I am setting my injection pump timing and have a question about the cam lobes on cylinder 1. I am following the DIY on this site and the maintenance manual variously. In the DIY article, it states that the cam lobes should be positioned up. I cannot see the lobes in the picture. When I set my balancer to 24 degrees BTDC with the cam lobes up, I cannot pump any fuel through the drip tube. When the lobes are down at 24 degrees BTDC, Fuel squirts through the drip tube. The DIY says to rotate the ip until drips are at 1 per second while using the hand pump. The Maintenance manual says to rotate the engine until the drops come at 1 per second. I have not seen drops yet.

1- Is this 180 degrees out?
2- are both of these methods correct?
3- Does an 83 240d have a mw pump?

The car does start and idle smoothly but with some smoke. I replaced the fuel injectors and heat shields. I can see no fuel leaks It was pinging or knocking under load before I began this work. I have adjusted the valves and replaced all rubber fuel hose and return hose and hand pump and crush washers. My timing chain is keyed to within specs.

This is your third thread on the identical topic.

Once upon a time, all of the superfluous threads would have been deleted.

Now, the onerous is on you to keep all of your questions on a single topic on a single thread.

Set the crankshaft to around 60 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke, then rotate the crankshaft while pumping. Look for the point where substantial flow begins to slow to a drip. It's a lot like shutting off your kitchen faucet; you have full flow, then the flow slows to a drip just prior to the valve being completely closed.

Thanks,
-Are the cam lobes pointed down at the compression stroke? The DIY says they should be pointing up. (cylinder one)
-Is the idea to move the slot in the rear of the pump and then lock it down or is it more like on an axle?
-does one need to pump the primer pump the whole time during rotation?

I had no idea.
I have been working on my car a lot and it has been kind of a fluid situation. I apologize and will endeavor to keep it tidier in the future.

No.

Yes.

It is actually better to rig up a container for the diesel and feed it to the back of the pump I believe...

this method has been described in the archives...

This gives you a much more consistent pressure...which will affect the drips per second.... but it means in setting it again or trying to see what your car does best with ( since no standard pressure is noted in the FSM ) so you can repeat the procedure and note exactly what you have done in case you need to do it again at some later time...
the speed of pumping and the condition of the hand pump gasket make consistency unlikely....and unmeasurable... but the height above your pump method can give you relative repeat pressure.

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Consistency is achieved when the relief valve is actuated.

Since I can not visualize that... can you expand upon your statement ?

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I was able to set my ip timing using the drip tube method! but! I was only able to set it to 30 degrees BTDC, Ouch... The pump is as far away from the block as I can get it. I assume I will have to remove my injection pump and reinstall it. Pumping the primer pump during engine rotation does seem to work.
Thanks

Did you mean during IP rotation ?

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

This might not be the way to go but it might be worth checking that the IP has been fitted to the engine in accordance with chap 7-200.

The problem is though this flies in the face of the general advice on the forum of "never remove the IP you'll only make matters worse". You have been warned!

Only take it off to check if you run out of anything else to do...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

There is no need to "check" anything. The IP needs to be removed, re-indexed and reinstalled. Period.

To ascertain the existing timing, rotate the crankshaft and leave the IP alone. To adjust timing, rotate the IP and leave the crankshaft alone.

If the relief valve on the IP is "popping," delivery pressure is being regulated.

Based on the information given that seems to be the case - but - from the OP's other threads he seems to be learning... don't get me wrong, there's nothing wrong with that...

But, I don't want to make more work for him if it turns out to be a technique problem rather than an incorrectly installed IP problem. Hence my rather hesitant only do it if you've run out of all of the other options advice.

@fochs did you try that quick tip that we mustn't talk about on this forum yet?(!!!!)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!