would find 15-40 that is not rated for diesel at a place that does oil changes, or the local auto parts store. I've yet to see non-rated 15-40. I believe 15-40 is a designation, only for diesel rated oil. However, I would worry about any of the "pink" fluid winding up in the engine. In my motor pool, we used ATF to clean out engines, right before we drained the oil. If left in, it can eat the seals, as it has the highest amount of detergent of any of the oil based fluids.

If I weren't worried about cross contamination from ATF in the oil, I would say, change the oil filter, and top off, and be done with the oil portion, until your next oil change.. Obviously, he didn't change the oil filter, if he didn't know where it goes. Also, he probably used Shell Rotella . . . the new bulk oil for diesels. Personally, I hate Rotella, . . . it's a dirty oil that will leave a lot of gunk/grime and metal shavings clinging to the inside walls of your engine (not enough detergent). Especially if you have long climbs on hills, or drive a lot in the summer heat with the AC on, I would use Delo 400 . . . a thick oil that doesn't thin out under heat like other oils do. Castrol Tection is known for suspending dirt from the engine walls into the oil, so the filter will remove it. Castrol is a very good choice. Mobil Delvac is also a good blended oil, with an excellent reputation. You can buy all of these oils at Auto Zone, or Advance Auto in 1 gal. jugs. I have also used the generic 15-40 under the Walmart label (Tech Line), which is the same oil that you find at Tractor Supply. It is a good cheap alternative to the brand names. Now there's also "Blue" by Valvoline . . . so, you have many choices. You may also want to put Lucas oil stabilzer in it if it will be working in hot conditions. Personally, I would not want to switch back and forth from conventional diesel 15-40 to Synthetic and back every season change. Not a good idea. Find what you like, and stick with it.

And, welcome to the work of MBZ diesels . . . hope you're enjoying the ride.
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  #53  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daman858 View Post
Could a Philly member meet up with this kid and help him out?
Thanks Yak. I would really appreciate it and I promise I don't bite. I also catch on pretty fast so it wouldn't take long. Everyone on here has been really great by the way.
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  #54  
Old 11-23-2011, 07:29 PM
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Thanks Yak. I would really appreciate it and I promise I don't bite. I also catch on pretty fast so it wouldn't take long. Everyone on here has been really great by the way.
I took the liberty of starting a "request for help in Philly" thread.

Help in Philly area? '80 300D advice?

If it's already been towed, is there an update?

Did you (or the new mechanic) get the correct oil and ATF for the P/S pump? If not, Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF says it meets Mercedes 236.2 specs for the P/S pump; and you should be able to find a diesel grade oil pretty easy.

Here's a quick guide for how to read the doughnut on the label. You want a "C" oil: http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/MOTOR_OIL_GUIDE_2010_120210.pdf

15W-40 may be a bit thick for the winter, 10W-40 or maybe 10W-30 may be better. (These are from the engine manual, but opinions run high on oil here, so don't be surprised if there are other opinions).
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  #55  
Old 11-23-2011, 10:18 PM
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you know that dumbass thought the fuel filter was the oil filter until diesel started pouring out on his hands. If I was a fly on the wall for that "oil change" I would have been laughing my ass off
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  #56  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
I took the liberty of starting a "request for help in Philly" thread.

Help in Philly area? '80 300D advice?

If it's already been towed, is there an update?

Did you (or the new mechanic) get the correct oil and ATF for the P/S pump? If not, Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF says it meets Mercedes 236.2 specs for the P/S pump; and you should be able to find a diesel grade oil pretty easy.
SHE'S ALL FIXED!!!!! The mechanic I took her to fixed her all up. he flushed her out and refilled with all new fluids. It doesn't jump anymore when she shifts gears either! I printed out everything on the thread and highlighted information. Then I printed out the booklet that Yak sent to me and I handed that to the mechanic, as well. She's running great! Now i just have to get the trailing arm fixed and she'll be perfect!
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  #57  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:16 PM
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That is great...
So the lesson learned is that YOU need to know what needs to be done so you can ' guide' any others who are going to touch your car...?
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  #58  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:45 PM
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yes, or I can just do it myself. I was going to ask someone to put on my windshield wipers but I think I can pull that off.
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  #59  
Old 11-25-2011, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
no... what's f**** up is a "mechanic" did not know that the oil filter does not have a belt drive on it...

in the 4 decades I've worked on cars, I've NEVER assumed where the filter was...

(I've also never mistaken a powersteering pump for an oil filter...)
Actually, my old Fiat had a centrifugal oil filter inside the crank pulley! So it had a belt on it, but looked nothing like a PS pump. Yeah, that mechanic was a putz, good that it ended well.
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  #60  
Old 11-25-2011, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWTO1980300D View Post
SHE'S ALL FIXED!!!!! The mechanic I took her to fixed her all up. he flushed her out and refilled with all new fluids. It doesn't jump anymore when she shifts gears either! I printed out everything on the thread and highlighted information. Then I printed out the booklet that Yak sent to me and I handed that to the mechanic, as well. She's running great! Now i just have to get the trailing arm fixed and she'll be perfect!

Cool. I presume the new mechanic changed/adjusted the tranny fluid level for the shifting problem. If you've got his repair summary, maybe worth taking to the old shop and getting some money back.

Trailing arm? Time for a new thread. Take pics, describe symptoms. Use the Buy Parts link and the Resources link.

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

Maybe you can do a DIY article on changing the wipers!

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