Hello folks,
I am new to this forum and also a new 1987 300D owner. I just acquired this 300D in Nov. 2011. So far I did:
1. injector purge (thanks for the info from this forum)
2. replaced all brake pads (easy stuff)
3. adjusted the transmission modulator due to shifting harsh, later found out one of the vacuum nipple broke off at the bottom of the transmission transducer, aka BFS, so I just tape it of. I am still trying to find out more info on how to totally disable the BFS.
4. changed the oil and filter
5. changed the transmission fluid and filter.

New problem:
#4 hard line is leaking at the injector end. I came home on a trip and detected excessive diesel smell. I opened the engine compartment and found fuel leak on top of the #4 injector. I put wrench on it, but it was tight. I took the line off and cleaned the end with scott-brite, that did not help either. I can see diesel shooting out at the top of nut and not at the return lines.
Questions:
1. Is this a common problem with the hard line leaking? I noticed my #6 is also new (from the last owner)
2. can the injector cause the leak instead of the line?
3. Where can I order a new hard line, or can I manufacture one myself?
4. is diesel suppose to run real loud? I am new to this so I cannot compare, my friends told me it is louder than normal, but what is normal for 1987 model year?

Thanks for your comments and input.

You might have a small crack in the hard line, I have a 190D and one of my hard lines at the fitting that goes in the top of the injector broke off, you might check there. How about a video of your car running so we can hear if it is too loud.

A cracked Hard Line happens once in a while. It happens more often if the Clamps that keep the Hard Lines from vibrating are mission or broken.

The Hard Line needs to be replaced.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

i had the exact same issue on my '82. if you back the nut off of the injector only, the crack may not be visible unless there is clearance between the injector and line.

__________________
john
***********
'98 E300 TD "Lukas" 156K
'11 C300 "Mia" 10K, Gorgeous!, Wifey's Car

thanks guys, all the plastic clamps are in placed..... No matter what I did, the leak is still there, so I have the number 4 hard line on order, it won't be here until the end of the week due to new year ($39.00 on-line... ouch), my local MBZ dealer wants $71.00 for the hard line.

Nothing to it. Take the line from the VCV on the side of the IP that goes to the BFS and route it directly the transmission modulator. Look for the line attached to the top off-center of the BFS. Both the line from the VCV and the line to the modulator have a cylindrical green damper. You only need one damper but I believe it's directional.

It happens. When it leaks at that fitting, most likely the fitting was overtightened deforming the ball and socket seal. Not having proper alignment of the line and injector when tightening the nut can cause the line to rub against the nut eventually causing a leak. The line is already weak where it's swedged into a ball.

I suppose but I've never heard of it. It's more common for an injector to leak between casing halves when corrosion forms between halves. It's strange how a leak can develop after 200-300K miles of not leaking. Seems a more common problem when running WVO without proper 'dewatering.'

Define loud. A lazy lifter or tired belt damper will cause a clacking sound at idle. With the engine running, put pressure on the upper attachment of the belt damper. Push down on the attachment or pry the attachment away from the head. If that quiets the clacking, you need a new damper. MB brand seem to last twice as long as other brands without costing twice as much.

If you see an oil leak by the chain tensioner and #1 exhaust runner and/or a grimy alternator, there's a good chance the head gasket is failing. Debris from the disintegrating head gasket gets into the oil passages feeding the hydraulic lash adjusters. If there's no other indication of a failing head gasket, running synthetic oil for 10-15k miles often quiets the lash adjusters.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks Sixto, I will try the BFS today, thanks for the info.
As far as I know, there's no oil leak at all, so I will check the belt damper then I will try synthetic oil.
Is it hard to change the belt damper?

It's not difficult to change the damper after you've done it a few times At least once in the relationship with your car you should avoid shortcuts. Remove the radiator shroud, fan, belt and tensioner pulley to get to the damper. If the tensioner arm doesn't pivot smoothly and/or clicks as it pivots, replace it. If the tensioner arm wobbles or doesn't hold the pulley in the same plane as the other belt pulleys, replace it. If the tensioner pulley doesn't spin smoothly and/or makes any noise when spinning, replace it. If the tensioner pulley wobbles, replace it. While you're in there, if the vacuum pump doesn't have 4 screws holding the front cover, consider that it might be the type with open cam follower bearings, a poor design with the potential to fail with catastrophic effect. If you think you'll be working on the front of the engine in the future, consider the 2-piece radiator shroud which can be removed without removing the fan. It's the only shroud the dealer sells for your car. List price was a reasonable $70 3-4 years ago.

The process takes an hour's typing to explain 10 minutes of work. Check the archives for tips or ask and I'll find the time to type.

Sixto
87 300D

wow, sixto... you need to brush up on your typing skills! an hour to type 6 lines?

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

But I have to raid DaveM/gsxr's website and check how much tools cost at Harbor Freight. Every manual based on a complete teardown and rebuild

Sixto
87 300D

Hello Sixto and everyone else,

I've tried to disconnect the vacuum transducer (BFS) but there are several other vacuum lines that goes in and out of the vacuum transducer. what do I do with the rest of them.
If someone has instructions how to disconnecting the BFS with pic that would be awsome.

How do you take a picture of something that isn't there?

I'll try to respect John by keeping this under six lines:

1) Take the elbow fitting from the BFS TRAN port and attach it to the VCV forward port atop the green cylinder, along with the black line that continues to the transmission modulator. BFS is defeated.

2) Run a line from the split upstream of the VCV center port to the bigger line that tucks behind the fuse box. This goes to a vacuum reservoir in the fender. Mind the step-up adapter for the bigger reservoir line somewhere near the BFS. The option is to replace the splitter with a straight fitting and forego the reservoir. I don't notice a difference without the reservoir but mine is hooked up and holds vacuum.

3) Replace the splitter at the ALDA with a straight fitting to remove the boost signal to the BFS. Or as I did, use the branch to route a signal line to a boost gauge in the cabin.

4) If you want a cleaner engine bay, remove the BFS and associated hardware. The VSV has a wire from the 50*C temp switch by the thermostat. I replaced the temp switch with an afterglow temp sensor for a 602.962 when I upgraded to an afterglow relay. The wire goes to the fifth pin in the afterglow relay small connector.

Sixto
87 300D

The attached image is a graphic representation. The stuff in pink is associated with the BFS. I drew my own diagonal line linking the VCV with the transmission. You only have to keep one of the cylindrical green dampers. The stuff in orange is the emissions equipment that isn't necessary for the protracted diagnostic work and off-road driving some forum members do.

The source diagram is in the first link of this post - Vacuum Diagrams. It doesn't show the vacuum reservoir my 87 300D has and sold 87 300SDL had.

Sixto
87 300D

Attached Thumbnails