W123 can't fix leaking steering box?
 

My searches have revealed that the wise choice is to replace rather than reseal a leaking steering box. Before I throw in the towel I wanted to check and see if you all (ok, mostly all) agree that I should by a new (used) box?

Where's it leaking from?

The adjusting screw?

I'd reseal if you're not in a rush

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303379-what-feeling-will-properly-adjusted-w123-w116-w126-power-steering-box.html

Looks like the very bottom, I think that's called the pitman arm.

I may be leaking there, maybe not. I had a leak that I never pin-pointed. I am not a fan of leak sealant additives, but I tried the Lucas stuff and have been leak free for months now. But I plan on rebuilding/replacing the box anyway. I don'd consider leak sealants a long term solution or fix.

If by "re-sealing" you mean adding a stop-leak type additive, then yes replacing might be better since I don't think it'd be that successful.

I'd follow up on Army's advice to make sure it's not the adjusting screw/locknut seal, then see if you can locate the leak - maybe it's on the hose or hose fitting and running down to the bottom.

If you get to the point where it's one of the seals, you can re-seal the steering box with a kit. It's a moderate to difficult DIY, but possible and the kit isn't costly. There was also a recent thread where someone asked about the business model of rebuilding and reselling boxes, so if you're in the market maybe research that thread.

Tip: if the steering box is removed, triple-check the condition of your oil filter housing gasket (evidence of oil on the back of the engine and the tranny). Replacing that gasket with the steering box removed would be a heckuva lot easier. I ended up doing mine in the reverse order. The extra room to work would have been appreciated.

I guess my terminology was incorrect, I was referring to physically replacing seals. I don't have any faith in the miracle-in-a-bottle.?

I will make sure I've identified the correct leak path.

Its great to see your skepticism with snake oil !!!

Just replacing seals can work for a while if the bush/bearing next to it is not too loose. The important thing for you to keep in mind is the condition of the worm gear. Once it is worn in the straight ahead position, best get another box.

It seems that the box has quite a bit of play in it, not sure if it's the worm gear or not.

Many years ago I accidentally added brake fluid to my power steering that was leaking and the leak disappeared for the couple of years I owned the car. That was some dumb luck there.

If you are careful and follow the instructions and warning in the archives..
you can tighten up the adjustment nut and determine if you have too much play..

sometimes proper snake oils can cause swelling of seals enough to help for long enough to search for your replacement part...although Trans-X stopped my latest lincoln front seal leak of one quart per 75 miles and is still holding... but in general they are usually short term...

Do find and follow the warnings....like turning the screw a very very small amount and test before going further....and be sure to mark the lock nut with paint.... we are talking life and death if the steering will not follow your suggestions applied at the steering wheel...

As to seal replacement.... I have the chassis manuals ( both ) for the 123... what one starts getting into on some of these parts is the special tools required to do it right...
Like available only to dealers....

member Martureo bought tools to reseal several, and he sells them!

$100!?!? Excellent! That's a done deal, thank you!

The steering gearbox has a drain plug at the bottom, if you clean it up the bolt should be marked/painted to identify it as a special bolt (not used to put together the gearbox). Make sure the plug is tight before you confirm it needs to be rebuilt/resealed.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5301/5...a084e768_z.jpg

Now there's the challenge! Make your own versions of the FSM tools - see post#2

No challenge Army.
Many do it all the time.
The other day we needed to undo a 36mm nut off a shaft. Needed a ring spanner as there was an Allen hole in the end of the shaft to hold it with.
Couldnt find one here, lost it some place. The local tool shop wanted $80 for one, a 50 mile drive & 5 days to get it.
Solution;
Ground some lines on the outside of a 36mm socket so it could be gripped with a stillson (pipe wrench). The Allen hole was a little rounded so used a T60 torx bit in through the 3/4" drive hole in the socket. Worked like a charm. 3' of pipe on each was needed to get it loose. Did it up the same way.
Some earth moving equipment has large bolts that have splines on the end instead of hex nuts. we have made splines to fit so they can be undone.
Have you tried any quench hardening of home made tools? I learned it a few years ago from a blacksmith. Its very interesting doing it.

Ha! If only there were blacksmiths here to learn from...

Is there any chance you can do a DIY on that? I'd love to learn a bit of smithing / tool making skills. It is all very well being a wizz on autocad but that's still at the puffed out chest I've got a good idea management BS stage of events. Someone who can do and not just talk about it is becoming a rare beast these days.