Trying to compile thoughts on coil spring compressors
 

I now have 3 MB's in the fleet and have some suspension work to be done. I am trying to decide whether renting or buying makes more sense for a coil spring compressor.

I have seen a ton of posts on spring compressors. Many are older posts so things may have changed or people may have more experience now with some of the knock-offs. One of the criticisms is the Klann 'Clones' may be inferior or unsafe, it seems they have been kicking around now for at least 5-8 years according to some of the post dates. It seems like they have now been tested so I'd like to get some feedback from those that have used these several times.

I'll just list a few and hope folks will comment on them specifically with their experience and add to the list if I have missed any. Really looking for experienced recommendations to go with or stay away from the given brands.

• El Paso - $189 Ebay. I see the El Paso name that seems to be the same company as the Baum unit sold for much more (like $695). Does anyone know if these are different or the same thing? Part number is similar, something like 924-0231EP. The Baum is the same number minus the EP. Are they the very same units???

• JTC1801. I think this is also under SG motorsports banner

• ZDMAK

• KTC

• Koch tools

A couple more specific questions.

• I see many of these are slightly larger than the Klann and have trouble fitting through a hole on the W123. Is this any big deal? I read it can be widened.

• Some of these have black or grey plates while others have the more yellow or brassy colored plates. I assume it's just surface plating but am wondering if that matters?

• I'll be using it on several W124's (90 300D, 93 300D, 95 E320 wagon) that I have but may want to use on a 240D or W123 in the future should the fleet grow!

• Will these work on both the front and back of all these model cars (240D and the other W123 an W124 300D's and E320's)?

I've had other zdmak tools fall apart on me.

The cost for the rental with shipping is over $70. If you do it three times, you've paid for the cost of a new one. With multiple vehicles to do............presumably at different times.............it does not make sense to rent.

The El Paso unit works fine...........an claims by those who believe the clone doesn't work are simply BS.

I bought a cheapo spring compressor to do the job on one car. I did have to enlarge the holes on my W123 chassis to get the compressor through into the inside of the spring - not ideal - but better than paying for a klann compressor in my opinion...

I see a heavy duty spring compressor at Princess Auto (Canada), sale for $99, normally $150. A pair of tubular "jacks" that fit onto side of spring, with a centred screw in each to compress them. Various safety features to clamp the spring, prevent slip, etc. There's a third "arc" piece that I have no idea how'd to fit, and why?

Anyway I notice there's a rating on the box. Rated at 1200 lbs. I'd assume that's 1200 per pair of jacks put into action on one spring. So a spring pressure of 1200. I don't often see ratings like this for various compressors.

These ones are the best looking (solid) generic spring compressors, way more engineering to them than the simple "strut" compressor screws you see everywhere. I'll try to grab a picture.

Anybody comment on spring rating of pounds for a w124 diesel front spring?

Heavy Duty Coil Spring Compressor | Princess Auto

Here's a pix:

I have one, don`t know the make but came in the red case and has black plates. when I was looking for one, I checked out e-bay for quite a while getting a feel on what is out there, and price. seems they run around $200 with the shipping, maybe a little more now from a couple years ago.

I found a few that were used for a good price, and always got out bid.

started looking in Craigs List, and finally found one for $75, brand new, never used. guy bought it for his 124, and then sold the car.

I have used it maybe 4 times. once in PNP for a set of 240 springs.

As mentioned, you will have to enlarge the hole a bit. there are 2 pieces of sheet metal in the hole, and it is the inner piece that has to be filed back. then seal the bare metal with some POR.

Do not use an impact gun on the tool. crank down on the compressor with a hand ratchet.

These knock off`s of the Klann tool are all probably made in Taiwan. once in a while a Klann compressor will come up on E-bay or CL.

Charlie

The third bit looks like it attaches to the little allen head bolts so you could fit the compressors parallel to each other.

I've tried a to remove w123 front springs with external spring compressors - I ended up using two sets => each set had three compressors. It was a pain in the arse and very dangerous. I would never be so cheap again! This is why I bought the cheapo knock off internal compressor.

On a W123 the front springs are much longer than the springs on most modern cars. They are also set close into the chassis making it very difficult to use external spring compressors. I'm not saying it isn't impossible - I'm just sure that I was pretty lucky not killing myself - I used to have lovely black shiny hair - now I look like a grey old fart. I lost my youthful looks using external spring compressors on W123 front springs.

You should only use these external units on a M/B if your life is worth $100. or less. That's the difference in price between what you're buying and what the Klann clone costs.

Be understanding of the fact that you will risk your life with one of these units.

Absolutely the best post describing the follies of using the wrong tools. :D

That PA one looks really good though!!

Indeed - the whole point of the bigger exercise is to LIVE and learn...

Home made spring compressor not mine
Homemade Spring Compressor - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I made the 2 below Spring Compressors from fine threaded 1 Inch rod.

The one on the left pulls the Spring up into the Spring Pearch and holds it there. You can actually un-collaspe the Spring and remove it; but it is a lot of turning to un-thread the Nut.

The other one with the hooks was made so that I would have something to remove the Mercedes Springs but at the same time be able to use it on something else besides a mercedes.

So if you use some common sense regarding the safety issue it is possible to make a usable item yourself.

Umm, so everybody who's used an external type compressor has died?

These answers seem very alarmist.

How could a manufacturer make something rated for 1200 lbs survive in the market if every customer dies?

What's so special about a Mercedes spring that a Klann type is required?

Apparently you cannot grasp the fact that the potential danger does not guarantee a bad outcome..............just like driving 150mph on the expressway doesn't necessarily mean you're dying because of it.


Actually, they are quite correct for the majority of cases where a side pull is utilized.

Did anybody state that "every customer dies"? Or is this your own conclusion without any data?

The rating on the spring compressor has nothing to do with how the unit is utilized. You'll find multiple exclusions in the instructions regarding how the manufacturer mitigates risk. There is a sizable risk that the spring ejects itself from the external compressor if two of the units are utilized. It's the nature of the design.

Nothing much at all. The unit has internal plates that pull on the spring and the plates cannot disengage when force is applied to them.

The M/B front springs require almost full compression until the coils are flattened against each other to enable installation and removal. The force required for this is well over 2500 lb.

It's also dependent on the car, not just the spring.

On the W123 at least, there is not enough room in the wheel well to properly orient external compressors. This means that one side of the spring is compressed more than the other. The slope of the spring and the compressive force tends to cause the clamps to slip towards each other.

You can get by using external compressors. You might even be able to do it more than once. Ever seen a compressed banana-shaped spring with both compressors on one side? It's not safe, or stable, and there's a crap-load of stored mechanical energy in there just straining to get out...now what?

It's foolhardy to use incorrect tools on a dangerous repair when there are better, safer tools available and most jobs that need spring repairs do not just suddenly occur without warning.

Plan ahead, get a suitable tool for the job. It really sucks to have the car partway disassembled and then suddenly realize that it'd be a dangerously bad idea to continue on that path. BTDT.

Doesn't really seem there is much to debate on the style to use on these cars. My OP was around specific brands of the Klann clones. I have no interest in the other styles, just don't seem to be anywhere close to safe as has been pointed out many times on here and elsewhere.

I actually ordered myself an El Paso model tonight. The billing on Ebay was from Baum Tools. I have read very good things about their unit so - cool I am hoping I'll be all set!!!!

I'd still encourage anyone who has one of these to remark on their make/model and the good or bad about it. It will really help others that come along like me and are trying to make a decision on what to add to the toolbox.

I think that is the one that I picked up a few years ago. I will note that when you slide the disc into the spring you want to "screw" the plates towards the ends of the spring as they can go and still get the tensioner in. Once you have tightened the spring compressor you can use a floor jack, remove the lower control arm, inner adjustment bolt and lower the control arm to the ground. Pretty straight forward.

on the 124, the spring is contained in a shorter area, and the clone tool is possible to use, but difficult... the Klann with the short shaft is the correct tool for the 124. without it, you will be fighting the threaded portion of the compressor getting in and out of the car with the spring.

I've used the clone, and the klann. I'd only use the clone on the 126, as the hole is bigger. but I don't like to dremel on my cars.
I've rented out the clone and the klann. I've never had issues with either.

Would you know if the latest clone from Baum is a bit narrower in the body and will fit the W123 without modification? Rumor has it............???

mine is wide, I've not heard this rumor...
I've often wondered if the clone could work if milled down... NO way I'm trying it, just wondering.
the difference between the clone and the Klann is hardly anything!!!

...........about .070" on the diameter...........

X2

I have one as well and I agree that you need to get the two plates as far apart as possible when setting them in the springs to really compress them enough for removal. I also had to widen the holes on my 123 to get the compressor shaft through. I picked up a die grinder from HF and that worked really well. Like Charlie said, be sure to treat the bare metal once you're done, but it wasn't a big deal to me.

It is not alarmist because the Front Springs on the Mercedes Diesel must be 3-5 times stronger than a comparable domestic Cars.
Also several Members besides Myself have tried the normal Spring Compressors and had they get bent or twisted.

I tried the Harbor freight claw type Spring Compressors and what happens is the threaded Rod bent on them.

I replaced the stock threaded rod with 5/8" threaded rod. That also bent.
After that I decided to make my own Spring Compressor.

Note that the Hooked shaped Compressor that I made has 1" Threaded Rod and that did not bend. So it is not impossible for a Claw type Spring Compressor to work it is just that no Company makes ones that are strong enough.

Your 1" threaded rod has a yield strength in tension of approx. 35,000 lb. if you used mild steel.

The tensile load on the rod was probably on the order of 2,000 lb. or less.

The reason that you had to use 1" rod was to overcome the massive bending moment caused by the fact that the load was not aligned with the centerline of the rod.

On the Klann, or the clones, the load acts almost perfectly down the center of the actuation screw............thereby ensuring no bending moment on the screw............and allowing no risk in fully compressing the spring.

Any of the purchased side pull compressors with threaded rods of less than 1" are not satisfactory for the task.

Something else to keep in mind -- two different sizes of plates . I borrowed the Indie mechanic's spring compressor tool to do front control arms on my W124. Not sure if it was the Klann or the knock off. It had two sets of plates with it. One time he gave me the smaller plates. They worked like a charm just like the Klann video :)

The next time i used it i grabbed the wrong set of plates, the bigger ones. It was a pita to get it, had to go upside down, in from the top. . I think the W126 uses the bigger plates or something. But some tools might have "universal" size that won't be as ideal for the W124.

the bigger plates are for the rear springs... so, they are not needed, as the subframe dropped safely releases the springs in the rear.

First time I used mine was at PNP removing the front springs from an old 240D.
with the cars sitting up on those welded rims for stands, the suspention hangs down, and the spring has a curve to it. after hand filing the hole down with a rasp, which seemed to take for ever.
I place in the lower plates and upper and slide the rod in, well the rod is straight and the lower plate is off a bit. after fiddling with it, I get the rod in, but can`t get it to lock in securely with the lower plate. now it is in a bind, and cant get it to release, and my tool is stuck. :mad:

Jacks are not allowed, and I even scoured through several rows of cars looking for an elusive jack. It is getting close to closing time and Iam in a panic, can`t leave my tool in this car over night.:eek:
Don`t remember what I did but finally got it to release. then moved the lower plate up a coil or so and compressed the spring. It didn`t compress it enough to remove it, so I had to remove the nut for the upper control arm and lower steering knuckle, once it dropped I got the spring out. It was compressed enough it wasn`t a problem.

Man what a learning experience. :cool:

Charlie

Red v. blue
 

Any difference known between the compressor in the red box v. the one in the blue box, besides the color of the plates?

My Christmas present to me is one or the other.

I'm saving up for a Klann as it is the only thing I will trust with my life.

I had one break when working on my Vette and when the spring opened up, it left a hole about 1inch deep in the concrete.

Just scarry how much energy is stored in a compressed spring.

hint for use on these situations...
install the rod into the spring with the socket and an extension on the tool it makes it SOOOOO much easier to align stuff, and get the plate hooked in.

and the vette spring is 1/10th the pressure of an MB spring.

the clone tools are PERFECTLY safe. plenty of strength in that design. ONLY use the clone of the Klann, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE EXTERTERNAL SCREW CLAMPS!!!!!
only trust center bolt with dual plate style compressors.
it's a good idea to regrease the tool after each use.

I ABSOLUTELY love my Klann, and I have the style with both the short and the long shafts.
it is available for rent, and if you only need if for one job, that's the way I'd do it.

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only!

I'll waive rental fees on the klann tool until Jan 15 for ONE WEEK rentals only![/QUOTE]

If you wern't (according to google maps) 16,256 miles or 56days 9 hours away from me, then I'd take you up on your offer.

Google is a funny thing - some notes it added were:-
Driving directions to Sydney from NC, USA3D2Dhttp://maps.gstatic.com/intl/en_au/m...ransparent.png


This route has tolls.-
This route includes a ferry.-
This route crosses through Japan.

That's some ferry ride!

heh, just imagine what THAT ferryman would charge...
yeah, i'm thinking the shipping alone would exceed the week's rental...