Comprehensive 603 do's and don'ts to get the most out of stock performance - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

locry · #1 12-25-2011, 01:15 AM

Anybody care to list down tried and tested stuff to get things up to snuff to get that factory fresh clatter? (or lack of it)

Brian Carlton · #2 12-25-2011, 10:52 AM

With any 25 year old IP that has not been recalibrated:

Remove ALDA. Leave it off.

Brian Carlton · #3 12-25-2011, 10:55 AM

Find smaller vacuum line output from vacuum pump.

Line will go into a five way connector. Two of those lines will go to the right side of the vehicle. Disconnect and remove those two lines and plug the holes in the five way connector. Or, purchase and install a three way "F" connector.

vstech · #4 12-25-2011, 10:55 AM

should not timing stretch be measured and adjusted? also, injectors spray pattern tested and pop tested?

locry · #5 12-25-2011, 12:39 PM

Vacuum line plugging: DONE
Exhaust recirc omit: DONE

ALDA removal: NOT YET DONE...
though I DO have something weird going on concerning the ALDA, whenever I unplug the line going to the ALDA I get more low end torque, or so it seems. Part throttle is more "peppy", and as expected, I do not have any high end power, it plateaus... the reason why I disconnected the line? to try and see if smoke at idle is reduced... which it didn't. I'm still smoking at IDLE... annoying and conduct unbecoming.

currently driving with a disconnected ALDA (not removed)

Timing chain check/replace: NOT YET DONE... I hope this solves the smoking at IDLE.
What's the best way to go about this? Is chain guide replacement mandatory considering the car's age? If not, will removing the vacuum pump make feeding the chain less likely to jerk? I distinctly remember a sudden jerking when I fed my NA 603 a few years back. I want to avoid this jerking with my current engine.

INJECTOR POP/SPRAY PATTERN: DONE

what else?

engatwork · #6 12-25-2011, 12:54 PM

I just changed out the chain on my 285k mile E300. The guides were all changed out within the past couple years. I did not measure the stretch.

The replacement of the timing chain is a straight foward job.

a. Remove cam cover.
b. cut the pins on one of the chain links to allow you to separate it.
c. Remove the chain tensioner. You will need a new crush ring for when you put this back together. The tensioner is torqued to 80 Nm.
d. Hook the new chain to the old chain and roll it it. I used the old part that I pried off of the chain link to secure the master link while rolling it in. I have circled it in one of the pics.
e. When the new chain is in put the master link together and crimp the chain link pins to look like the other ones on the chain. There is a tool for this that makes it easier. With that said there are ways to do it without using the tool.
f. Put everything back together and you are good to go. If you don't do anymore than what I have shown with the fuel feed lines then it is easy to start.

Note the cleanliness of the engine in the photo. I contribute that the Mobile 1 Truck and Turbo Diesel engine oil

.

locry · #7 12-26-2011, 01:50 AM

Didn't you experience a sudden "jerk" when you were rolling the new chain in? I know I did, I'm just not sure if the vacuum pump had anything to do with it.

When I changed out the chain in my old car I wasn't prepared for that "jerk" that I almost let go of the chain... I did it solo, I was holding on to the chain while I was rotating the engine with my other hand... twas a head R&R the injectors were
not in the engine so I didn't have to fight compression... the jerk couldn't have come from compression.

aaa · #8 12-26-2011, 06:31 AM

Definitely was the vacuum pump there.