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  #1  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:37 AM
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w140 94 fuel leak w/pic

Hey.

(I borrowed the pic from another post here on the forum)

I have a 94 s350 TD, and the car is leaking diesel from the two points on the picture(from what I can tell anyway) It's not flowing from the leakage but it's running slowly down the side of the engine and then drips of the bottom. Anyone who knows what the problem might be? And what the two parts really is?

Thanks!
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w140 94 fuel leak w/pic-w140-fuel-leak.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 01-24-2012, 10:51 AM
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Looks like classic delivery valve o ring leakage symptoms.
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  #3  
Old 01-24-2012, 01:40 PM
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Looks like you're spot on. So I need new o-rings, copper seal disc and a tool for the valves. Got the part nr for the tool, but anyone got part nr(or size) of o-rings and seals?

Thanks again!
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  #4  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:18 PM
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Use the Buy Parts link at the top of the page.

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87 300D
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  #5  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:22 PM
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The rotation of the delivery valves is critically important, right?

-J
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  #6  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:24 PM
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The tightening sequence for the holders is, yes.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #7  
Old 01-24-2012, 03:59 PM
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In regards to torque or making sure the unit is centred when you tighten the holder after you're done? ....Probably both I guess
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:59 PM
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The procedure is in the archives. Something like tighten to 25Nm, back off, tighten to 25Nm, back off, tighten to 35Nm, set locking tab. There might even be a wait time involved. Make sure the cylinder goes in the same way it came out. There is a notch around one end. The notch goes either up or down in the delivery valve. Don't forget to lube the o-rings with fuel before installation.

Sixto
87 300D

Last edited by sixto; 01-24-2012 at 09:48 PM.
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  #9  
Old 01-24-2012, 09:01 PM
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My only (additional) advice is to do all six while you're in there. The first three can be done with the intake on but the back three cannot, and also plan on having a pile of towels under the IP while you do it, fuel will come out!
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  #10  
Old 01-24-2012, 09:34 PM
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-parts-reference-library/181759-om603-970-injection-pump-output-re-seal.html

Delivery Valve Seal Replacement

You should not need to remove the intake to change out all six. I did not remove mine. The o-ring and copper seal are very cheap.
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Last edited by ah-kay; 01-24-2012 at 09:41 PM. Reason: typo
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  #11  
Old 01-25-2012, 04:40 PM
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Wow...gotta say I'm impressed by the help I'm getting on this forum

Anyways, so I got the copper seals today which they had in stock. Going to order the rest of the parts tomorrow. However they told me there was no o-ring on the delivery valves, which I assume there really is on this enginge(603.971)?

I found the part nr for the o-ring(W0133-1644285) so I'll send him the nr tomorrow as well.
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  #12  
Old 02-01-2012, 03:20 PM
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Hi again.

So I considered letting the dealers do the job of replacing the delivery valve seals. But they would charge me at least 850$ for the job.....yeah. Anyway I need to replace one glow plug. So I figure I'll do both jobs myself, and remove the intake manifolds for ease.

Couple of questions though;

1: I would like to clean the area before starting. What's good to use, brake cleaner?

2: There is no manual fuel primer on my car (603), do you reckon it would be sufficient to keep the lines a bit loose on the injector side and cranck the car a couple times until diesel reaches the injector?
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2012, 04:28 PM
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1) You'll use a lot of brake parts cleaner unless you buy it in industrial quantities. Very diluted Simple Green is more economical. Rinse it off quickly because it will pit aluminum.

2) You don't need one. Your plan is how I do it. I tighten the lines as they get wet with fuel. 2 or 3 cranks of 10 seconds and the engine runs on its own.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #14  
Old 02-01-2012, 05:13 PM
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Ok thanks!

Don't have Simple Green in my country, but some kind of degreaser will probably do the same job.
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