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#1
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More A/C bracket issues ... getting it back on
Is it normally an absolute bear to get the bracket for the 240D's York A/C compressor bracket back in place? I can't get the bolts in front to line up, and I'm pretty sure I stripped the threads on the one that holds the water pump housing down. That bolt seemed to go in place and turn easily, but pretty far in it ceased to move inward any more ... despite still turning. I'm almost positive it is the right bolt and I'm pretty sure it never had a spacer or anything. I tried prying it into place with a pry bar, pushing it all over, even sticking my leg in the engine compartment to push on it and pry on it at the same time. None of the other bolts will start because they're off kilter. Is it normally this much of a pain? Really frustrated because I got the water pump and water pump housing all cleaned up and back on, but can't finish the job because the bracket won't go back on. I can add pictures if it helps, but I'm at work for the rest of the night.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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Damn, I wish I'd have know you were doing this before you started. I've got a thread on here somewhere explaining how to grind away enough of the bracket to remove the water pump without removing the bracket. Sorry, can't help on the reinstallation.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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That's OK, I had to remove the whole housing because it was leaking between the housing and block, plus I already had to take the bracket off to get to the thermostat housing bolts. I think that's why the WP housing was leaking anyway, because I pressure tested the system without that bolt in that holds the A/C bracket to the water pump housing ... I didn't realize that bolt also holds the housing to the block. Part of the problem is, I started this project so long ago I can't remember what was where before I took it apart (I should have taken notes/pictures).
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
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OK, I got it back on after work last night. The bolt I thought had cross-threaded wasn't, it was just wedged funny between the bracket and housing. I'm not even sure how to describe the process I used to get it back on other than perseverence and agony. I got the bottom bolt through the water pump housing, then tried tightening the side bolts while prying the bracket into position using a screwdriver in the large front bolt hole. Eventually I got the second water pump housing bolt in, then the top front ones. Really a pain. I hope it doesn't leak but I'm prepared for that possibility since it sat for 9 hours not fully torqued down with the RTV curing. We'll see.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
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