Hello All ,

I have a 1987 300D, i want to know how to pump diesel after you clean your Diesel tank and change the pre-filter and the spin on filter, cause what I've seen today , theirs no priming pump located in the F.I.P, and is it a self bled system or do we have to bleed from the injectors ???

If you do not have a Hand Primer and you do not want to rig up some sort of primer Pump to fill up the Fuel Lines going up to the Fuel Injection Pump in theory you are left with Cranking the Engine with hope it does not ruin your Battery or Starter.

I suppose jacking up the Rear of the Car so the Tank is higher than the Fuel Injection Pump would help.

As You said loosening the Fuel Injection Line Nuts will help Bleed the Air out faster and may tell you if you are getting enough Fuel to attempt to start.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

But I heard that the spin on filter needs to be filled with diesel initially and the engine cranked,after it starts , it automatically sucks diesel from the tank through the prefilter and eventually into the pump to the spin on and to the injectors ....

You can always hook up a mity vac with a catch container on the return line and suck full through the system, just like you do when using a mity vac to bleed the brakes. This won't prime the injector lines but will prime the rest of the system.

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The manual says to crank for a minute at a time with the pedal at WOT, resting for 5-10 minutes to cool the starter. If you do, disconnect the glow relay for more current to the starter until you hear the engine try to start. Don't be fooled by that little lift pump. It will collapse the fuel tank if the fuel tank isn't properly vented. But maybe that doesn't take much effort

Sixto
87 300D

Filling the filter is a big help, that engine does not have a hand primer, so crank away.

Did He remove the Spin-on Filtet? If He did it is a good idea to Fill it.

Even with the Spin-on Filter Filled there is an awful lot of Air that is going to pass through the Fuel Injection Pump if the Fuel Tank was drained completely and filled with Fuel.
The Air Bleed System may or may not be able to deal with that much Air.

I wish the Original Poster the best of luck.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

you could always do what I did today and put an inline fuel pump right before the clear filter...

I used a carter p61295s, stuck the poss in the batt and touched the negative to a ground until I had the system full... this was on my w123 but should work the same. Tempting to put it in place permanently just to never have to worry about it again...

Not a bad idea to use one of the electric lift pump or feed pump cause all you have to do is to hook up to the battery and turn your ignition on and it sucks in fuel ,filling the lines up to the spin on and ready. but then whats the point if it continues to do so when the engine's up and running , we might waste a lot of battery. is there some thing like a cut off/ but again filling the spin on and bleeding each injector and starting the vehicle should not be a bad idea!!! any better clarity on this

If you are careful & have an air compressor.
Disconnecting the return line from the filter, you can apply low pressure air to the return line. This will pressurize the fuel tank just a little. You will hear air coming out the tank breather, dont worry. In time you will have fuel coming out the return fitting on the filter. Re-attach the return line to the filter quickly & carefully. Fuel will try & come out the return line once you remove the air line.
This will do most of the bleeding .

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

It would be nice to have one for priming. Since your system is self bleeding there is actually a tiny hole in the Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve. That would allow an Electric Fuel Pump move Fuel all the way through your Fuel supply system and even back to your Fuel Tank.
That means it would eventually Fill and empty Spin-on Fuel Filter.

However, if you look at the inexpensive $40-$50 Electric Fuel Pumps sold at the Chain Auto Parts stores you find that the threads parts are 1/8 or 1/4 inch Pipe threads.

By the time you connect the Jags/Nipples the ID is decreased. And, I do not believe these little Fuel Pumps will supply the flow needed to run the Vehicle if the Pump was left inline with the regular Fuel system.

If there was some Valve in the system that would allow you to use the Electric Pump only for priming the flow issue would not be a problem.
Or simply hook the Pump up and remove it when done priming.

The other option is to spend the money for an Electric Fuel Pump that can handle the Flow and Pressure needs; there is more than one Thread on that.

Most of the Fuel that flows through the Fuel Supply System is used to cool the Fuel Injection Pump Housing before it goes back to the Fuel Tank.
To me this means it is possible to put on an Electric Fuel Pump that would run the Engine OK but the flow could sill be deficient for cooling the Fuel Injection Pump.

I believe the Service Manual has how much flow the Stock Pump is supposed to put out in it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes i do have a compressor , its a good idea to blow the air using very low pressure.but then is there a vent or tank breather that air or fuel starts to leak from , so i get a confirmation the lines are bled.

again, different engine but I always crack the lines at the injectors and prime till I see fuel.

Yes there is a vent & as I said you will hear air coming out it.
When fuel comes out the fitting that you disconnected the return line from you know you have bleed the lines.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving