Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-05-2012, 05:44 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Valrico, Florida
Posts: 207
W123 AL129X Alternator upgrade wiring

Hey guys,


So I've read the big thread on the alternator upgrade, but I swear I could not find an answer to this question. I bought the AL129X alternator to install in my 1984 MB 300D. I'm installing a stereo so I need the extra juice. Any way, I'm going to be upgrading the grounds while I'm in there so I have a bunch of thick gauge wiring ready to go. Anyway, I know the smaller, blue wire is the remote, which I can just splice in to the existing one and be good on that. However, there's the issue of the power wires.

I know most reading on wiring upgrade only mentions the wire going from the alternator to the battery. However, I thought I saw mention of a second power wire going to the starter from the alternator. Is that correct? And is that wire necessary to upgrade?

Like I said, I read the thread, and I even remember one time reading a thread where someone asked this exact question, but now I can't find it. Thanks for any help guys!

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:11 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Valrico, Florida
Posts: 207
Ok guys, so I looked through the thread and I found mention of a couple of different methods. One person mentioned upgrading the wiring between the alternator and the little power distribution block on the fender well.

The other method was doing the wiring directly. I think I like the method of upgrading the wiring between the block and alternator. On the other hand, I'm a bit confused which post goes to which. This is the back of the alternator I own.

http://i24.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/01/d5/bef2_35.JPG

I was under the impression the smaller post was for the remote wires, and the larger one was for the power leads. Is this correct?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-06-2012, 11:10 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,841
I don't know what you mean by remote...

the smaller wire is the voltage sense wire. it powers the field in the alternator to get it to produce current, then it tells the voltage regulator how much voltage to put out, it also lights the bulb in the dash when the alt is putting out less voltage than the battery has...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-06-2012, 11:11 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,841
the large wire (s) feed the battery, and the starter.
so in addition to the upgrading the wire from the alt to the terminal block, you need to upgrade the wire from the starter to the battery.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-06-2012, 06:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Valrico, Florida
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I don't know what you mean by remote...

the smaller wire is the voltage sense wire. it powers the field in the alternator to get it to produce current, then it tells the voltage regulator how much voltage to put out, it also lights the bulb in the dash when the alt is putting out less voltage than the battery has...
Ahhh, I see now. I mistook that wire for the remote lead for electrical accessories.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
the large wire (s) feed the battery, and the starter.
so in addition to the upgrading the wire from the alt to the terminal block, you need to upgrade the wire from the starter to the battery.
Gotcha. So if I understand correctly, I'd need to run 2 thicker wires from the terminal block, to the larger post on the alternator, and then a thicker cable from the battery + terminal to the starter? Now, being that I'm doing this for an audio application, is the terminal block going to create like a bottle neck area or should that be okay? I know generally when upgrading the wiring for car stereo, the norm is to run thicker wire directly from the alt to the battery for maximum current flow.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:21 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,841
Hmmm. I don't know.
it all depends on the current abilities of the block... on my 87, I took the harness from a 300E with a 135amp alt, and upgraded...
using the al129, in a 123, I'd think the terminal block could handle the current, as it handles the STARTER's draw... but I may not be looking at it correctly. I have not upgraded a 123 yet. I agree, it's the battery that needs the current capabilities of the alt upgraded, the starter's draw should be sized correctly FROM the battery, but the alt wire going to the starter needs to be large enough to handle the current ...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:30 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Valrico, Florida
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Hmmm. I don't know.
it all depends on the current abilities of the block... on my 87, I took the harness from a 300E with a 135amp alt, and upgraded...
using the al129, in a 123, I'd think the terminal block could handle the current, as it handles the STARTER's draw... but I may not be looking at it correctly. I have not upgraded a 123 yet. I agree, it's the battery that needs the current capabilities of the alt upgraded, the starter's draw should be sized correctly FROM the battery, but the alt wire going to the starter needs to be large enough to handle the current ...
I think I'm starting to see now. Thanks for all of the information so far. It's been really helpful. Let me ask you, from what you know, would there be a major issue with just running a large gauge wire from the alternator to the battery, and either another large gauge wire from the alt to the starter, or from the battery to the starter? The idea being to bypass the terminal block? I was doing some google searching and found this thread...

stan's 1980 300TD

It looks like that guy just did the direct wiring and it didn't cause him any issues. I'm just trying to figure out of the terminal block interfaces with any other electronics or anything. Thanks again for your help so far.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-07-2012, 08:38 AM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,544
I left the stock dist block-> starter wiring in place and made 2 new cables:

2ga from the AL129X-> Battery

2ga from the AL129X Housing -> Chassis

I left the stock Battery->dist block in place
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-07-2012, 10:27 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by haromaster87 View Post
I think I'm starting to see now. Thanks for all of the information so far. It's been really helpful. Let me ask you, from what you know, would there be a major issue with just running a large gauge wire from the alternator to the battery, and either another large gauge wire from the alt to the starter, or from the battery to the starter? The idea being to bypass the terminal block? I was doing some google searching and found this thread...

stan's 1980 300TD

It looks like that guy just did the direct wiring and it didn't cause him any issues. I'm just trying to figure out of the terminal block interfaces with any other electronics or anything. Thanks again for your help so far.
the terminal block doesn't have anything to do with the electronics afaik, it's just a mounting point for the alt wiring to the starter. power goes from the starter back to the battery, with the stock wire, so if you powered the battery directly with the new alt, and left the starter wire, and the dist block out of the loop... all the electronics should be unaffected. however, the block needs to stay, as the purple wire from the glow plug relay gets it's signal from there to know when the starter has been energized...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-24-2016, 10:31 AM
JHZR2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,270
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
I left the stock dist block-> starter wiring in place and made 2 new cables:

2ga from the AL129X-> Battery

2ga from the AL129X Housing -> Chassis

I left the stock Battery->dist block in place

The cables to the battery are all wrapped tight. Did you pull the OE cable and fish a new one through, or just zip tie or affix the new cable some other way?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page