So I pulled the thick hose out from the rear end of the engine at the driver's side (right next to the oil filter housing), to get to some things near my oil filter housing, and left it on top of the housing, only to notice it's cracked after a drive. Now I notice some smoke/steam leaking out (and now the cabin gets awful hot real quick). Is this a return line for the heating system, perhaps?

What's the best way to deal with it? Can I just seal it somehow? It's not a crack all the way through - just partially. I tried pulling another hose off my parts car, but it had a hard black metal collar underneath the hose clamp, and I couldn't, for the life of me, figure out how to get it off (unless I'm supposed to unscrew the nut it attaches to).

Well a quick fix might be self amalgamating tape

Self Amalgamating Tape

But if you have oil on the outer surface...

...you are better off replacing what's broken though

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Call Phill and order the hose. can`t be more than $8. call this morning and usually have the part the next day.
If that hose has a crack, most likely the reast are not far behind, order all and be done with it.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yes it's a heater hose and if it ruptures, you'll lose all your coolant very quickly (voice of experience, happened to me at -20 C).

For now I would suggest you get two hose clamps and a piece of houshold plumbing pipe, or a plumbing joint (the things they sell to join two pieces of garden hose will probably work), that will fit inside the hose. Cut the hose open at the leak and join the two pieces with the fitting and clamp it up.

You may have to trim the two sides of the hose back to make it fit, once you've cut it.

REMEMBER, if it starts to leak badly and you lose coolant your temp gauge will start to GO DOWN because the sensor is no longer contacting any coolant.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Here is the correct hose.

Hose
MB# 1268322894

copy and paste the part# into the search box.


.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I have a spare hose on a parts car. Just not quite sure how to get it off. There are two clamps, but the one near the engine block reveals a metal band that is not adjustable/removeable (looks like a black hose clamp, without the screw). At this point I'm not sure whether to tug at it, or if I need to get an adjustable wrench and take the whole nut out of the side of the engine block. Ideas?

I was able to loosen the nut on the engine block for the hose, but there is ZERO room between the firewall and the cabin wall for me to disconnect the heater hose at all. How do I remove it? Seems like i would have to pull the hard (metal) lines the other way. is there something I have to do from the inside (ie through the center console)?

We need pictures of these mystery clamps to answer your question.

I do not see how it is possible to remove the hose without at least loosening the clamp.



.

The heater hose is permanently attached to a nut that goes into the engine block. Used a chain wrench to loosen it up. Underneath the adjustable hose clamp on the heater hose, there is a black metal tie/strap that ties it permanently to the nut on the engine block. But it's loose now. I just need to pull it out from the heater core tubing.

Also noticed there was a removable part of the outer firewall. Gives me a bit more room to work with, I will check tomorrow if I can get the hoses off.

Nevermind, I was able to get the hose off after I removed the false outer firewall. Didn't really see the bolts when it was all dusty/greasy/rusty. Finally got the hose off the parts car. What I thought was a metallic band on one end was in fact an imprint of the hose clamp on the rubber. I just got a large wrench to remove it.