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#31
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#32
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#33
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The wiring to the door runs through a strong reinforced black sheath. I checked from door window switch through the concertina and down the pillar to the floor and there is no damage to the wire sheath and it is not grounding anywhere that I could see. I also checked for a ground from the blue switch wire (socket 5) using both socket 4 (brown) and the door itself. No ground with door open or closed! So why do we get a short when the door opens? The only other thing that changes, is the door switch. It has separate wiring and seems to operate the courtesy light properly. I wish I had looked for the short when I had the car interior totally stripped a month or so ago! My next step will be to see if I can find where the blue wire to that door connects to the main switch and disconnect it. Diagram shows it comes right out of the console window switch socket 5.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#34
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OK I found the problem.
Only thing that made sense, was that the wiring in the door pillar was shorting. I set up my meter so it plugged into blue/brown sockets of window switch. Then tried jiggling the 4-wire harness is sections. I finally found that jiggling the section inside the pillar caused a short. I opened up the woven covering down at the base of the pillar and cut the blue wire. I had in mind to pull it out and run a new separate wire. When I pulled from the switch end, I got a piece about 12" long. And other end had not moved! Pulled it the other way and it was clear it had been broken inside sheath for some time. I then cut all the wires at the pillar base and pulled the harness out from switch end. All but one wire were mangled. Yet the outside sheath showed no sign of this! I don't know what did that to the wires inside the pillar. Only things I know of in there are the door lightswitch and the bracket for the door check. I will have a look with borescope, although the one I have is not too good in tight places. I may run new wires or perhaps just splice the existing. But I need a better sheath. Maybe use some heat shrink? I need something that can be fed in and make some tight turns - Probably why they used the woven type.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#35
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Thats great! You just saved me some troubleshooting time. Could it be that the seat belt mechanism had something to do with it? Im thinking run the 4 wires inside a viton hose.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
#36
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I could not see much up inside of pillar, but I could feel some sharp edges. Perhaps back of welds for doorcheck bracket. But not sure. What I did, was run a new 3 conductor wire plus a single separate wire for the ground (brown)- that way the live wires can't come into contact with the ground wire. The 3-conductor wire has a PVC jacket which is much better than that mesh cover the car originally had. The mesh really provides no protection. I put disconnects up near the door switch. This will hopefully make it easier to take door off next summer for some rust repair on seal channel. I tested the dash lights a few minutes ago after I closed everything back up. They stay on regardless of which door I open! Seems to me, that that short in door is what destroyed the traces on the cluster circuit board.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 Last edited by Graham; 10-08-2013 at 10:45 AM. |
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