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  #1  
Old 12-16-2011, 05:51 PM
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Occaisional 2-3 flare 1990 350SD

On my friends 350SD the car sometimes flares on the 2-3 shift. It's only the 2-3 never any other gears. And sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It seems to do it more when it's cold. But going up a very steep grade under a heavy load it doesn't do it which leads me to believe its not a slipping clutch. I remember reading about pistons and springs in these transmissions, is one related to the 2-3 shift?

The trans fluid is filled to the correct level and is nice and clean and smells good. He has a new filter and gasket on the shelf for it but didn't want to do it if We were going to have to re-drop the pan down the road to replace a part.

Part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 12-16-2011, 07:10 PM
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Set the vacuum control valve based upon the FSM procedure.

Follow Dave's link:

Another 603 vacuum adjustment/shifting thread... help Brian, Dave, etc.!
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2011, 08:02 PM
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So do you start the car with the VCV bolt loosened? It says run at full throttle until the Contol lever is resting on the full load stop, that's what I am not understanding.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
So do you start the car with the VCV bolt loosened? It says run at full throttle until the Contol lever is resting on the full load stop, that's what I am not understanding.
No.........you perform the procedure without the engine running.

Clearly, you cannot run the engine in neutral with the control lever fully open............
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  #5  
Old 12-16-2011, 09:21 PM
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So you slacken the bolt, have someone hold the pedal to the floor, and I turn the VCV clockwise until I feel resistance and them tighten the set screw?

Sorry to drag this out, I just want to get it right
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2011, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
So you slacken the bolt, have someone hold the pedal to the floor, and I turn the VCV clockwise until I feel resistance and them tighten the set screw?

Sorry to drag this out, I just want to get it right
There are no set screws. There are two cap screws that hold the VCV to the IP.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2011, 10:23 PM
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Yeah that's what I meant, 65C in the diagram.
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2011, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
Yeah that's what I meant,
...........then, you should so state...........less confusing...........
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2011, 11:09 PM
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So you slacken screws 65C upper and lower, have someone hold the pedal to the floor, and I turn the VCV clockwise in the direction of the arrow until I feel resistance and then re tighten screws 65C upper and lower?
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2011, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
So you slacken screws 65C upper and lower, have someone hold the pedal to the floor, and I turn the VCV clockwise in the direction of the arrow until I feel resistance and then re tighten screws 65C upper and lower?
Should I drive out there and do it for you..............???

We're not rebuilding a differential here.............
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  #11  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:06 AM
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If you're offering. However if my rewording into simpler terms is correct, a very basic yes would have sufficed.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
If you're offering. However if my rewording into simpler terms is correct, a very basic yes would have sufficed.
The FSM wording is as simple as it gets. You've simply recited it verbatim.

It's a five minute procedure..............
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:22 AM
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What point are you proving? You don't like stupid questions?

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Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i
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