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  #31  
Old 12-01-2011, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
I realize we've kicked the subject around a good bit, but I think both of the PO's questions have been answered.

Use CJ4 for the diesel as opposed to a regular oil and yes CJ-4 works great in older engines with flat tappets.

Has your question been answered picollo?
CI-4 is what you want for older engines. The amount of zinc additive in CJ oils has been reduced so it's not an issue for the DPF.

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  #32  
Old 12-01-2011, 06:52 PM
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Gawd, I just love a good oil thread!

I use Valvoline VR1 oil in my old flat tappet cars that come and go around here like my British sports cars that I am woefully addicted to.

In my 300CD, I use Rotella synthetic 5W40. I also use it in my Ford diesel pickup. That oil pressure gauge pegs on start up on both of them!
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  #33  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:11 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
OK, lemme start some trouble here . . . . . . . LOL.

Can regular multi-vis oil be used in these diesel engines? Can any damage be done by using, say, 20W50 Castrol or Valvoline in the engine of my '83 300D? I know this will generate a furious debate . . . LOL. So, let's discuss proper, vs. other oils used in gas cars.

Also, what about using 15W40 oil in gas engines?
Qualified answer.

Question: Can regular multi-vis oil be used in these diesel engines?

Answer: Yes.

Question: Can any damage be done by using, say, 20W50 Castrol or Valvoline in the engine of my '83 300D?

Answer: NO...

You can use almost any lubricating oil.
* Refer to the owners manual
* If you change it often enough.
* If it meets climate specification = not to thick or thin.



.
Attached Thumbnails
Wrong Oil???-engine-oil-viscosity_asdgvy.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 12-02-2011 at 02:15 AM.
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  #34  
Old 12-01-2011, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Qualified answer.

NO...
Which of the three questions does the "qualifed" answer apply to?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post


* Refer to the owners manual
People intent on putting square pegs in round holes are usually not inclined to read instructions.
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  #35  
Old 12-02-2011, 09:27 AM
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Well, on the '97 Honda CRV (4-cylinder gas engine), which has 150K miles, I switched to Castrol 20W50 oil. The switch was from the bulk 10W30 Pennsoil on all of the oil change specials that roomie took the car to. Occasionally, when having other work done by my fav local mechanic (works on my N-14, as well as regular 4-sheelers), he would change the oil using Rotella (which I hate) 15W40 diesel oil. I've noticed since I did the switch to Castrol, the car sounds way better. Also, this is Florida, where the high temps make the 50W a better choice, and we haven't noticed any reduced mpg. The one thing that makes a difference in MPG in the Honda (as well as the 300D) is putting 2-stroke motor oil or Lucas into the fuel. 2 MPG difference.

Just wanted to know if there is any negative to putting 15W40 oil into the Honda.
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  #36  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
CI-4 is what you want for older engines. The amount of zinc additive in CJ oils has been reduced so it's not an issue for the DPF.

Yes, the ZDDP level was indeed reduced in the CJ, however it is still at an adequate level for protection of a PREVIOUSLY broken in cam and lifters.

If you are doing break in on a new cam and lifter set, you will need to add ZDDP to the oil for the first 10 or 20 thousand miles, THEN the level of this additive in CJ4 will be adequate.
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  #37  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daman858 View Post
Gawd, I just love a good oil thread!

I use Valvoline VR1 oil in my old flat tappet cars that come and go around here like my British sports cars that I am woefully addicted to.

In my 300CD, I use Rotella synthetic 5W40. I also use it in my Ford diesel pickup. That oil pressure gauge pegs on start up on both of them!

Yes VR1 has a good level of ZDDP. Probably even enough for break in.
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  #38  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
Well, on the '97 Honda CRV (4-cylinder gas engine), which has 150K miles, I switched to Castrol 20W50 oil. The switch was from the bulk 10W30 Pennsoil on all of the oil change specials that roomie took the car to. Occasionally, when having other work done by my fav local mechanic (works on my N-14, as well as regular 4-sheelers), he would change the oil using Rotella (which I hate) 15W40 diesel oil. I've noticed since I did the switch to Castrol, the car sounds way better. Also, this is Florida, where the high temps make the 50W a better choice, and we haven't noticed any reduced mpg. The one thing that makes a difference in MPG in the Honda (as well as the 300D) is putting 2-stroke motor oil or Lucas into the fuel. 2 MPG difference.

Just wanted to know if there is any negative to putting 15W40 oil into the Honda.

Probably no negative, unless the owners manual specifies a much lower viscosity. As Roy (WHunter) said, any good oil, IF CHANGED OFTEN ENOUGH will get the job done.

If the 15W40 is within viscosity levels it will keep the engine cleaner than basic premium oils.
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  #39  
Old 12-02-2011, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
Yes, the ZDDP level was indeed reduced in the CJ, however it is still at an adequate level for protection of a PREVIOUSLY broken in cam and lifters.

If you are doing break in on a new cam and lifter set, you will need to add ZDDP to the oil for the first 10 or 20 thousand miles, THEN the level of this additive in CJ4 will be adequate.
That also mean for the protection of "bearings," also.
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  #40  
Old 12-02-2011, 06:58 PM
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I use the same Caterpillar oil in the scraper, dozer & grader motors here as well as 617, 602, 404jd, 8V71T GM, 354 perkins, VM2.5 & a few others. Its Caterpillar's oil for their motors. I believe it exceeds the current API ratings. Getting it in 55 gal drums makes it much cheaper than the jugs at the parts places.

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