Hello all, when grabbing either rear axle in the center, am I supposed to be able to slide it side to side ? ? Thanks much ! !

Simple question - that got me thinking - and I'm pretty sure the answer is no. (But there's an element of doubt here depending on how much sliding motion you've got)

At which end is it sliding?

And by how much is it sliding? Are we talking cm / mm / microns?

Axles shouldn't move in and out of the differential. That fit is adjusted by shims and held in place by a circlip. At the other end where it goes into the hub on the wheel there's a long bolt and a washer that should hold that end in position. These bolts are meant to be torqued in position when the car is level and sitting on the ground. If these bolts aren't correctly fitted or missing then the camber on the rear wheels will be a pretty messed up.

I'm 99% sure something is up with your axles.

Have the rubber boots still got oil in them?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I am sorry to disagree with Army but some sliding back and forth, maybe about 3/8" to a half inch is normal. No noticable wiggle up and down should be present at all.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

A similar question has just been asked on BW

Axle Shaft Play 300D '85 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

I wonder if it is the same OP with different user names or just coincidence? The questions are slightly different...

Anyway on the BW thread 300Dman == Diesel911 also uses the same reasoning that I did...

I must admit it has got me thinking. I did pop out and yank hard on my axle shafts to see if they moved - but I have to admit at the moment they are in this configuration



EDIT:-

I've had a quick look through the FSM and I can't find any mention of any play limits. I've recently obtained some spare axles - perhaps when I take them to bits I'll be able to see where the play would be. The axles in the picture above have probably only done about 100,000 miles...

Perhaps we're talking about the difference in feel between low and high mileage axles?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

No, they are designed with play in them.

The only exception I know of would be the Jag XKE style in which the half shafts also serve as the upper suspension pivots.

The radius of the suspension moving up and down is slightly different than the radius of the cv joints so the play is required to alleviate the difference.

If you find one which does not slide in and out it is either bad or the grease has set up from sitting.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I have a knocking noise on acceleration that goes away if you let off the gas, it also momentarily stops if the car goes over a bump. Once the car comes back down from the bump it starts again. I had the driver axle replaced, same result. However the new axle doesnt have any side to side play in it. The passenger side does. About 1/2 inch to inch in the middle. It slides like the other one I just replaced. Had the bearings checked, flex disc checked etc. I am wondering if there is a compound problem now.

Tom I know you know you're right!

I found this handy little video on youtube =>

Beware naked spiders!!!

Rear Axle Shaft Inspection & Repair on a Mercedes Benz by Kent Bergsma - YouTube

EDIT:-

123benzman - watch link above and there's a few good tips in there for you.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

As was mentioned in post #3. Yes... If you grab the solid shaft in the middle of the axle it "should' move back and forth. This play is in there so that when the control arm moves "up and down" the axle moves "in and out" of the cans.

If you had a knocking noise, this sounds like some of the grease/oil has moved away from the bearing in the CV joint. You can re-grease/re-oil the original axles if you "catch them early".

Another thing about checking the axles. When you grab any of the 4 cans on the axles they should not move in and out. Also, if you grab both cans on one side and twist there should not be much play here either. If there is play in these areas, you will have clunking and knocking noises. The outer cans are tightened by the bolts and spacers at the outer ends of the axles. The inner cans are tightened/adjusted by using shims inside the axle housing.

__________________
AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)