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#1
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OM617 Rear Seal Installation
I'm getting ready to swap oil pans on my 617.951 replacing it with an earlier pan for clearance issues. The picture shows the rear rope seal on the original pan. I'm only replacing the lower half of the seal, leaving the half in the block untouched. The specifications call for cutting the seal 1mm proud. As shown the rope seal in the original pan is about 1mm "un-proud" which I'm taking as evidence that when the engine was last assembled all the "excess" was on the block side, thus indenting the seal on the pan side rather than having both sides flush.
My question is, should I cut the new seal flush allowing the existing block-side seal to compress the new seal the required amount or follow the specifications and leave it proud 1mm? Sorry about the picture, it is my cheap "garage camera" that does pretty good for normal stuff but has trouble focusing close.
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#2
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Don't try and second guess the FSM on this one - I don't know how those role seals behave but imagine if they shrink after a while and you haven't got that extra bit...
This thread might help - Fitting rear crankshaft seal on an OM617
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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In my not so limited experience... failing to remove the block side seal, is foolhardy. go ahead and loosen up the crank, and replace both sides of the seal. leave both sides proud 1mm, and do it right.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#4
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ok so both sides of the seal CAN be replaced with the crank/engine/kitchen sink still in the car? I got someone that wants this done locally.
Would just doing the bottom stop a huge leak?
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08 R320 CDI current Past 95 E420 87 300D Turbo 5spd 90 300TE 83 300SD 85 300TD 92 400E 85 190D |
#5
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Now that you read the link ARMY posted in post#2. here is another good thread to read on replacing the rear seal.
Rear Crankshaft Rope Seal Replacement Without Removing Crank I really do not see how this can be done while still in the vehicle. If you can accomplish this, be sure to do a DIY with pictures. Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#6
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I'm not touching it with a ten foot pole!
It's just gonna leak forever lol. Thanks anyway
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08 R320 CDI current Past 95 E420 87 300D Turbo 5spd 90 300TE 83 300SD 85 300TD 92 400E 85 190D |
#7
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Chicken?
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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