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  #1  
Old 12-02-2011, 05:52 PM
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How to remove Vacuum pump 87 300 TD

Hey guys, I'm trying to swap out old vac pump, and hit a snag. I've removed all 6 bolts and have it almost all the way out, but the left side is hung up behind the pivot at the base of the spring/shock (I think the edge of the vac pump flange is hooking on the head of a bolt that sits just inside the gasket). The pivot (also attached to the middle pulley wheel for the serp-belt) does not seem to move enough to pivot out of the way. So I'm thinking the pivot needs to be loosened and backed off - Right? Does anybody know how I can back the pivot out a few turns? I need to know what tool is needed - I can't see or feel what is in there. if anyone knows of a DIY-wiki on this please let me know. Thanks -John

Last edited by johnscars; 12-02-2011 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:20 PM
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wow, I've done this job before but for the life of me can't remember how it all went down. I do recall it was a very straight forward job. Hopefully someone else can chime in. Replacing that vac pump gives much needed peace of mind with the om603.

FYI: if you start messing with that tensioner you may very well break it! I had a new one on hand when I did mine. The old one didn't break but it sure did on my M119.

Goodluck
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2011, 06:39 PM
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Yeah, the pump is practically out, but the edge of the flange is hung up no matter how I turn the pump or move the pivot (up or down). I'm really looking forward to the peace of mind. I'd been stressing during drives, and finally stopped driving it almost a month ago. the stress was no fun... Luckily we've got a spare car for the kids - (90 BMW 535, only 18mpg, no A/C, but it drives nicely.) And I just don't enjoy driving the wagon with the sword of Damocles dangling by a thread over my head.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:25 PM
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you have to take out the bolt to actually remove the tensioner.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2011, 10:23 PM
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John,
I've removed both top bolts and the spring (right) from the tensioner. Only the bottom pivot remains (attached to the bottom of the shock - free at the top) But no matter how I've levered the lower "pivot", the vacuum pump's housing's left side flange is trapped - the vacuum pump housing's left side's flange hooks over the bolt head that is inside the gasket. I feel it is really close to releasing the vac pump. But I think I have to back off the pivot's bolt - but i don't know how to do it - do you know what tool fits into the pivot to back it off??? I can't see into it, and have tried using various allen wrenches... Any ideas about what to do?
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2011, 09:10 AM
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I'll look today and figure it out for ya. I pm'd you my number, and I'll give you a call when I'm in front of my car.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2011, 09:16 AM
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Location: Carlsbad, CA
Posts: 516
27mm nut on the crank bolt

Sounds like the V.Pump cam follower (spring loaded) is sitting on a high spot on the IP Timing Gear ramp. Thus pushing the V. Pump against the pulley.

Try turning the motor over a couple of hairs to get to a low timing gear ramp spot by using a socket on the crank bolt....should give you the clearance you need to remove the pump.

Remember to have the timing gear positioned with ramp in a low spot when you put the new pump on or you may not even get all six bolts to thread. May even crack the housing when tightening back down. Also remember to use a cross pattern when tightening the V. Pump back up to reduce housing facture potential.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2011, 01:36 PM
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Thanks guys, I got it out with guidance from Sixto (thanks again) after removing the tensioner pulley, shock bottom (and top and spring), the fan, and fan pulley. Local Harbor Freight had pulley tool 66385 for $7.99 - 20% plus a freebee!

86-sdl, the pump's innards didn't seem to be the issue. The outer flange of the pump at 8'olock was catching the head of a bolt just inside the vac pump gasket (There are 3 bolts just inside the gasket, holding the timing basket, but the other two - 1 and 4 o'clock are not in the way.) Anyway the tensioner pulley needs to rotate to 12/6'oclock to create clearance for the vac pump flange.

But now I'm looking at the 2 gaskets that came with the vac pump. One gasket looks like the old one. The other gasket has a the dam and is made of plastic. If anyone knows the recommended process from here, which gasket? Gasket glue? please let me know. It is warming up, and I'd like to get it all back together today.

I've decided that since my original/old vac pump - with no torx bolts - looks good at 311k, it must be getting sufficient oil, and the timing wheel looks sweet - I'll leave the basket, and use the new non-dam gasket part # 601 238 07 08. And the Pierburg vac pump is stamped 10T260.

Last edited by johnscars; 12-06-2011 at 03:02 PM.
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