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  #76  
Old 03-02-2012, 08:59 PM
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What brand of starter should I get? Or, more specifically, which brands should I avoid? Ideally I'd get a Bosch, but I wanna know which other brands are ok to go with too.

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  #77  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:56 AM
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While I was at work yesterday my husband pulled the starter and took it to get bench-tested. Tested fine. So what's the problem? I have no idea. Stay tuned...
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  #78  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:44 AM
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Well, the question would be what specifically happens when you turn the key to start?
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  #79  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yumeko-chan View Post
Went around looking for more price quotes. Went over to Abra Body and Glass today to get a quote on replacing my rear windshield seal. They quoted me at $300 Labor, new seal, new chrome trim. They said I'm free to supply my own parts, which'll knock down the price. But geez, are they paying dealer prices for those parts?! Oy! No reason for it to be $300! At that price I may as well just fork out the extra $150 and get new glass too!

I had a problem with the trunk getting damp on the left side and noticed moisture inside along the bottom edge of the glass.
removed the window, found some rust, cleaned it up and treated it with POR etc...

I picked up the gasket from my Indy, had the glass all cleaned and ready for the install. called a local Mobile glass installer (won`t use him again) and he installed it here at the house.
I asked him why he didn`t use any sealer, and he said MB doesn`t use a sealer. HMMMM.... well I removed it because of wetness, and this was in October about 7 yrs ago. rained than night, and I had more water in the trunk than before.

I picked up a tube of uethane sealer in a caulking tube like the glass guys use. lifted up the edge of the seal and squirted in the goop across the top and down the sides. been dry ever since.

His charge was $150.00, probably more now.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

QUOTE<

Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu
When did Colorado turn into a desert?

Then sprinkle some water on the ground around the car when you get through, and the evaporating moisture will speed up the curing process.

Charlie

Yes, it's quite dry here. Enough that during the summer you can always tell who the tourists are because they'll ask where the lotion is! My first trip out to LA was quite a shock, as I could feel the humidity when I got off the plane. Tokyo's even worse! And no, I've never been to the Deep South, but I've heard stories.


Humidity in Japan? you bet. I was in Yokosuka end on 63 when I was in the Navy, and in a transit barricks on the way to the ship I was assigned to. I do remember the Humidity there.
there are tunnels that were dug through the mountains by hand, could see all the pick marks. was told this was when Japan was preparing for war, and think they went all the way to Tokyo.
we would sit in front on a tunnel, and the cold air blowing out of them was like an air conditioner.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #80  
Old 03-05-2012, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRider View Post
Well, the question would be what specifically happens when you turn the key to start?
I hear the starter go "reeeeer!!" but the engine itself does nothing.
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  #81  
Old 03-05-2012, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yumeko-chan View Post
I hear the starter go "reeeeer!!" but the engine itself does nothing.
Is the bendix operating correctly? Another unpleasant problem could be stripped teeth on the flywheel/flexdisk.

If you do end up needing a new starter I remember something green was a good brand.
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  #82  
Old 03-05-2012, 03:48 PM
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I am in the process of getting a starter from Advance Auto. Also gonna replace the positive battery cable and terminal clamp (unrelated but overdue to be done, the clamp is rusted and the cable is corroded). I do not know about the bendix, I will have to ask my husband about that.
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  #83  
Old 03-05-2012, 09:06 PM
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Went and got the new (i.e. remanufactured) starter, and we discovered it was indeed the bendix. You could push it around easily with your finger and on the "new" one, it wouldn't budge. So it seems that was the problem all along! Husband admits he was worried because he'd had the old one bench-tested yesterday and it tested fine. So as soon as he gets some free time during daylight hours (no garage), he's gonna pop that one in and hopefully we'll be good to go
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  #84  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:36 PM
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My husband got the "new" starter in, along with a replacement battery cable, but the battery was dead so I currently have it on the charger. And of course I found one more thing I need to do: get a replacement battery tray

Oh, and I do NOT need to worry about the speedometer cable: the weird howling stopped after I got new belts put on just before the starter went out.
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  #85  
Old 03-06-2012, 02:35 PM
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IT LIVES!!
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  #86  
Old 03-06-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yumeko-chan View Post
IT LIVES!!


My 240D's starter (or something) is making a pretty brutal grinding sound on start too now. That's the least of its worries but may be doing a starter replacement soon too.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #87  
Old 03-07-2012, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post


My 240D's starter (or something) is making a pretty brutal grinding sound on start too now. That's the least of its worries but may be doing a starter replacement soon too.
um, you need to shut it down until you're ready to do the replacement. that grinding sound, most likely is the chewing up of the gear on your flywheel. so, unless you plan on replacing that soon, too . . . suggest you don't start it at all.
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  #88  
Old 03-07-2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piccolovic View Post
um, you need to shut it down until you're ready to do the replacement. that grinding sound, most likely is the chewing up of the gear on your flywheel. so, unless you plan on replacing that soon, too . . . suggest you don't start it at all.
Don't worry, it's not going anywhere soon! It's also leaking fuel from the IP and lines and I won't be driving it until I've addressed those problems as well as the starter. The grinding starter only happened the last two times I started it. It sat for a few months while I struggled with the coolant leaks on and off ... actually the first time I started it up following that work, there was no grinding noise. I pulled it out into the driveway, let it run a bit, shut it down to check for leaks ... then when I started it back up to bleed the cooling system, I got the grind. Later when I went to pull it back into the garage, grind again. But, I haven't started it since ...
Sorry to hijack the thread.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #89  
Old 03-09-2012, 11:22 AM
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I'm looking everywhere for a rear windshield seal, but it seems like everyone only has the URO one! I'm hearing lately that all URO-brand stuff sucks, so I'd like to get the OEM one. Anyone know where to get one besides the dealership?
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  #90  
Old 03-09-2012, 11:31 AM
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I am not about to vouch for URO, but I did a couple of these with aftermarket seals and they went OK ( Meyle, I think). If you have to use URO, at least it's not something like flex discs or tie rods. I personally would not rule out URO for THIS if the price is significantly less than MB ( which it may well be)

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