Quick question before I button everything up...

I've finally extracted that broken bolt that prevented me from attaching a damper to the belt tensioner, resulting in premature tensioner failure at 6mos. It was beginning to squeal and was visibly "cocked" to 1 side.

Anyway, I've attached and tightened the damper on the tensioner and found that tightening it effectively "locks" the damper with respect to the tensioner... is this how its supposed to be? or is it supposed to be loose enough to rotate freely?

I don't remember any sort of "sleeve" in there.

help

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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

Obviously needs to swivel during hunting. Image I found shows a metal bushing/center at both ends that is built or cast in, and therefore shouldn't have gone missing. I have about 1 mm clearance on each side (front and rear) at each end between the rubber insert and its constraining metal (clevis at bottom, cylinder head and washer at top.

Did you put it rod down (which is correct)?

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James Marriott
2003 Buick Regal
1983 300D (228k, frau Auto)
1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000)
www.engineeringworks.biz
1987 300SDL junker 170k
1982 300SD junker, 265k

yes, I also have that thick metal bushing with the surrounding rubber... the thing I'm concerned with is that when I tighten the bolt that holds the damper to the tensioner the prongs squeeze together ever so slightly... I know for a fact that I'm using a different bolt because my original one went missing, I do not remember if the bolt is threaded all the way. Mine is. Anyway, I installed it as is, though I didn't tighten it that much to avoid "squeezing" the prongs too much. I did place silicon on the bolt head to prevent it from unscrewing.

Same issue with the top BOLT, tightening the bolt enough will also prevent the damper from rotating freely...

Anyway, when I observed the "action" of the damper with everything buttoned up I realized that the damper range of movement/rotation is minimal, i think the "give" offered by the rubber in between the bushing and the damper end rings are enough.
I could be wrong though... in which case I think there should be a freely rotating sleeve/bushing between the bolt and the pressed-in-bushing of the damper that prevents over-tightening of the bolts... IF it's an issue at all.

I need confirmation.

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

What is the normal range of motion anyway? In my m104 the tensioner is fixed AFAIK, no springs that I know of that offers any damping/leeway, why is this? Why offer such damping in the 60x series of engines? Just curious...

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project

noise.

they did everything in their power to quiet up the Diesel motor.

can you post some pictures of the bolt you used, and the position you are in with the lock? with the tensioner bolt in and tight, it should pivot smoothly. are you perhaps forgetting a spacer?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The bolt is just a common bolt... threaded the entire length...
When I say "lock", it just means its super tight to rotate, but it can rotate with a bit of force. I'm thinking the proper bolt would be threaded at the end with the rest of shaft smooth, is this correct? If so I think the proper bolt when tightened stops itself at the exact point without "pinching/squeezing the prongs together... at least that's how I would've designed it... to prevent the damper from "locking" itself in place...
The thing is, that bolt is hard to come by... so I settled for the BOLT that I used... i'll change it out if I find a proper bolt.

About the spacer you mentioned... is there one? I do not remember there ever being a spacer... though design-wise that would've been the way to go... no danger of overtightening and no specialized bolts needed.

I did not tighten my bolts too much to restrict movement, but I did apply silicon to prevent them from unscrewing themselves (i hope)...

Observing it assembled with the engine running I see the tensioner arm moving, so at least I know it's doing its job and not too restricted (afaik)...

If the whole tensioner/damper/spring is just to lessen noise, then theoretically a "frozen in place" damper won't be a problem.

__________________

85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D) sold
87 300D (-->300TD) sold
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded
86 190E 2.3... current project