Was there any vibration before they failed? I wonder what brand I just put on my car... I think they were Fibi?

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Here's another recent thread on a similar subject over on Ben's World.

MODS MAKE STICKY: Part manufactures to buy from and ones not to. - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

These junk new spares are a nightmare. I'm not sure how much longer even the option of paying dealer prices will guarantee a decent spare part. I did buy some W123 body parts recently that had a made in West Germany sticker on them I expect that to last - but then I've bought some rubber bungs for the chassis that looked distinctly like they came from the school of recycled plastic shopping bags...

As pointed out above by several people - it isn't where the parts are made that is the problem.


It is a brand's policy to encourage the manufacture of crap parts.


A board of company dickheads have decided to make junk and then sell it.


We're running out of options folks - I'm buying good second hand - what are you going to do?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Yes there was but it came about very quickly, I initially thought it was a trans mount or something. I was actually trying to diagnose the problem when it all blew apart as a friend borrowed my car to go to the gas station and commented that there was a bad vibration at 30mph. I took it for a spin to replicate the problem and boom!

I should have just checked under the car but as I rebuilt the whole suspension 11 months before, it did not register. When I did look under the car, the front flex disc was completely missing and the rear was in tatters.


This is a picture of the back which really tells the story as the back flex disc rarely needs replacing even after 20 years and 200 miles. I just had mine replaced because I was going trough the suspension anyway.



Does this discourage from buying URO parts.. of course! But will I stop buying aftermarket parts? Not at all.

If you don't know already, MB stopped selling OE parts through aftermarket suppliers so unless you're buying from the dealer or classic center, you will no longer be able to get MB parts once they run out of stock.

If you own a new MB, it makes sense to pay dealer prices, but if you own a $2000 car which is what most 560SEL's are worth these days, then the only economical way to keep them on the road is to buy aftermarket parts. Else you could find yourself spending twice the value of the car every year on parts.

There are some good quality parts suppliers out there. I personally have not had problems with Febi but I will avoid any particular parts from them that have been highlighted in this thread because it's always better to learn from the mistakes of others.

For any that think that MB won't be supplying parts from China, think again. MB has been building cars in China for some time so it's just a matter of time before they source parts from China for their global market.

__________________
With best regards

Al

I purchased a Moog ball joint from NAPA and it said Made in Germany.

__________________
Jim

Today I was at PNP, and there is this 82 300TD, eng and trans already removed, so removing the front sway bra was easy. just had to remove the brake booster and MC. got them out of the way, removed the SB bushings and clamps, removed the bolt in the end tof the bar to the upper control arms.
Finally had to remove the upper control arms, and the bar came out.

The inner bushings where it conects to the body looked good on both arms, as well as the BJ boots. on closer examination the right side BJ was loose and wobbly and with up and down movement. there was a 1/8 in space where the boot fits against the BJ shaft, and I could see the rust pitting on the ball.

The left side the ball was tight and firm, bit it also had the samw 1/8 in space.

The R/F was a no name control arm.
The L/F was a Febi arm with the part# and made in W germany.

The next time I replace the upper control arms, I think it would be a good idea to drill and tap for a Zerk fitting and give these a shot of grease now and then.

That R/F BJ was really scarry looking at how loose it was. just looking at the Boot wouldn`t have caused any concern, as it wasn`t cracked or torn.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I've been thinking along similar lines - however - all of these joints these days seem to come with that dark gray CV type grease which I've had trouble getting hold of.

Does anyone know if this stuff is cheaper than say the stuff that you'd put in your wheel bearings? I know wheel bearing grease is designed for higher temperatures - but perhaps if the manufacturers are skimping on the rest of the manufacturing process they are also putting crap grease in the joints too?

So question is:-

What do you guys think would be a good grease for a ball joint or a an axle come to that (assuming you don't want to refill your axles with oil)

I used to use Castrol LM on lots of sliding type joints on British Leyland cars... perhaps we need to go a bit old school?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Years ago when I had car with grease fittings I would use a high pressure grease with molybdenum disulfide.

molybdenum disulfide grease

__________________
1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-(
2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250

Indeed - Castrol lm is lithium based

Engine Oil and Lubricants Castrol UK - CASTROL CLASSIC GREASES

I don't know the difference between lithium and molybdenum greases - wikipedia has failed me I think!

However

Molybdenum disulfide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I'm not sure if the "new black" greases are moly or not...

Does anyone know?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

All I know is that if we are drilling and tapping Zerk fittings onto our parts that are supposed to be lubricated for life, something is very wrong.

The original Mercedes parts lasted 25 years. All i'm asking is for the aftermarket ones to last 1/2 as long. I'll even take 1/4 as long.

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-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

My thinking is, any grease is better than no grease. probably any grease that is for suspention and or wheel bearings is good. not sure what is in my grease gun at the moment.

I haven`t replace any front end components myself, but did have a shop do the 85 one time. next time "Drill Baby, Drill" and start pumping grease.

I have replaced the ball joints etc on my old Datsun PU several times as well as the other pieces. the BJ use to come with zerks, then as time has gone on, now they have been eliminated. I drill a hole and install them now. after 100,000 miles of driving, they are not loose, wobbly or rusted.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I agree - but as I've got to replace the rubber boots on my Febi tie rod ends anyway I thought I might change the grease from what they put in to something that is good. I'm assuming they put in some junk that will enhance an early demise.

I'm not going to be drilling and tapping in grease nipples. It would be just something else for me to get all worried about. I'm anal enough as it is.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/322028-anyone-else-uro-brand-windshield-rubber.html

This makes me think of the Independent Party in Massachusetts -- everyone who was an independent (not registered with a party) is now "unenrolled". People from other states sometimes look at us as if they're thinking, "Why don't you register to vote?"?

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

I just bought a set of Febi motor mounts from fastlane for my new 300D. I was shocked when I opened the box to the see the red Febi boxes had a nice square "made in China" sticker on them!!


maaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnn if I wanted junk I would have bought another set of Uro's like I did for the SD

those were urethane filled and are not in the SD yet.....so hopefully I'll be able to report back and will likely get Lemforders next..........oi

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

Have a search for diesel911's thread on motor mounts. I think he worked out that one brand was the same as the dealer item but with a star ground off...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!