Background: Rear brakes replaced (rotors turned, new pads) in Jan '11. Front brakes (rotors turned, new pads, new wheel bearings) replaced March '11. All done by my well respected Benz indy.

I've never been entirely sure about how stiff (or soft) the brakes on this car should be (purchased Dec. '10 with 176,000 miles, 2nd owner, well maintained). The car stops, no problem there. But I've always felt that the braking was a bit soft (i.e. I feel like there's too much pedal travel).

Visual inspection of the MC shows no leaks. Fluid is clean. No leaks at any of the calipers or the rubber brake lines. Vacuum pump is pulling a solid 22-23 hg on my mityVac. I will say that the reservoir is wobbly... not leaking, but I can wiggle it very easily by hand.

What makes me worry is that when I get in my wife's family hauler ('07 Ford Freestyle) I damn near lock it up the first few times I hit the brakes. I assume from that I'm getting very used to a soft braking situation in my 300D.

Since I've done the visual inspection part (and I'm fairly confident that the calipers, pads and rotors are in good shape), I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do next.

Any ideas?

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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
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1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
1977 Datsun 280z
1971 Datsun 240z

YOu may have some air in the system. I suggest bleeding it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Check the caliphers, especially the rear caliphers have a tendency to rust, even more so if the rubber cap is damaged.

When were the flexible brake lines last changed?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm going to guess that the soft lines are the originals, and despite showing no signs of leakage, simply need to be replaced due to age. Any brands I should look for (or at least avoid)?

Probably will drain and flush the system at the same time.

Anything else?

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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
--------------------
1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
1977 Datsun 280z
1971 Datsun 240z

I know when I would drive my sisters mustang I would lock the tires up like crazy because I was so used to the mercs brakes. It might be able to be made better but it sounds about as normal as Ive seen.

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1984 300SD Orient Red/ Palomino
1989 560SEC
2016 Mazda 6 6 speed manual
1995 Ford F-150 reg cab 4.9 5speed manual

Things that were not done when the Brakes were done.

The Master Cylinder was not rebuilt
The Calipers were not rebuilt
and the Brake Hoses were not changed.

Just rebuilt a Master Cylinder on my Van, it had a sinking pedal when I kept pressure on the pedal before the rebuild. No exterior leaks anywhere; it had interior leaks due to the seals Rubber seals being shot.

When I had the same issue with my Mercedes I replace the Master Cylinder with a brand new one (Fenco).
While that was a big improvement the Mercedes still seems to stop slower than my other Vehicles as the other Member said about the Mustang it is the same when I drive my Van.

The Non-adjustable Push Rod that goes into the Master Cylinder on the Mercedes seem to cause a noticable Pedal Travel before the it starts to brake.

Having been used to the Rack and Pinion Powere Steering on my Volvo I was suprised at how much extra effort it takes to steer the Mercedes (this could partly be due to the amount of Caster that Mercedes uses) and the less modren Power Steering design.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am getting some "sinking Pedal" issues. Feels like there's an additional inch or so of pedal travel after coming to a complete stop.

Can't determine from the records that came with the car if the MC has ever been replaced. I'm guessing it's the original (like the soft brake lines).

Indy who did the brakes did check the calipers and at least as of a year ago, those were operating properly.

Looks like I'm going to go with at least a fluid change and new soft lines.

Any benefit to stainless steel braided lines on a W123?

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1991 300D 2.5 "Rocinante"
2002 Golf TDI "Teen Spirit"
--------------------
1984 300D
1966 Mustang I6 3sp
1985 Mazda RX-7 GSLSE
1982 Toyota Supra
1977 Datsun 280z
1971 Datsun 240z

I'd love to find some Gucci stainless steel braided brake lines for my car - if you find a source please post back! I'm quite sure you'll be able to feel the difference - even if there isn't really one - I mean just knowing you've got Gucci stainless steel down there... oooooooh I'm all a shiver!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You're not supposed to have mercedes rotors cut. They are cheap, I usually replace them after the second or third brake job.