3/2 vacuum valves 300D
 

I need to find both 3/2 vacuum valves but am turning up nothing. I found one place that has them for $60 a piece shipped! If I can't find any I am thinking about blocking all that off. I've heard that it doesn't affect the way the transmission shifts but I'm wondering if the kickdown will still work?

Does anyone know? Thanks in advance.

Yep. It'll work. I blocked mine off temporarily until the spring, and my kickdown still works great.

The little Valves are there to control the EGR.
The only effect they have on the Transmission is when they become a source of a Vacuum Leak.

If you still want to retain the Valves and only the Levers are worn they sell the Lever by themselves.

Depending on what year car you have, they can be completely eliminated.

It's an 83, 300D. Thanks for the replies! That's exciting news and much cheaper, lol! I'm just going to block it off and leave it all on there just in case I ever want to put it back together.

This forum is the best! Thanks again!

You don't need to plug off the egr valve or the thermo valve as I did in the first pic, but make sure any connections on the other end are secured, I just used different connectors.

I should have checked this again before I jumped into it. I plugged off the EGR at the gasket and put BB's in the connector's. Same principal but I guess I didn't have to do the EGR. But it's done now! LOL!
I would have replaced the levers but the plastic was cracked on both vacuum valves. Now it's time for valve's, tranny service, tires, window seals and then I'm driving!

Yes, same principle, if the valve doesn't get any vacuum, it won't open, done.

I'm almost there! Today should finish off the project. I bought this car for $500 with almost mint interior, nice paint, very little rust. To get the maintenance caught up and fix issues is $1000. Repairs done so far:
-Valve adjust and gasket
-Motor mount replace (driver side, doing passenger soon just to be safe)
-Oil pan and gasket (obviously oil filter and oil change also)
-oil breather tube repair
-banjo bolt cleaning
-front shocks
-Front and rear window seals (had a pro do this, $60 per window)
-Vacuum EVERYTHING (leaves and crap under hood, coins and stuff in interior)
-Leave all doors and trunk open for a week to dry it out
Repairs to finish today:
-power steering filter and flush
-diesel purge
-rear shocks
-tires
-tranny service
DRIVE! Thanks for the help!

Keep us posted and include pics if you can.

Mine mysteriously disappeared long ago and I've never noticed any issues as a result of their disappearance. ;)

banjo bolt 87,300TD
 

:eek:Looked for an hour for that Banjo bolt cannot seem to find it, was told it is behind the intake manifold...by the alda can't find that either. Was hoping to clean it after 115,000 miles. How important I don't know but seems to smoke blue when started and runs noiser than normal..

I've never had an 87 so I don't know if it has a banjo bolt or not. Throw a post up on the forum and someone should chime in.

You need to be a bit careful about what you read on here. Some of it is flat out wrong, and a good bit of other info doesn't detail which engine is being referred to. It's as though the writer believes his five cylinder diesel is the only M/B engine on the planet.

In your case, the 603 engine in your vehicle doesn't have the mysterious "banjo bolt" for you to clean. It has a port that extends directly out of the manifold on the left side of the vehicle. What you could clean is the overboost protection valve. Follow the hose from the manifold to the electrical device at the end of the hose. This device can clog over time and prevent the boost pressure from reaching the ALDA.

Cleaning this device will not affect the blue smoke or the noise on start.

green cans
 

What are the small green cans for? I removed one and blew thru both ends so it is not a one way valve..