|
|
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
Here are some pictures of the crank with the bearings off. They feel very smooth but I do feel a scratch on one of them. I measured the size it's right on 51.95 mm. I will plan to measure the others tomorrow. If they all measure within spec, I'm going to order new bearing and start putting the motor back together.
I realize I can break the motor down farther and measure every piece but I'm going to take the risk that everything else is within spec. The compression was mid to high 300's on all the cylinder except #3 that had the bent valve. When I removed the upper pan, I didn't see any sludge. Should I pull the oil pump and clean it? I did have oil pressure so I think the oil pump is working properly. Thanks for all the advice. -pete |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Did you measure from different directions so you could see if it is egg shaped? If the crank mics good I would take it as a minimum to a shop and have it polished. I would have them clean out the oil passages too. If they find a lot of bearing debris in there you will need to consider cleaning the oil passages in the block too.
It is so much work to pull one of these apart and reassemble is is a shame to cut corners. I would also have the machinist look at the oil pump too.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
1,2 and 4 all show Visible signs of Damage (Scratches)
No need to discuss #3.
Needs to be "Polished", 'Crank should have a "Mirror LIKE" finish on it. I'd HOLD OFF on ordering the Big End and Crank Bearing sets,you may be going with #1 Oversized. ALL of the advice from the Replys before this should be followed. Not that much more work or expense. AND if you've got Debris/Swarf in the Internals,THAT doesn't get removed. 'Sword of Damocles waiting on His Most Obnoxiousness Lord Murphy to have his way with your 617 Just when you Don't need it!
__________________
'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Since the crank journal is not torn up. In a way the bearing appears to have done it's job by sacrificing itself to the foreign material.
The question in my mind is where did the material come from? The bearing itself shedding material? If that much was coming down the oil passages some of the other bearings should have at least got a portion of it. |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Your camera has a green shell!
__________________
Cheers! Scott McPhee 1987 300D |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
it looks like you have only pulled the rod caps... I'd pull the main caps and look over THAT set of bearings... debris came from somewhere.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
There is an old trick that does work on a good crank to polish it. Take 600 grit try-m-ite paper, oil it, wrap around the journal, then take a flat shoe lace wrap around a few times, you should have a least a foot or more left over on each end to grab. pull back and forth a bunch of times, try to cover all area equally. This works quite well just for polishing, will not remove deep scratchs. The forth picture would be a canidate for this assuming it is round. The rest, well maybe you can get away with it.
Must say getting the crank ground is only about a $100 or so. So you may be a little penny wise and pound folish to not just take it to a shop and have em fix it up right.
__________________
1977 240D turbo |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Looks good to me
The crank journals look pretty good , should polish up nicely. I would bet that new std size bearings will work. I am still a fan of plastigaging the journals , it is an easy thing to do and as has been pointed out the average guy is usually not skilled enough to get reliable readings from the crank journals and inside mic the bearings. By all means get the bottom end checked by a machine shop. The bottom ends of the rods should be checked for size as well since they can become deformed. Cheers Dan
__________________
It's always something simple 91 300D 603.960 (from japan) 194K 92 Toyota Diesel Landcruiser HDJ81-t 116K 02 Golf TDI new head courtesy of PO 87 300D 97 BMW 525 TDS Wagon 5spd bunch of Onan and other diesel generators |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
I'll pull the crank off tomorrow and bring it to the machine shop to get polished and mic'd. Thanks for all the replies.
pete |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
I received the crank back from the machine shop. He said it showed little wear and was definitely in spec. He seemed to be impressed with the quality of the 240d motor.
Do the notches on the end caps have to match up to the notches on the connecting rods? e.g. the notches are both on the same side Also can someone confirm that the torque on the end caps should be 40-50nm? Thanks. Pete |
Bookmarks |
|
|