These photos are of driver and passenger rear pans. I don't know much about suspension, but I assume it's not supposed to be bolted to air. I am trying to decide whether I should drop the $1400 on new pans. In the "pros" column, I paid $900 for the car, it is a strong runner, and I like the car. In the "cons" column, this "$900" car needs $1400 floor pans, a $400 heater blower, and $600 pro-installed rubber on rear and front windshields...

In the meantime, what is the rear suspension piece precariously mounted to my rust?

P.S. The white goo is rust converter.

Attached Thumbnails

     

Only if you plan to drive it. Crush it before it crushes you!

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Beagle

Hate to say it but I agree....this one is done. HOWEVER, if you can part it out you should be able to make more than what you paid for it.

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1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)

Yup, it's a goner. Grab what you can of value and send the rest to scrap.

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I've been running her as a daily driver for over a year. Still driving it actually. Why is it a goner? With floor pans and seals I'm out about 2K, which sounds like a lot, but I don't see many 115's for sale. Would love to hear specifically why it's a lost cause...

The rot on the chassis is obviously far more extensive than just what is shown on your pics and simply replacing 2 panels will not restore it. The chassis is an integral structure highly stressed at the suspension attachment points and they could simply rip out under cornering or braking sending you headlong into an oncoming vehicle.

It is a deathtrap not just for you but for other road users as well.

Locating another car with a blown engine and installing yours may be a proposition as that is the most valuable item if in good running order. Parting it out is a long term project and selling "as is" might be a better option even if you lose on the deal.

Cut your losses now and don’t waste any more money.

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Beagle

Thanks for the reply Beagle. The rust is only in the pans. The pans from fixmyrust will eliminate 99% of the chassis rust. The only other iffy spot, which is at this point moderate surface rust, is at drivers side sub-frame mount.

Looks like u have a great parts car!

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Rust tends to get inside things where it isnt seen until it pokes through. In old cars that had steel frames you could tolerate a great deal of perforation but in modern unibody construction the chassis is what holds the car together.

WHen suspension parts begin to come unglued, you are a danger to others, no matter how much you like the car. The rust you see is only a small part of the picture, and it spreads quickly.

You must live in some state that doesnt have vehicle inspections..... you would be redtagged here.

I think you would be much wiser and happier pulling out what you like, that is the drive train. I would pull if from front to rear and look for a car with a good body. There really are a lot of them around, but you might have to leave your area to get one. Replace floor pans on a rust bucket? NEVER!

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I live in Michigan, and repair worse corrosion as normal operation.

If you don't MIG weld, find someone who does.

That area can be repaired with 14 gauge steel in a couple hours, without replacing the whole floor pan or compromising structural integrity.

Welding Video threads, auto body
Welding Video threads, auto body - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/86054-who-has-most-rust-still-drives.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tools-tricks-supplies/143078-technical-issues-associated-welding-floorboards.html

.

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I too think that some welding time should make it serviceable.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Thank's for the opinions. It's been difficult making a decision on how to go forward on this one, as advice from body shops has been varied, not to mention advice from friends, enthusiasts, etc... This forum is a godsend, and I appreciate very much every one of the responses I've had-

Rusty floors are no big deal and can be patched up no problem. In this case however, it's a rear suspension mount point that is rusted out. All it takes is one pot-hole in the road to break it free and send you head-on into a highway barrier wall. If the car has sentimental value, it can surely be repaired, but the economic reality is that you'd be better off scrapping it.

Edit: That said, I'm not familiar with this model and I don't know how (or if) that mount affects the rear suspension geometry. Is it just a stiffening brace? Or does is it an integral part of the rear suspension?

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'98 E300 turbodiesel

Maybe I mis-viewed the pictures, but it didn't seem to me as if the actual mount was rusted out, just the floor in the vicinity.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13