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  #1  
Old 12-20-2011, 04:31 PM
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W123 Axle Seal removal

Has anyone got any tips for removing the seals from the 3rd member to the rear axles? The FSM says use a screw driver but I have seen several posts lamenting on how useless that is.
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  #2  
Old 12-20-2011, 05:28 PM
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i used a 20" long pry bar, pressing on it with my foot.
did it work? yes.
was it easy? no.
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  #3  
Old 12-20-2011, 10:24 PM
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Do a Google search for Seal Remover and you will find a lot of hook shaped ones (sold at you local Auto Parts Store) that look like a miniature medieval weapon.
There are also one that attach to Slide Hammers.

What will work depends on what is behind the Seal. If there is flat metal behind the seal something like a Screwdriver Blade may be needed to get behind it.
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  #4  
Old 12-20-2011, 10:39 PM
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This type of Harbor Freight prybars works great.... And cheap!

3 Piece Pry Bar Set




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  #5  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:16 PM
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diff seal puller

My most effective tool was to find a 14mm size bolt with a lip, of the kind that are strewn all over the ground at wrecking yards.

Drill a hole for the bolt into the side of one end of a heavy block of wood that is about a metre long. Screw it in leaving about 15mm of the bolt protruding, enough room for the lip to grab on the inside edge of the seal while the block rests against the diff.

Apply the bolt lip to the seal and give the other end of the block a good kick and your seal will fly out. You'll spend about a minute giggling.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2012, 06:34 PM
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If you use the seal puller A.K.A. "miniature medieval weapon" be careful what you pry on as I did this last weekend and there was some damage to what lies behind the seal.

Another thing I had problems with is the differential mount bottom bolt. It wanted to cross thread. Use a pry bar to position the differential it to where it needs to be. If the bolt don't go in with hand pressure don't force it. It will cross thread. Been there done that.
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2012, 07:18 PM
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I used the tool used in Deliveryvalves post but I was removing Seal that has not been in long. I was removing it becauethe Seal Spring had popped of when I installed it. See Pics.

When I removed the Old Seals I when to the highest point/12:00 on the Seal (the highest point if the differential was installed) and tapped a small Scewdriver between the bore and the Seal edge and pried the Seal out.

You need to be careful with that because it marks up the bore the Seal goes into a little.

However, I took a small Jewlers File and dressed off the high spots and used Permatex Copper Kote Sealent around the seal to seal up any grooves that might have been left by the Screwdriver.

It is not going to leake when you do that because the Differential Fluid is thick and it is not under any pressure (there is a vent in the Differential Housing).

I did not use the Prybar the to remove the Old Seals because I was not willing to spend the hour or so to find where I had put them.
When I was faced with remvoving the new Seal undamged I had to take the time to look for the Pry Bars.

After putting the Spring Back on the Seal I shoved a Socket into the center to keep tension on the Lip and Seal Spring to keep it from popping off again; as suggested by one of our Members.
Attached Thumbnails
W123 Axle Seal removal-differential-seal-removal-1b.jpg   W123 Axle Seal removal-differential-seal-removal-2b.jpg   W123 Axle Seal removal-differential-seal-removal-0b.jpg   W123 Axle Seal removal-differential-seal-removal-3b.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2012, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starrywhite View Post
My most effective tool was to find a 14mm size bolt with a lip, of the kind that are strewn all over the ground at wrecking yards.

Drill a hole for the bolt into the side of one end of a heavy block of wood that is about a metre long. Screw it in leaving about 15mm of the bolt protruding, enough room for the lip to grab on the inside edge of the seal while the block rests against the diff.

Apply the bolt lip to the seal and give the other end of the block a good kick and your seal will fly out. You'll spend about a minute giggling.
Giggling is always good!

Are you not going to post up a nice picture of your tool then? (Teasing is also good!)
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2012, 11:16 AM
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I didn't have a big socket to install the new seals when I did axles on my 123 last year. I went to Home Depot and found some large pvc fittings that fit perfectly. Probably cost me $4.
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connerm View Post
I didn't have a big socket to install the new seals when I did axles on my 123 last year. I went to Home Depot and found some large pvc fittings that fit perfectly. Probably cost me $4.
Ya, I already had the Socket I used.
I guess I had been lucky for some thing like 44 years; until that Seal came along I have never had the Spring pop out.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 06-13-2012 at 02:20 PM.
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  #11  
Old 06-13-2012, 12:20 AM
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FYI

Here is another low cost tool designed for this job.
Seal Puller w/2 Tips


.

Last edited by whunter; 06-13-2012 at 09:48 PM.
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  #12  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:48 AM
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I ended up using a prybar but that tool Roy posted looks like it would have been easier.
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1977 MB 240D 4 speed 145K - Nearly Perfect
1993 MB 400E 212K - New Project
2014 Honda CR-V 85K - Wife's DD
2018 Ford F150 5.slow 15K - My DD

1979 MB 280E 90K - Sold
1983 MB 240D 238K - Scrapped
1984 MB 300D 347K? - Sold
1984 MB 300TD Wagon - 188k - Sold
1987 MB 300E 5 speed 258K - Scrapped
1991 MB 300TE 5 speed 276K - Sold
1993 MB 400E 130K - Sold
1995 MB E320 Wagon 190k - Sold
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2012, 11:41 AM
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I have the HF tool, but couldn`t get the seals to budge. think I used a screwdriver and hammer, punched a hole or deformed the metal a bit, then it came out. that tool isn`t super strong, someone posted a picture of his that broke where the 2 pieces are rivited together.

I workd really good for installing the muffler do-nuts.

Charlie
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2012, 09:52 PM
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More tools

Carbon Steel Seal Puller w/Side Handle




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