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  #1  
Old 12-29-2011, 09:29 PM
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First timer removing IP tomorrow. Any tips?

In order to take care of a smoking problem, I've decided to remove the IP and send it to a Bosch shop for calibration/tune up. New timing chain, IP timing adjustment, and pop testing the injectors hasn't done anything.

I've stumbled across a few tips and tricks about how to go about it.

My understanding is that I should advance the crank to 24BTDC on the compression stroke (#1's cam lobes up) in order to faciliate reinstallation.

I'll then have to remove the fuel lines (metal and plastic), the plunger rod, and disconnect the vacuum line.

After that, it's 4 13mm bolts - two on the top, one on the bottom, and one at the rear? I have the 90 degree wrench for this as well as the drip tube to set the timing when it comes back from the shop.

Is there anything else I need to know to remove it? Any tips to get myself in a better position to go about the reinstallation?

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2011, 11:37 PM
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Not sure what car you have, but it's a little more complicated than that. Also, for the 350sdl, you have to set it to 15ATDC. -- remember that it will hit that spot on two different rotations. I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU DON'T DO THIS UNTIL YOU BUY AN A-B TEST LIGHT!

I've got a 350sdl and removed several of them. By the way, for a little more than $1000, you can get a new one (parts of it may be remanufactured) and I bet you will spend about that to have yours redone. Anyway, that's the route I went. Comes from Germany so you have to be patient if you do that.

You have to take the front of the engine apart including the vacuum pump. (get a new gasket). Then you remove the cruise control actuator which is behind the pump and will keep you from pulling it back.

After that you need to remove the fuel lines. The one between the IP and block is a bugger - I just remove the hose from the fuel filter and then remove the other end when the IP is loose. (get new sealing washers for the hose ends). The diesel fuel will leak out, so plug them up.

You have to remove two hoses from the IP and one from the fuel pump. Then the individual

Then the electrical connectors. One on top of the IP (has a locking device that you have to turn before it will release). Then the electrical plug at the rear of the pump.

You have to insert a small metal basket into the vacuum pump opening to keep the chain in place. When this is in, you can remove the three bolts holding the IP in place. There is also a center bolt that you have to remove -- THIS IS A LEFT HAND THREAD.

After these are off, there are two bolts on the rear of the pump to the block.

Then the pump can be pulled back and out.

To put back in, you should get the pump locking device and lock it in place, put it back in - THEN REMOVE THE LOCKING DEVICE BEFORE TURNING THE ENGINE!!!!!!

Once the IP is back in, use the A-B light to get it right. Even if you used the locking device, it still won't be right and you need the A-B light to get the timing. Once you get the timing, you put everything back together and make sure you fill up the fuel filter with fuel and have your batter charged and it will start after a few long tries.

There is a little more to it, but that's pretty much the basics
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  #3  
Old 12-29-2011, 11:46 PM
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posting what car you are inquiring details about makes a big difference...

we can assume you are talking about the 240 in your sig line, but it's best to actually mention it in the question.
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  #4  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
posting what car you are inquiring details about makes a big difference...

we can assume you are talking about the 240 in your sig line, but it's best to actually mention it in the question.

Yes. The W115 mentioned in my signature. I assumed that would be a given.

My bad.
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  #5  
Old 12-30-2011, 07:58 AM
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This one post doesn't make sense to me.

"I pretty much copied exactly what was said in the Manual. I would read the very last pargaraph "note" first as that explains why you are setting the crank at a different degree setting.
The driver is the splined gear on the Fuel Injectin Pump shaft.

From Mercedes Service Manual Engines OM615-617

Set crankshaft to the following values in compression stroke of first cylinder.
615.913 47 Degrees before TDC
615.912 45 degrees before TDC
616 45 Degrees before TDC.

Set injection pump to begin of delivery. For this purpose, keep turning the pump shaft until tooth gap on the driver and the marking on the injection pump are in alignment.
When applying slight pressure on the driver towards the left (opposite to the direction of rotation) the driver will jump back 2 teeth to basic cam circle under the influence of the pressure-loaded camshaft of the camshaft.The 2nd tooth should now be in alignment with the mark on the injection pump housing. Prior to installing the injection pump. Check ounce again whether crankshaft is at 47 degrees before compression TDC of engines 615.913. Or 45 degrees of 615.912 and 616.)

Note: The adjustment of the crankshaft to 47 degrees or 45 degrees before compression TDC is required because the driver has been taken back 2 Teeth. "

W115 240d Injection pump re-installation timing question.

The OP in that thread had a problem getting his IP spline to stay line up with the mark on the IP housing. It wanted to spring back a few notches.


Instead of leaving the crank at 24BTDC, I should set it to 45 BTDC to compensate for the spring action of the IP?

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