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  #1  
Old 12-21-2011, 06:34 PM
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Warning Lights 1992 300D

So my car was fine about 3 days ago. One night I drive it home and it's fine, the next morning I start it and wa-la! all the warning lights have now turned on! (see pic) I figured it was some sort of mistake because half the lights were really dim, and others I knew the problem they were reporting didn't really exist (like the BRAKE light. . . the brake wasn't on).
I drove it around a bit with the lights on. 2 days ago when I was driving all the lights turned off and went back to normal. Then later that day (on a different trip) they all came back on again. Yesterday the car did not start because of lack of battery power.

Sooo, sounds like the alternator right? But would that cause all these lights to come on on the dash as well? I put a battery charger on the battery overnight and this morning she started right up, but with the warning lights on.

Any other possibilities?

Thanks

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Old 12-21-2011, 06:38 PM
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Ignition switch.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:06 PM
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Or alternator... either isn't hard to test.

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Old 12-21-2011, 08:36 PM
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hmm, and what would the proper way to test each be?
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:42 AM
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To test the alternator: hook a meter up to the battery. Start the car. Does it go to ~13 volts? If so the alternator is working.

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:42 PM
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ok, so I tested the voltage. It seems to be just like you said, around 13. but wouldn't there be voltage coming from the battery even with the car off?

How do I check the ignition switch?
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:54 PM
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I would think the voltage with the car running should be around 14 or a bit above. Check the voltage before starting the car and then after. It should be higher.
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Old 12-24-2011, 03:08 PM
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Ok, so maybe I don't know how to use the multimeter correctly, but I put it on direct current voltage first setting 20 then on 200. I got over 21-22v with the car off and just under 20 with it on.
I also took it to O'riley just for them to check the battery and stuff w/o taking the alternator off. They said that the battery is about 50% full and it's not getting charged well enough, so it's slowly draining.

That said, we still don't know if its the alternator or the ignition switch right?

Where is the ignition switch and what do I do with it to see if it's working?

My other option is take the alternator off and run it back down to O'Riley.
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Old 12-27-2011, 02:30 PM
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anyone?
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:46 PM
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If you measured 20 volts with the engine off you need to get a better meter.

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.
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  #11  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:22 PM
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I am not sure what is causing the problem. I have seen it before with my SDL but it is a different issue.

I plugged in another car battery to charge thru the cigarette lighter outlet and when I switched off the car, I found all the warning lights came on similar to yours. I am not sure I had the exact light pattern. I removed the battery and all is well. That leads me to believe that you have a 12v feeding the lights even with the ignition in the off position. I would NOT think it is the alternator and more incline to think it is the ignition switch not killing the 12V to the lights. I would start from there.

Open the fuse box and see which fuse feeds the ignition switch or the dash. Remove that and see whether the lights go off. Or unplug the ignition switch and check.

Good luck.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

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  #12  
Old 12-27-2011, 04:53 PM
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so where exactly is the ignition switch located?
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  #13  
Old 12-27-2011, 05:01 PM
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Ignition is where you put in the key to start the car. It is an assembly fitted behind your ignition. Something similar to this. You can buy new or go to the junk yard and get some practice and pull an used one. It may not be the root cause but it is worth a try.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #14  
Old 12-27-2011, 05:05 PM
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so i need to go in from this direction to get to that switch? PeachPartsWiki: Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement
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  #15  
Old 12-27-2011, 05:11 PM
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No. That is to change the key lock like you door. The assembly is behind it. I have never done one myself. I think you need to remove the panel below the steering column and you should see it. You will get a better idea when you see it. Other members please chime in.

Always remove the negative battery terminal when you do electrical work just in case you short something with sparks flying.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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